Chiles' kick is an old story, scientists find
Fossils show peppers were domesticated by agricultural societies in the
Americas more than 6,000 years ago.
By Karen Kaplan, Times Staff Writer
February 16, 2007


Thousands of years before ketchup, mayonnaise or Grey Poupon, there was the
red-hot chile pepper.

Researchers have found evidence that farmers in the Americas, stretching
from the Bahamas to Panama to Peru, domesticated the spicy fruit about 6,100
years ago, making it perhaps the oldest condiment in the history of cooking.

The scientists were surprised to find that those early agricultural
societies had advanced to the point of cultivating more than staples such as
maize, yams, beans and cassava.

"This is an indication that there was a complex system of agriculture and
sophisticated cuisine very early, even before pottery in some places," said
Linda Perry, a postdoctoral research fellow at the Smithsonian's National
Museum of Natural History and leader of the study, published today in the
journal Science.

Perry and other food archeologists found microscopic fossils of chile
starches on milling stones, cooking vessels and even in the dirt at seven
early settlements in the New World.

The oldest fossils were found in two village-sized settlements in
southwestern Ecuador that were first occupied about 6,100 years ago.

The fossils have a distinctive shape, resembling jelly doughnuts whose
centers were squashed on both sides. But it took several years to identify
what had left them behind.

Scientists suspected a starchy food, but none of the usual suspects - maize,
potatoes, yams or cassava - produced the telltale shape.

Then an offhand comment about peppers causing digestive problems led Perry
to consider them as a candidate.

"My first thought was, 'That's odd, things like that are usually caused by
undigested starches,' " she said. "Then, bing! The light bulb goes off."

Scientists can only guess when chiles were first domesticated from wild
capsicum plants, which originated in Bolivia. Perry says she suspects that
peppers are as old as maize - domesticated 9,000 years ago - because both
plants were found at every site the scientists examined.

It's likely that chiles were the first condiments to be domesticated, even
though agriculture developed earlier in the Middle East than in the
Americas, said Greg Anderson, an evolutionary botanist at the University of
Connecticut, who was not involved in the study. Their bright color and
desirability among birds would have made them stand out to humans, he said.

"Given how popular it is to modern humans, why wouldn't it have been just as
popular to ancient humans who were trying to make their diet a little more
interesting?" Perry said.

Chiles are rich in vitamin C, so ancient people who ate them would have
gained a nutritional advantage over those who didn't, said Scott Raymond, a
University of Calgary archeologist and coauthor of the study. Chiles also
might have contributed to humans' nutrition by helping them consume more of
their staple foods.

Chiles are "an excellent disguiser," he said. "If something's not tasting
quite right, you can always throw a few chiles in the pot."