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Help with cutting board
I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a cutting
board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden feet. About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches wide that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. It is wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and I want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to refinish it? And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? Thanking you in advance Amber in central Illinois |
Help with cutting board
"Amberinauburn" > wrote in message
... > I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a cutting > board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 > inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden feet. > About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches wide > that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. It is > wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and I > want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to > refinish it? And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and > preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? > Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? > > Thanking you in advance > Amber in central Illinois > Sounds like a great deal. It may need more than sanding. I'd look for a local woodwoorking shop - maybe even at a high school - and ask them to use a planer to take 1/8 inch off, or whatever is needed. Then a good rub with mineral oil (from the drug store) and you are ready to go. -- Peter Aitken Remove the crap from my email address before using. |
Help with cutting board
Amberinauburn wrote:
> I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a cu= tting > board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, = 16 > inches wide, and is almost 1-=BD inches thick and sits on 4 little wood= en feet. > About =BD inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inch= es wide > that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end= =2E It is > wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked a= nd I > want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try t= o > refinish it? And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and > preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? > Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? Do not "refinish" it. You can sand it down to get rid of old marks and st= ains, and then rub it with some mineral oil. |
Help with cutting board
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Help with cutting board
On Sat, 08 May 2004 16:37:46 GMT, "Peter Aitken"
> wrote: >"Amberinauburn" > wrote in message ... >> I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a >cutting >> board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 >> inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden >feet. >> About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches >wide >> that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. >It is >> wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and >I >> want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to >> refinish it? And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and >> preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? >> Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? >> >> Thanking you in advance >> Amber in central Illinois >> > >Sounds like a great deal. It may need more than sanding. I'd look for a >local woodwoorking shop - maybe even at a high school - and ask them to use >a planer to take 1/8 inch off, or whatever is needed. Then a good rub with >mineral oil (from the drug store) and you are ready to go. The planer idea may have two problems: It would likely remove the "legs" and it would almost certainly render the groove useless. Those things might not matter, and, indeed, putting it through a planer (if done properly) would make it flat as new. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Help with cutting board
Kenneth wrote:
> On Sat, 08 May 2004 16:37:46 GMT, "Peter Aitken" > > wrote: > > >>"Amberinauburn" > wrote in message ... >> >>>I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a >> >>cutting >> >>>board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 >>>inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden >> >>feet. >> >>>About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches >> >>wide >> >>>that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. >> >>It is >> >>>wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and >> >>I >> >>>want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to >>>refinish it? And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and >>>preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? >>>Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? >>> >>>Thanking you in advance >>>Amber in central Illinois >>> >> >>Sounds like a great deal. It may need more than sanding. I'd look for a >>local woodwoorking shop - maybe even at a high school - and ask them to use >>a planer to take 1/8 inch off, or whatever is needed. Then a good rub with >>mineral oil (from the drug store) and you are ready to go. > > > The planer idea may have two problems: > > It would likely remove the "legs" and it would almost certainly render > the groove useless. > > Those things might not matter, and, indeed, putting it through a > planer (if done properly) would make it flat as new. > > All the best, > So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal. jim |
Help with cutting board
>So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal.
> >jim the jerk And have a $4 yard sale cutting board that needed nothing but a good douche and a dime's worth of mineral oil end up costing $104. Moron. ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- ********* "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." Sheldon ```````````` |
Help with cutting board
PENMART01 wrote:
>>So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal. >> >>jim the jerk > > > And have a $4 yard sale cutting board that needed nothing but a good douche and > a dime's worth of mineral oil end up costing $104. Moron. > > > ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- > ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- > ********* > "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." > Sheldon > ```````````` Only to idiots like you. It was suggested that it be taken to someone local. A lot of high schools and/or community colleges teach woodworking and I'll bet it costs maybe $5. But that type of thinking is out of your league bitch. jim |
