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I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it in
appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Taking them one at a time: NAPOLEON: The main problem I have with napoleons is that when you bite into them the mousse-like filling squishes out the sides. This effect can be lessened by making the filling firmer, the napoleon bite-sized, and/or making the crusty bit less crusty. So what form should a parmesan napoleon take? One fairly obvious route would be to make parmesan crisps by mounding grated cheese onto a Silpat and cooking until melted and crisp. But to me, one of the most appealing qualities of parmesan is its inclusion of flavorful little crystals, and those crystals are diminished by grating and destroyed by cooking. So what if I just shaved off thin slices of parmesan and used that as the top and bottom of the napoleon? That would also slightly help with the problem I noted above where the filling squishes out when you bite into a napoleon. No, I can't do that; a napoleon *has* to have a crispy part or it isn't a napoleon, at least not to me. On the other hand, who cares if it meets a strict definition of napoleon? I don't *have* to make a napoleon; I'm not committed to the idea at all. How about a kind of canapé with a crisp bottom, a filling, and a slice of parmesan on top? But wait, wouldn't the squishing problem be *completely* eliminated if I put the slice of parmesan right onto the crispy bottom, and put the soft filling on top? (Of course, then it wouldn't be a "filling" anymore, it would become a "topping." But it would still be something like a mousse in texture.) What about that crispy bottom; does it *have* to be a parmesan crisp? Those things can be leathery now and then, and I wouldn't want that. So how about if I made the bottom out of docked puff pastry instead? Well, I hate to sacrifice that crisped parmesan flavor; maybe I could sprinkle parmesan very sparsely on a Silpat and cook until it was completely brown and crisp, and sprinkle that over the mousse. Yeah, I think that'll be it: Puff pastry bottom, topped with a slice of parmesan, topped with some kind of mousse, and ultimately topped with crisp browned parmesan slivers. BEEF MARROW: Initially I thought it was a given that I'd roast the beef marrow, but now I'm leaning toward poaching it instead; the delicacy of the marrow is retained that way. Putting parmesan on poached marrow seems a bit too simplistic, though, and I'd like something which could be eaten with bare hands. Both the marrow and the cheese are exceptionally fatty, so it would be nice to have a base which wasn't fatty, along with some acidic and/or herbal counterpoints. I thought about celery, but it's not the right size or shape. I thought about Ritz crackers, but they're too buttery. I thought about Wheat Thins, but they're too aggressively crunchy and health-foody. I thought about lettuce, but it would be too awkward. I thought I was on to something with the idea of toasted pita rounds, and I was about to settle on that until I thought of Belgian endive. Belgian endive leaves are the right size and shape, and the bitterness will help offset the richness of the marrow and cheese. So Belgian endive, poached marrow, and parmesan...is there anything else needed? Maybe a light drizzle of a mustardy vinaigrette? Herbs -- WHAT herbs? I think a bit of tarragon in the vinaigrette would be adequate. That "clicks": Belgian endive base, poached marrow, tarragon-mustard vinaigrette, and generous shavings of parmesan. At this stage it's still purely conceptual; I'll be making the final products next Wednesday. Do those sound like good uses for the parmesan? Bob |
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