[Kswck]

For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
and separating.

In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?

[Brooklyn1]

On Sat, 28 Apr 2012 15:24:48 -0400, "Kswck" >
wrote:

>For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
>and separating.
>
>In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?

Really need a picture... Most times simple gluing will make the
repair, but sometimes it needs to be doweled too. Sometimes an old
wooden cutting board isn't worth repairing, better to replace.

[Chemo the Clown[_2_]]

On Apr 28, 12:24*pm, "Kswck" > wrote:
> For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> and separating.
>
> In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?

We really need to know the reasons.

[George M. Middius[_2_]]

Chemo the Clown wrote:

> > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > and separating.

> We really need to know the reasons.

Really. How else can we make fun of him?

[George M. Middius[_2_]]

Kswck wrote:

> For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> and separating.
>
> In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?

At a minimum, you'll need need glue and bar clamps. If the crack also
left splinters, you'll need to resurface the pieces, and then gluing
will involve biscuits or dowels.

Check out the prices of bamboo cutting boards.

[dsi1[_17_]]

On Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:24:48 AM UTC-10, Kswck wrote:
> For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> and separating.
>
> In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?

just put some glue in the crack and clamp it together. most of your time should be spent in getting your clamping setup. use a waterproof glue. gorilla glue would be a good choice. if it's an oily wood like rosewood, you'll probably need professional advice. good luck ¡

[Chemo the Clown[_2_]]

On Apr 28, 1:44*pm, George M. Middius > wrote:
> Chemo the Clown wrote:
> > > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > > and separating.
> > We really need to know the reasons.
>
> Really. How else can we make fun of him?

Me thinks he might have gotten hit over the head with it.

[Chemo the Clown[_2_]]

On Apr 28, 2:46*pm, Sqwertz > wrote:
> On Sat, 28 Apr 2012 15:24:48 -0400, Kswck wrote:
> > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > and separating.
>
> > In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?
>
> It probably can't be salvaged except by cutting it into a smaller
> board. If you describe or show a picture of it, I think Ed P. would
> probably be the best expert here on that subject.
>
> Broken cutting boards are dangerous for a couple reasons.
>
> -sw

Christ! We don't know the size, thickness or shape. So no one can give
an educated guess.

[isw]

In article
<23128641.497.1335647825217.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@yndr30>,
dsi1 > wrote:

> On Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:24:48 AM UTC-10, Kswck wrote:
> > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > and separating.
> >
> > In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?
>
> just put some glue in the crack and clamp it together. most of your time
> should be spent in getting your clamping setup. use a waterproof glue.
> gorilla glue would be a good choice. if it's an oily wood like rosewood,
> you'll probably need professional advice. good luck ¡

That probably won't work -- the forces that popped it apart in the first
place (which were stronger than the wood) are also probably stronger
than any wood-glue bond you can provide.

The point to remember is that the wood *wants* that crack to be there --
trying to prove to the wood that you have some glue that is stronger
than it is will probably fail. You need to let the crack exist.

Here's what I've done, with success:

With a sharp saw, widen the crack all the way to the end and a little
bit beyond (at the very thinnest end, you won't be able to force any
adhesive in there, and that's where you need it most). Make sure you
shave off any parts of the sides of the crack that might've been there
for a while, because they are probably contaminated with grease or other
stuff that glue won't stick to. Save all the sawdust.

Mix the sawdust (plus more if needed -- just sand the bottom surface
with a coarse grit; if sand particles get in with the wood powder, that
won't hurt a thing) with some good epoxy (*not* the "five-minute" kind)
to make a fairly thick paste -- considerably more wood dust than epoxy
is what you want). Using a popsicle stick or something similar, pack the
epoxy mix into the crack. Make sure it's completely full with no
bubbles. Overfilling is what you want. Using a slow-set epoxy gives you
all the time you need to get it right.

When it's totally hard (next day), sand smooth (if you were careful when
you filled the crack, this won't be too difficult). Start by scraping
with a knife you don't care about, to speed things up.

And that's it. My favorite cutting board has been fine for nearly ten
years since I fixed a crack this way.

Isaac

[dsi1[_17_]]

On Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:31:20 PM UTC-10, isw wrote:
> In article
> <23128641.497.1335647825217.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@yndr30>,
> dsi1 > wrote:
>
> > On Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:24:48 AM UTC-10, Kswck wrote:
> > > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > > and separating.
> > >
> > > In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?
> >
> > just put some glue in the crack and clamp it together. most of your time
> > should be spent in getting your clamping setup. use a waterproof glue.
> > gorilla glue would be a good choice. if it's an oily wood like rosewood,
> > you'll probably need professional advice. good luck ¡
>
> That probably won't work -- the forces that popped it apart in the first
> place (which were stronger than the wood) are also probably stronger
> than any wood-glue bond you can provide.