Help with cutting board
Amberinauburn wrote:
> I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a cutting > board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 > inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden feet. > About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches wide > that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. It is > wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and I > want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to > refinish it? Nothing wrong with the marks. You are going to create more of them yourself. Wash it with soap and water. Dry it well then rub oil on it. A little olive oil works fine. Keep treating it with oil every few days as long as it takes up the oil. Once it no longer takes up oil, then rub some oil on it once every two or three months or whenever it starts to look dry. After the initial cleaning with soap and water, just rinse it with water after subsequent use. I store my cutting boards on their sides so that I don't have to dry them and have no problem with warping. And if so with what? I intend to use this for cutting and > preparing food so what is food safe that I can use? I have a plastic cutting board that I generally use to cut meat but if I do use the wooden cutting board for that purpose, I wash it with soap and water after using it for that purpose. You can cut anything you want on the cutting board, just be careful with raw meat. If raw meat has bacteria on it and leaves bacteria on the cutting board, and then you cut vegetables on it that you do not intend to cook, then that would be unsafe. > Also I paid $4.00 for it. Good deal or did I get taken? You got a good deal > > Thanking you in advance > Amber in central Illinois > |
Help with cutting board
>Jim "The Jerk" Lane
> >PENMART01 wrote: > >>Jim "The Jerk" Lane >>>So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal. >>> >>>jim the jerk >> >> >> And have a $4 yard sale cutting board that needed nothing but a good douche >> and a dime's worth of mineral oil end up costing $104... Moron. > > > that type of thinking is out of your league. > >jim the jerk You bet... yours is no kind of thinking... Moron. ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- ********* "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." Sheldon ```````````` |
Help with cutting board
> Cookie Cutter writes:
> >> Amberinauburn wrote: >> >> I have a couple of questions here so please bear with me. I bought a >cutting >> board this morning at a yard/ garage sale. It is about 20 inches long, 16 >> inches wide, and is almost 1-½ inches thick and sits on 4 little wooden >feet. >> About ½ inch in from the side on the top it has a groove about 2 inches >wide >> that goes all the way around the top. And it says FARBERWARE on one end. It >is >> wooden and has been well used, the finish on the top is deeply marked and I >> want to know what I need to do with it. Should I sand it down and try to >> refinish it? > >Nothing wrong with the marks. You are going to create more of them >yourself. Wash it with soap and water. Dry it well then rub oil on it. Absolutely, that's all it needs... not any steenk'n planing n' re-groov'n. The OP bought it 'cause it was in good shape, iffn it was all hacked up no one would pay 4¢ for it let alone $4. The reason it was put up at a tag sale is most likely it was rarely used, if ever... that size board weighs a good 10 pounds, not your everyday kitchen implement. I have a board those exact dimensions (with grooves that's a *carving* board, not a "cutting" board), mine's made by John Boos, probably who made that board with the Farberware label. I use mine 'maybe' once a year, if I prepare a big Holiday roast, otherwise it sits in the pantry... it's much too heavy and cumbersome for everyday use, and the groove makes it highly impracticable... and the friggin thing barely fits in the sink. ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- ********* "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." Sheldon ```````````` |
Help with cutting board
On Sun, 09 May 2004 02:02:41 GMT, Cookie Cutter > wrote:
> A little olive oil works fine. Keep treating it with oil every few >days as long as it takes up the oil. Once it no longer takes up oil, >then rub some oil on it once every two or three months or whenever it >starts to look dry. Howdy, The process suggested above is just begging for a rancid cutting board. I hope that the OP follows the good advice already offered: Use mineral oil, and only a bit of it is needed. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Help with cutting board
JimLane > wrote:
>PENMART01 wrote: > >>>So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal. >>> >>>jim the jerk Jim the Jerk, meet Sheldon the Shithead. >> And have a $4 yard sale cutting board that needed nothing but a good >douche and >> a dime's worth of mineral oil end up costing $104. Moron. That's how you ended up costing $0.44, Shel. >Only to idiots like you. It was suggested that it be taken to someone >local. A lot of high schools and/or community colleges teach woodworking >and I'll bet it costs maybe $5. But that type of thinking is out of your >league bitch. I'd take off the feet (who needs 'em?), sand the top by hand to remove the existing knife marks, wipe it all over with cutting board oil (food grade mineral oil), toss it in the oven at 200F for a few minutes to make sure it's sterile, wipe off any excess oil with a paper towel, and prepare to develop pride in ownership from then onward. --Blair "We could screw the feet on Sheldon's head and then it wouldn't slip on the toilet seat." |
Help with cutting board
PENMART01 wrote:
