https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/27/w...staurants.html

By WILLIAM GRIMES
JUNE 27, 2017

First third or so:


Alain Senderens, one of the most adventurous of the founding fathers of nouvelle cuisine, who made LArchestrate and Lucas Carton in Paris two of the worlds most celebrated restaurants, died on Sunday at his home in St.-Setiers, a village in south-central France. He was 77.

Gilles Pudlowski, a food critic and guide writer, announced the death to Agence France-Presse, which did not report the cause.

Like his fellow culinary explorers Michel Guérard, Paul Bocuse and Pierre Troisgros, Mr. Senderens (pronounced sand-RAHNS) envisioned a more modern version of French cuisine, less reliant on buttery sauces, more international in spirit and more insistent on high-quality, fresh ingredients.

€œI, like other chefs, didnt want to do traditional cuisine anymore,€� he told The Unesco Courier in 2001.

He put his ideas into practice at LArchestrate, a seven-table restaurant that he opened in 1968, naming it after Archestratus, a gastronome of Greek antiquity. Dishes like lobster with white peaches and cooked oysters with leeks enchanted critics and earned him a Michelin star in his first year. In 1978, Michelin awarded him three stars.

His experiments could entice and, on occasion, shock. Baked lobster in vanilla sauce €” €œa triumph of taste over logic,€� the restaurant critic Craig Claiborne called the dish in The New York Times €” was regarded as scandalous when introduced in 1981. So was the use of soy sauce in a beurre blanc, an idea inspired by a trip to Asia in 1978.

Two years after taking over the kitchen at the venerable Lucas Carton in 1985, Mr. Senderens introduced menus that suggested wines by the glass to accompany each dish, an innovation that soon became standard at restaurants around the world. Ignoring the rule that cheeses demand a red wine, he appalled some critics by suggesting a white Vouvray to go with a goat cheese from Touraine. Adding insult to injury, he flippantly remarked, €œNine times out of 10, a red wine doesnt work at all.€�...


https://www.google.com/#q=Alain+Senderens++77
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