I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress. I guess we'll never know...


>
> The point to remember is that the wood *wants* that crack to be there --
> trying to prove to the wood that you have some glue that is stronger
> than it is will probably fail. You need to let the crack exist.
>
> Here's what I've done, with success:
>
> With a sharp saw, widen the crack all the way to the end and a little
> bit beyond (at the very thinnest end, you won't be able to force any
> adhesive in there, and that's where you need it most). Make sure you
> shave off any parts of the sides of the crack that might've been there
> for a while, because they are probably contaminated with grease or other
> stuff that glue won't stick to. Save all the sawdust.
>
> Mix the sawdust (plus more if needed -- just sand the bottom surface
> with a coarse grit; if sand particles get in with the wood powder, that
> won't hurt a thing) with some good epoxy (*not* the "five-minute" kind)
> to make a fairly thick paste -- considerably more wood dust than epoxy
> is what you want). Using a popsicle stick or something similar, pack the
> epoxy mix into the crack. Make sure it's completely full with no
> bubbles. Overfilling is what you want. Using a slow-set epoxy gives you
> all the time you need to get it right.
>
> When it's totally hard (next day), sand smooth (if you were careful when
> you filled the crack, this won't be too difficult). Start by scraping
> with a knife you don't care about, to speed things up.
>
> And that's it. My favorite cutting board has been fine for nearly ten
> years since I fixed a crack this way.
>
> Isaac

[Kswck]

Nice to see this group is just as hostile as it has been in the past.

"Chemo the Clown" wrote in message
...

On Apr 28, 1:44 pm, George M. Middius > wrote:
> Chemo the Clown wrote:
> > > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is
> > > cracked
> > > and separating.
> > We really need to know the reasons.
>
> Really. How else can we make fun of him?

Me thinks he might have gotten hit over the head with it.

[Gary]

Kswck wrote:
>
> Nice to see this group is just as hostile as it has been in the past.

It seems to work! :-D

[George M. Middius[_2_]]

Gary wrote:

> > Nice to see this group is just as hostile as it has been in the past.
>
> It seems to work! :-D

It's milder than most Usenet groups.

[Ema Nymton]

On 4/29/2012 1:39 AM, dsi1 wrote:

> I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated
> board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and
> the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress.
> I guess we'll never know...

We inherited a cutting board from Aunt Jane, that had been cracked in
the past. Not sure how it cracked, but it was repaired and it works
fine. I wish I knew what product she used on it.

Becca

[James Silverton[_3_]]

On 4/29/2012 11:52 AM, Ema Nymton wrote:
> On 4/29/2012 1:39 AM, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated
>> board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and
> > the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress.
> > I guess we'll never know...
>
> We inherited a cutting board from Aunt Jane, that had been cracked in
> the past. Not sure how it cracked, but it was repaired and it works
> fine. I wish I knew what product she used on it.
>
> Becca
Possibly high strength, slow setting epoxy glue. I had a board that
split in two and, after carefully drying it, I used the epoxy and the
board lasted at least six more years. (I don't know if the original glue
was that.)

--
Jim Silverton (Potomac, MD)

Extraneous "not" in Reply To.

[dsi1[_15_]]

On 4/29/2012 5:52 AM, Ema Nymton wrote:
> On 4/29/2012 1:39 AM, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated
>> board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and
> > the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress.
> > I guess we'll never know...
>
> We inherited a cutting board from Aunt Jane, that had been cracked in
> the past. Not sure how it cracked, but it was repaired and it works
> fine. I wish I knew what product she used on it.
>
> Becca

Getting the right glue for the job is tricky sometimes. I'd choose a
glue that was flexible and waterproof. What I need is a good glue for
fingernails. My nails keep splitting. It's a crying shame. That's the
breaks.

[Brooklyn1]

Ema Nymton wrote:
>dsi1 wrote:
>
>> I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated
>> board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and
> > the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress.
> > I guess we'll never know...
>
>We inherited a cutting board from Aunt Jane, that had been cracked in
>the past. Not sure how it cracked, but it was repaired and it works
>fine. I wish I knew what product she used on it.
>
>Becca

There are several brands of waterproof carpenter's glue sold at any
hardware store, any would be appropriate. My personal favorite for
home use is Gorilla Glue... hardly a week passes I don't use it for
something, recently repaired a chip in my favorite coffee mug,
survives the dishwasher... buy a small size (2 oz) as it has only
about a two year shelf life. About five years ago I used Gorilla Glue
to repair a cracked board on my wood deck, has survived all sorts of
brutal/inclement weather.

