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Calves Foot Jelly
On Sunday, 22 February 2015 23:13:11 UTC, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> I've had this in my recipe file, if anyone is interested: > > http://www.jewishsf.com/bk970103/cook.htm > > Calves foot jelly, anyone? On-the-hoof route to aspic > > By Zillah Bahar I want to thank my readers who went to the trouble of > educating me about calves foot jelly over the last month. Some of you > really got into a big hoof over the matter at hand. Martin Ross' query > touched off a wave of nostalgia. I'd like to share one of the most > interesting and informative pieces of correspondence I received > regarding calves foot jelly. This one is from Shirley Ginzburg, who > describes herself as a "faithful reader," my favorite kind. Ginzburg > writes, in part: "I wanted to put in `my two cents' on the subject of > p'cha (or as your correspondent Martin Ross spelled it, pitzeh). "If > you verbalize his phonetics, you will hear it as I spelled it above, > or as `petchah', which is how you will find it in Jewish cookbooks > published in America during the 1920s through '40s. "He recalls > chicken legs (more precisely the feet) were used to create the > calcium-rich broth which when chilled, gelatinized like an aspic. The > eggs were most likely boiled then floated in the aspic (same as we use > unflavored gelatin today). When the cold dish was unmolded and sliced, > the garlicky aspic with cooked egg and bits of boiled meat made a > lovely appetizer. "The recipes I have seen call for calves feet to > create the aspic. "Today we have difficulty getting the soft young > veal bones which when boiled down, give a sturdy aspic. Oh well. Use > chicken feet. Or commercial gelatin packets."Truth to tell, my > Russian-born grandmother made this dish once in awhile, and I know my > mom did rarely. We kids didn't care for it much, and the dish was > something of a nuisance to make. "To our forbears, it was a fine > source of calcium/protein with a meat-garlic flavor. A cheap way to > feel one had `meat at the meal' when other cuts were too costly. "I've > included a recipe for this traditional Jewish dish from "The New > Complete International Jewish Cookbook" by Evelyn Rose. She notes that > each community of European Jews has a different name for calves foot > jelly: Fusnogge (Yiddish), Ptchia (Russian), Sulze (German)."It is a > perfect example," writes Rose, "of the ability of the Jewish cook to > make a specialty dish from humble ingredients. > > "CALVES FOOT JELLY" > Serves 6-8 > > 2 calves feet, with cold water to cover them > 1 large onion, peeled > 1 fat clove garlic, peeled > 3 bay leaves > 1 level tsp. black peppercorns > 2 level tsp. salt > 2 Tbs. lemon juice (or cider vinegar, if preferred) > 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced > Garnish:lemon quarters > tomato > watercress > > It's easiest to use an oval, heat-proof casserole in which the cleaned > feet can be laid without having to saw them up. Put in the feet, cover > with cold water and bring to a boil on top of the stove. Simmer for 10 > minutes, then, using a wet spoon, skim off the froth. Add the onion, > garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns and salt. Cover and simmer gently for > a further hour, either on top of the stove or in the oven. Skim once > more, partially cover, and continue to simmer for a further 2-1/2 to 3 > hours, or until the gristle and meat come away from the bone.Lift out > the bones and any meat attached to them and set aside. Strain the > liquid into a bowl, then return to the washed pan, together with the > lemon juice and the meat, cut into 3/8-inch cubes. Bring once more to > the boil, them remove from heat. To set the jelly: Rose uses a French > paté dish, 9 by 5 by 3 inches, but a loaf tin of similar size is just > as good, particularly if you wish to turn it out for slicing. Pour > half the liquid into the dish, and leave in the refrigerator until it > begins to set. Arrange a layer of the sliced hard-boiled egg on top, > and spoon over the remaining mixture, including the meat. Chill > overnight in the refrigerator until firm. Slices can be cut from the > dish, or the jelly can be turned out on a platter and decorated with > water cress, tomatoes and lemon wedges. > > Zillah Bahar is an East Bay editor and food writer. Her columns > alternate with those of San Francisco food writer Betty Newman. > Readers are welcome to send kosher recipes, cooking tips and story > ideas to Bahar or Newman, c/o the Bulletin. Bahar also can be reached > at (510) 237-5441 or at her Internet address: anyone else call it feace? |
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