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Gnocchi à la Parisienne from Thomas Keller's Bouchon - A Report with recipe (Longish)
I gifted my sister with this cookbook last Christmas and everything that I
have made from it has turned out fabulously. I honestly can't seem to screw up these recipes (probably because the directions are very detailed). I've had similar results with his tonier cookbook "The French Laundry Cookbook". He just seems to be one of the more generous famous chef/authors who really wants to let you replicate great results at home. I made these gnocchi, of the no potato variety, for the day after Thanksgiving. My sister nixed my plan to make them and a Tarte Tatin for Thanksgiving as there was too much food already (she was right) but I was feeling a little culinary adventure deprived so I made the Parisian style gnocchi the following day. I also made a terrific tortilla soup using stock made from the leftover turkey carcass, shredded leftover turkey and an avocado salsa (recipe will probably be posted separately but it was based on one on Epicurious and is easily found). Coincidentally, Epicurious had the entire recipe from "Bouchon" for the herb gnocchi in it's data base so I didn't have to go through the effort (no small task) of re-typing it. I had to make some substitutions. The recipe calls for Comte or Emmenthaller cheese. This is readily available in Chicago where I live but not available in the small town where my family lives. I substituted reggiano parmesan. This was a very happy substitution! Keller's recipe calls for chervil, chives, parsley and tarragon. I used chives, parsley, tarragon, basil and mint. To my palate there was no discernable diminution in flavor. This makes a light and truly ethereal gnocchi. These are already on the menu for Christmas by popular demand. After poaching them I refrigerated them as directed and sauteed in browned butter with sage, lemon and white wine. These require piping from a pastry bag into a pot of simmering salted water. This was a bit awkward at first so I impressed my niece to help. She squeezed the pastry bag while I cut the dough and let it drop into the water. Eventually I was able to manage it on my own. This is a recipe where having every ingredient at hand and measured out is important. The recipe says that this makes 240 gnocchi or 8 servings. This assumes an army of gluttons. These are quite rich and I have a sizeable bag in my freezer which will probably not last through the night ;-). Enjoy! Kate <begin cut and paste from Epicurious> Gnocchi à la Parisienne Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Thomas Keller's Bouchon. The publisher has given us special permission to display this recipe in the Epicurious database until 6/17/2005. If you'd like to refer to it beyond that date, please print out a copy. Parisienne gnocchi are made from pte à choux, a versatile dough made by cooking flour and water together until the flour cooks, after which eggs are stirred in. It can then be piped into various shapes and baked for profiteroles and éclairs for dessert, or savory preparations such as gougères, or gently poached in water as gnocchi. Parisienne gnocchi are tasty, satisfying morsels that, like Italian gnocchi or any pasta, can be paired with all kinds of ingredients and transformed into countless dishes. They're excellent simply sautéed in butter. They can be additionally flavored with fines herbes, mustard, and cheese. At Bouchon, we don't serve much pasta or rice, so we use gnocchi as an interesting base for a number of our vegetarian dishes. They're not a classic bistro food, but the technique is a French one, dating back to before Escoffier. This recipe will make about 240 gnocchi, double what you'll need for the Gnocchi with Mushrooms and Butternut Squash. Once they've been poached, gnocchi can be frozen for a month to six weeks. 1 1/2 cups water 12 tablespoons (6 ounces) unsalted butter 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon chopped chervil 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon 1 cup loosely packed shredded Comté or Emmentaler cheese 5 to 6 large eggs Set up a heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment. Have all the ingredients ready before you begin cooking. Combine the water, butter, and the 1 teaspoon salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the flour all at once, and stir rapidly with a stiff heatproof or wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean, with no dough sticking to it. The dough should be glossy and smooth but still moist. Enough moisture must evaporate from the dough to allow it to absorb more fat when the eggs are added: Continue to stir for about 5 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to prevent the dough from coloring. A thin coating will form on the bottom and sides of the pan. When enough moisture has evaporated, steam will rise from the dough and the aroma of cooked flour will be noticeable. Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl. Add the mustard, herbs, and the 1 tablespoon salt. Mix for a few seconds to incorporate the ingredients and release some of the heat, then add the cheese. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add 3 eggs, one at a time, beating until each egg is completely incorporated before adding the next one. Increase the speed to medium and add another 2 eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each one. Turn off the machine. Lift some of the dough on a rubber spatula, then turn the spatula to let it run off: It should move down the spatula very slowly; if it doesn't move at all or is very dry and just falls off in a clump, beat in the additional egg. Place the dough in a large pastry bag fitted with a 5/8-inch plain tip and let it rest for about 30 minutes at room temperature. (If you have only a small pastry bag, fill it with half the dough two times.) Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a simmer. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Line a second baking sheet with parchment paper. Because this recipe makes such a large quantity of gnocchi, your arm may get tired: An easy way to pipe the gnocchi is to place a large inverted pot, canister, or other container that is slightly higher than the pot on the right side of the pot (left side if you are left-handed) and set the filled pastry bag on it so that the tip extends over the side and the container serves as a resting place for the bag. Twist the end of the pastry bag to push the dough into the tip. (From time to time, as the bag empties, you will need to twist the end again.) As you squeeze the back of the bag with your right hand, hold a small knife in your left hand and cut off 1-inch lengths of dough, allowing the gnocchi to drop into the pot. Pipe about 24 gnocchi per batch. First, the gnocchi will sink in the pot. Keep the water temperature hot, but do not boil. Once the gnocchi float to the top, poach them for another 1 to 2 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon or skimmer and drain on the paper towel-lined baking sheet. Taste one to test the timing; it may still seem slightly undercooked in the center, but it will be cooked again. Repeat with the remaining dough. When all the gnocchi have drained, place them in a single layer on the parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to a day. Or, for longer storage, place the baking sheet in the freezer. Once the gnocchi have frozen solid, remove them from the baking sheet and place in a freezer bag in the freezer. Before using frozen gnocchi, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet and defrost in the refrigerator for several hours. Makes about 240 gnocchi; 8 servings. Bouchon 2004 by Thomas Keller Artisan |
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