[James Silverton[_3_]]

On 4/29/2012 11:38 PM, isw wrote:
> In >,
> > wrote:
>
>> On 4/29/2012 5:52 AM, Ema Nymton wrote:
>>> On 4/29/2012 1:39 AM, dsi1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think you're right but I'm guessing that he's got a thick laminated
>>>> board that failed along a glue joint. Maybe the board was dropped and
>>> > the crack did not spontaneously appear due to internal stress.
>>> > I guess we'll never know...
>>>
>>> We inherited a cutting board from Aunt Jane, that had been cracked in
>>> the past. Not sure how it cracked, but it was repaired and it works
>>> fine. I wish I knew what product she used on it.
>>>
>>> Becca
>>
>> Getting the right glue for the job is tricky sometimes. I'd choose a
>> glue that was flexible and waterproof. What I need is a good glue for
>> fingernails. My nails keep splitting. It's a crying shame. That's the
>> breaks.
>
> Try cyanoacrylate ("Superglue"). Drip a little (a *very* little) into
> the crack, and then, using a piece of release paper (the slick stuff
> that adhesive labels come on) or wax paper, *quickly* press the broken
> edges together. File smooth.
>
> I also use Superglue to close annoying cuts on my fingers -- stings a
> bit, but works great to keep you from bleeding all over your dinner or
> your woodworking project.
>

Super glue has been used for wound repair since medics in Viet Nam
discovered that use. I wonder how safe it is? However, an expensive
version marketed for medical use did not sell well and I haven't seen it
for a year or so.

--
Jim Silverton (Potomac, MD)

Extraneous "not" in Reply To.

[dsi1[_15_]]

On 4/29/2012 5:38 PM, isw wrote:

> Try cyanoacrylate ("Superglue"). Drip a little (a *very* little) into
> the crack, and then, using a piece of release paper (the slick stuff
> that adhesive labels come on) or wax paper, *quickly* press the broken
> edges together. File smooth.

CA is probably the best option. I never could get it to work on
fingernails. I haven't found a way to get the bond to last. There's
probably a way to do it by proper prepping. I used to use CA as my main
adhesive but these days I use UV cured glues. I haven't bought CA in
about 5 years. The guy at the hobby shop probably wonders what happened
to me. :-)

>
> I also use Superglue to close annoying cuts on my fingers -- stings a
> bit, but works great to keep you from bleeding all over your dinner or
> your woodworking project.
>
> Isaac

[George M. Middius[_2_]]

dsi1 wrote:

> > Try cyanoacrylate ("Superglue").

> CA is probably the best option.

I'd recommend wood glue or Gorilla glue. Much easier to fill gaps from
splinters.

[dsi1[_15_]]

On 4/30/2012 9:07 AM, George M. Middius wrote:
> dsi1 wrote:
>
>>> Try cyanoacrylate ("Superglue").
>
>> CA is probably the best option.
>
> I'd recommend wood glue or Gorilla glue. Much easier to fill gaps from
> splinters.
>

I guess there's been a little too much editing somewhere on down the
line. We was talking about split fingernails. :-)

[dsi1[_2_]]

On 4/30/2012 11:42 AM, Sqwertz wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:19:15 -1000, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> On 4/30/2012 9:07 AM, George M. Middius wrote:
>>> dsi1 wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Try cyanoacrylate ("Superglue").
>>>
>>>> CA is probably the best option.
>>>
>>> I'd recommend wood glue or Gorilla glue. Much easier to fill gaps from
>>> splinters.
>>>
>>
>> I guess there's been a little too much editing somewhere on down the
>> line. We was talking about split fingernails. :-)
>
> You need some Assertiveness Training. If you're sure about something,
> don't be wuss and say you "guess" - just SAY it outright and stop
> typing in that mousy little voice of yours!

