Birria (Goat):

5 lb goat piece, preferably a hind quarter
12 lrg (abt 3 oz total) dried chiles guajillos stemmed, seeded, and deveined
6 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1/4 tsp clove
2 tsp lightly-toasted sesame seeds
3 Tbsp cider vinegar
1/4 tsp (scant) cumin seeds (or a generous 1/4 tsp ground cumin)
1/2 tsp (scant) black peppercorns (or abt 3/4 tspn ground pepper)
1 tsp salt
3/4 cup water
2 tsp sugar
1 lb fresh masa (or 1 3/4 cups masa harina mixed with 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp hot
tap water)
1 ripe, large tomato roasted or boiled, cored and peeled (or 3/4 15-oz can
tomatoes, drained)
1 tsp oregano
1/2 tsp salt
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
1 onion chopped into 1/8" dice
2 - 3 Tbsp fresh coriander (cilantro), coarsely chopped
2 limes, quartered


The meat: Trim most of the fat from the meat (it is strong tasting); if it
is a goat hind-quarter, cut into 2 pieces with a cleaver, severing it
through the joint at the top of the leg. Place in a large non-corrosive
dish.
The chile marinade: Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat. Tear
the chiles into flat pieces and toast them a few at a time, pressing them
against the hot surface with a metal spatula until they crackle and
blister, then flipping them over and pressing them again. Cover with boiling
water, weight with a plate to keep them submerged and soak 30 minutes. Roast the
garlic on the hot griddle or skillet, turning frequently, until soft inside
and blackened outside, about 15 minutes. Cool and peel. Drain the chiles and
place in a blender jar with garlic, 1/4 teaspoon cloves, 2 teaspoons lightly
toasted sesame seeds and vinegar. Pulverize the cumin and peppercorns in a
mortar or spice grinder, and add to the blender along with the salt and 3/4 cup
water. Blend until smooth, then strain through a medium-mesh sieve. Remove 1/2
cup, stir in the sugar, cover and set aside for the final glazing. Spread the
rest of the chile paste over the meat, cover and refrigerate overnight (at least
18 hours).
Slow-steaming: Preheat the oven to 325 F. Set a roasting rack into a
deep, wide kettle, a roasting pan with a rack or a stockpot. If it doesn't
sit at least 1-inch above the bottom of the pot, prop it up on custard
cups, tin cans or the like. Measure in 4 cups of water, then lay the marinated
meat on the rack and spread any remaining marinade over it.
Add water to the masa (or masa harina mixture) to make a soft dough. Roll
tennis ball-size pieces between your palms to make 3/4-inch ropes, then
press them gently all around the top edge of your pot. Set the lid in
place and press it into the masa to seal. Bake for 4 hours.
Finishing the broth: Break the seal by tapping the hardened masa with the
back of a cleaver or mallet, and take off the lid; then carefully remove
the tender meat. Take out the rack, spoon the fat off the broth, then measure
it. You need at least 1 quart; if necessary, add water to bring it to that
level. Pour the broth into a small saucepan. Puree the tomato in a blender
or food processor, add it to the broth along with the oregano, cover and
simmer over medium-low heat for 45 minutes. Season with salt.
Glazing and serving the birria: Shortly before serving, remove the bones,
large pieces of gristle and excess fat from the meat, keeping the pieces
of meat as large as possible. Set the meat on a baking sheet, brush lightly
with the reserved chile paste glaze, then bake for 10 minutes to set the
glaze.
Either present the meat on a large platter and pass the warm broth separately,
or slice the meat across the grain and serve it in deep plates, awash in the
broth. Mix the onion and fresh coriander, and pass it with the lime at the
table.
This recipe yields about 6 servings.

Suggested Wine: Triple Distilled Perfidia Plata Tequila; Sol Beer;
Sangrita

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