>>Jim "The Jerk" Lane >> >>PENMART01 wrote: >> >> >>>Jim "The Jerk" Lane >>> >>>>So have them run a router and re-groove it after planing. No big deal. >>>> >>>>jim the jerk >>> >>> >>>And have a $4 yard sale cutting board that needed nothing but a good douche >>>and a dime's worth of mineral oil end up costing $104... Moron. >> >> >>that type of thinking is out of your league. >> >>jim the jerk > > > You bet... yours is no kind of thinking... Moron. > > > ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- > ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- > ********* > "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." > Sheldon > ```````````` Obviously better than yours, mentalmidget. Never crossed your mind while penning your reply, did it? Pity. Just what school socially passed you? jim jim |
Help with cutting board
On Sun, 09 May 2004 22:47:11 GMT, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
> toss it >in the oven at 200F for a few minutes to make sure it's >sterile Hi Blair, There are thermosetting glues that are often used to assemble things like cutting boards. It is quite likely that with your suggested sterilizing technique the OP will end up with a pile of sticks... All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Help with cutting board
Kenneth wrote:
> On Sun, 09 May 2004 02:02:41 GMT, Cookie Cutter > wrote: > > >>A little olive oil works fine. Keep treating it with oil every few >>days as long as it takes up the oil. Once it no longer takes up oil, >>then rub some oil on it once every two or three months or whenever it >>starts to look dry. > > > Howdy, > > The process suggested above is just begging for a rancid cutting > board. > > I hope that the OP follows the good advice already offered: Use > mineral oil, and only a bit of it is needed. > > All the best, > I have never had a problem. Anyone following the directions I gave will not have any problems either. |
Help with cutting board
"Cookie Cutter" > wrote in message
... > Kenneth wrote: > > > On Sun, 09 May 2004 02:02:41 GMT, Cookie Cutter > wrote: > > > > > >>A little olive oil works fine. Keep treating it with oil every few > >>days as long as it takes up the oil. Once it no longer takes up oil, > >>then rub some oil on it once every two or three months or whenever it > >>starts to look dry. > > > > > > Howdy, > > > > The process suggested above is just begging for a rancid cutting > > board. > > > > I hope that the OP follows the good advice already offered: Use > > mineral oil, and only a bit of it is needed. > > > > All the best, > > > > I have never had a problem. Anyone following the directions I gave will > not have any problems either. Olive oil will go rancid - there's no getting around it. Just because you did not notice it does not mean it did not happen.nMineral oil is the accepted and preferred method. -- Peter Aitken Remove the crap from my email address before using. |
Help with cutting board
Peter Aitken wrote:
> "Cookie Cutter" > wrote in message > ... > >>Kenneth wrote: >> >>>On Sun, 09 May 2004 02:02:41 GMT, Cookie Cutter > wrote: >>> >>>>A little olive oil works fine. Keep treating it with oil every few >>>>days as long as it takes up the oil. Once it no longer takes up oil, >>>>then rub some oil on it once every two or three months or whenever it >>>>starts to look dry. >>> >>>Howdy, >>> >>>The process suggested above is just begging for a rancid cutting >>>board. >>> >>>I hope that the OP follows the good advice already offered: Use >>>mineral oil, and only a bit of it is needed. >>> >>>All the best, >>> >>I have never had a problem. Anyone following the directions I gave will >>not have any problems either. > > Olive oil will go rancid - there's no getting around it. Just because you > did not notice it does not mean it did not happen. Mineral oil is the > accepted and preferred method. I've heard this for the last 30 years and for the last 30 years, I've used any oil that was at hand including olive, canola, soy, peanut, walnut or whatever. I wash my boards after using them and re-oil as needed (about 3 times a year). They smell clean. They're not sticky, they're not smelly. They're just fine. Pastorio |
Help with cutting board
> Peter Aitken wrote: > SNIPAGE >> Olive oil will go rancid - there's no getting around it. Just because you >> did not notice it does not mean it did not happen. Mineral oil is the >> accepted and preferred method. > > Bob (this one) wrote: > I've heard this for the last 30 years and for the last 30 years, I've > used any oil that was at hand including olive, canola, soy, peanut, > walnut or whatever. I wash my boards after using them and re-oil as > needed (about 3 times a year). They smell clean. They're not sticky, > they're not smelly. They're just fine. > > Pastorio > IMO it's the washing and cleaning the keep them going, along with an occasional oiling, not the oil. Keep them clean, and oil them with any common cooking oil, or mineral oil, and they'll last. Wooden knife handles too. Dave S |
Help with cutting board
> Peter Aitken wrote: > SNIPAGE >> Olive oil will go rancid - there's no getting around it. Just because you >> did not notice it does not mean it did not happen. Mineral oil is the >> accepted and preferred method. > > Bob (this one) wrote: > I've heard this for the last 30 years and for the last 30 years, I've > used any oil that was at hand including olive, canola, soy, peanut, > walnut or whatever. I wash my boards after using them and re-oil as > needed (about 3 times a year). They smell clean. They're not sticky, > they're not smelly. They're just fine. > > Pastorio > IMO it's the washing and cleaning the keep them going, along with an occasional oiling, not the oil. Keep them clean, and oil them with any common cooking oil, or mineral oil, and they'll last. Wooden knife handles too. Dave S |
Help with cutting board
>IMO it's the washing and cleaning the keep them going,
>along with an occasional oiling, not the oil. >Keep them clean, and oil them with any common cooking oil, >or mineral oil, and they'll last. Wooden knife handles too. > >Dave S It's not so much the oil that protects wooden kitchen implements. A good coating of beeswax blended with a small amount of mineral oil will protect wooden implements and prolong their usefulness. I not only coat cutting boards with this mixture I also use it on wooden bowls and wooden spoons. Beeswax is readily available and perfectly safe. ---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =--- ---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =--- ********* "Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation." Sheldon ```````````` |
Help with cutting board
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