This might be the first intelligent thing you've ever said - dickhead!
It's still a stupid post but everything with you must be done on a
relative scale... :-)

>
> ObFood: Caramelized onions and cheese tarts tonight. And some sort of
> fish maybe.
>
> -sw

[dsi1[_2_]]

On 4/30/2012 12:57 PM, Sqwertz wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:02:00 -1000, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> On 4/30/2012 11:42 AM, Sqwertz wrote:
>>
>>> You need some Assertiveness Training. If you're sure about something,
>>> don't be wuss and say you "guess" - just SAY it outright and stop
>>> typing in that mousy little voice of yours!
>>
>> This might be the first intelligent thing you've ever said - dickhead!
>> It's still a stupid post but everything with you must be done on a
>> relative scale... :-)
>
> You did it again. You said "might". If you're sure about your
> opinion, just say it! Make it absolute, make it aggressive, don't
> leave any wishy washy wiggle room!
>
> Sheesh.
>
> -Coach Sqwertz

Sheesh yourself. Yeah, you can try to get folks to post just the way
you'd like them to post in your perfect little world. It don't take a
genius to figure out that it's mostly only the hardcore posters that
inhabit these waters nowadays. Just wait and see where all that
whining's going get your ass. Have a nice day cooch err, coach! :-)

[dsi1[_2_]]

On 4/30/2012 2:36 PM, Sqwertz wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 13:28:18 -1000, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> On 4/30/2012 12:57 PM, Sqwertz wrote:
>>> On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:02:00 -1000, dsi1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 4/30/2012 11:42 AM, Sqwertz wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> You need some Assertiveness Training. If you're sure about something,
>>>>> don't be wuss and say you "guess" - just SAY it outright and stop
>>>>> typing in that mousy little voice of yours!
>>>>
>>>> This might be the first intelligent thing you've ever said - dickhead!
>>>> It's still a stupid post but everything with you must be done on a
>>>> relative scale... :-)
>>>
>>> You did it again. You said "might". If you're sure about your
>>> opinion, just say it! Make it absolute, make it aggressive, don't
>>> leave any wishy washy wiggle room!
>>>
>>> Sheesh.
>>>
>>> -Coach Sqwertz
>>
>> Sheesh yourself. Yeah, you can try to get folks to post just the way
>> you'd like them to post in your perfect little world.
>
> <snork> That's not what this is about, at all. We obviously have
> more work to do here, but since you're getting grumpy we'll cut
> today's lessons short and just take "baby steps" from now on. Have a
> good night!

I'm sorry, you've used up all my discretionary time with your dopy
chit-chat. Please come up with something with more meat on it or I'm
gonna have to ignore your puta ass. Don't talk about me and especially
don't talk about yourself and how you want me to post. Thanks a slice. :-)

>
> ObFood: I promised a caramelized onion and cheese tart (with fresh
> leeks) and some sort of fish (tilapia) for dinner earlier in th
> thread, so:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/sqwertz...ream/lightbox/
>
> -sw

[isw]

In article
>,
spamtrap1888 > wrote:

> On Apr 28, 12:24*pm, "Kswck" > wrote:
> > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > and separating.
> >
> > In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?
>
> Don't soak laminated boards in water. I repaired ours with Elmer's
> Carpenter's Wood Glue, which is OK for incidental food contact. I just
> held it together till the glue set. When dry, I sanded top, bottom,
> and arond the sides.
>
> Gorilla Glue is extremely hazardous if swallowed, so keep it out of
> reach of children and animals. I wouldn't keep it in the house.

The individual components, yes, but I don't think that's true after it's
cured. Urethanes are pretty non-reactive in that state.

Isaac

[spamtrap1888]

On Apr 30, 9:23*pm, isw > wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
> *spamtrap1888 > wrote:
> > On Apr 28, 12:24*pm, "Kswck" > wrote:
> > > For reasons that won't be gone into, my good wood cutting board is cracked
> > > and separating.
>
> > > In order to repair it, I should like to know how to repair it?
>
> > Don't soak laminated boards in water. I repaired ours with Elmer's
> > Carpenter's Wood Glue, which is OK for incidental food contact. I just
> > held it together till the glue set. When dry, I sanded top, bottom,
> > and arond the sides.
>
> > Gorilla Glue is extremely hazardous if swallowed, so keep it out of
> > reach of children and animals. I wouldn't keep it in the house.
>
> The individual components, yes, but I don't think that's true after it's
> cured. Urethanes are pretty non-reactive in that state.
>

It will swell as it cures in your gut.

[Ophelia[_7_]]

"Sqwertz" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:02:00 -1000, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> On 4/30/2012 11:42 AM, Sqwertz wrote:
>>
>>> You need some Assertiveness Training. If you're sure about something,
>>> don't be wuss and say you "guess" - just SAY it outright and stop
>>> typing in that mousy little voice of yours!
>>
>> This might be the first intelligent thing you've ever said - dickhead!
>> It's still a stupid post but everything with you must be done on a
>> relative scale... :-)
>
> You did it again. You said "might". If you're sure about your
> opinion, just say it! Make it absolute, make it aggressive, don't
> leave any wishy washy wiggle room!
>
> Sheesh.
>
> -Coach Sqwertz

You are in a particularly spikey mood today, Coach ...

--
--

http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/