Not sure how many people are familiar with this area of both South
France and Northwest Spain, but I have always loved all things Basque, save
politics. Until we got back from our vacation, I only had six books on
Basque cooking. While a large collection by anyone's standards, the thought
of adding to the collection was just below the surface.

We started in Paris, where the SBF was on a temporary assignment. I flew
over to meet her. We had dinner at a corny old favorite of ours: Monsieur
Lapin. Naturally, I had the Lapin Moutarde. And the next day we were on the
TGV to Biarritz. We spent two nights there, about two blocks from the ocean.
As the season had not yet started, it was easy to get around, while the
prices were still under control. We dipped our toes in the Atlantic, a lot
warmer than dipping ones digits in the North Pacific!

Of course we explored the local indoor market, a wonderful treat, populated
with many warm and open stall owners. When they learned we were from
Seattle, they all seemed willing to talk about their relatives living in
California, Oregon and Idaho. I just wanted to buy up one of those
wonderful Bayonne hams, hanging in their colorful striped cloth bags. For
those unaware, this particular ham is coated in powdered Espelette pepper.
So very tasty. Then I slapped myself in the face and remembered the beagles
would catch me in Seattle as we got off the Air France flight!

We had an absolutely to die for dinner at a restaurant named Ahizpak, les
trois soeurs. Doubt the sisters were triplets, but it was scary seeing the
same person seat us, pour our wine and cook our meal!! Perhaps our finest
meal on our trip through France and Portugal. The highlight was an amazing
entree that consisted of four gutted sardines, each wrapped in basil, and
then each wrapped with filo dough, fried and served on a bed of greens with
an Espelette based sauce. Can you say seconds!! I know we were on to
something when we got home and picked up our mail. In it was the latest
issue of Gault Millau containing a write up on our restaurant.

At this point, I should offer up an observation that belies the common
belief about Western European food portions. After thinking over all the
meals we were served on our trip, we both came to the conclusion that the
food portions had grown to unmanageable proportions. I don't mind starting
with a good rillette de canard, but when it was about 8 ounces, they have
gone overboard. The Plats were also of similar proportions. Things have
really changed since so much American has creeped into Europe. Now I have to
walk even more each day to absorb it all. Finally, in complete frustration,
we gave up all deserts, save fresh fruit.

On to Lisbon where the SBF, in a different life, spent time there. We took
the overnight train, with sleeper car, into the summer night as the train
rolled on through Spain. The Portuguese Railway, while not noted for a good
wine cellar, was well stocked with plenty of plonk. For the first time in 40
years, I had a bottle of Mateus Rose!!!! This, along with a chicken dish,
and an excellent Portuguese orange worked wonders.

We arrived in Lisbon on a Friday at mid-day. Not just any Friday, but St.
Anthony's day. The patron saint of Lisbon. And that meant only one thing:
it's party time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It all started with a parade that wound down
the Avenue Libertad, starting at about 10PM. It finally ended about 4AM.
Then there were block parties all over Lisbon that went on until noon. So we
heard. We crapped out after dinner at 2AM!! Late enough for us.

For the SBF, gardens and castles galore, including a side trip to Sintra and
the Moorish castle, along with another well pimped out castle nearby.
History sometimes offers up a good joke.

As the tour books state, great seafood, piggie and chicken. I was also
impressed with some of the reds. I even enjoyed he Vinho Verdes, rather
young, somewhat bubbly green wine, clocking in at about 10%. And the most
marvelous white sangria, made with local bubbly and brandy. Deadly!!

The SBF missed one dish from her past, a rotisserie chicken piri-piri. So, I
asked the hotel manager where we could find some, since it was not really
found on menus. He pointed out a restaurant, where the owner is called, I
kid you not, the king of chicken. I guess he is the Portuguese Colonel
Sanders! We found the place, and lo and behold, everyone was eating chicken.
Suitably crispy chicken with a glaze of piri-piri oil. I painted an
additional layer and dove in. For the two of us, we received a whole chicken
(about 2 1/2 to 3 lbs, cut in quarters) and hefty plate of fries. The
chicken was wonderful. The fries, were somewhat cold and mushy. Not sure
how, but our waiter appeared unbidden five minutes later with a new plate of
fries, too hot to eat and crispy, with a suitable amount of salt on it. How
did he know!!!

Four nites and five days and we finally had our fill of Lisbon, and taxied
back to the train station for a 4PM train to Hendeye in France. One last
terror laden trip in a Portuguese taxi. They are nuts!!! Driving in Portugal
is not the best thing one can do for relaxation.

An enjoyable train ride, with a long cocktail hour, staring into the high
desert country in the part of Portugal due east of Lisbon. Then dinner, and
watching the sun set after 10PM into the mountains.

Wake up for coffee, juice and rolls was at 6:30AM. We reach Hendeye at 7AM,
with the TGV on the next track, leaving at 7:30A for Paris. The best part
was after leaving Bordeaux, heading through St. Emilion. How can one not be
inspired going past some of the best wineries in the world.

Paris was the usual for us: gardens for the SBF and another visit to the
oven in the basement of the Poilane bakery in the Cherche Midi. This was
followed by a visit to Le Bon Marche, and its wonderful food hall. Dinner
that night was a Basque restaurant around the block from our hotel in the
15th.

The next day we day tripped to Vernon, with a bus to Giverny. Almost ten
years to the day we first visited the Water Lilies.

And the next day, it was Air France back to Seattle. My carry-on included
two boules from Poilane.

The best part of the trip. Without a doubt, it was the Basque country. The
people were so friendly, the food was basic and delicious, the wine was
superb (when was the last time you had Irouleguy!!). And I was thoroughly
impressed with all the ways to work with Espelette pepper.

Oh, the cook books. When we we visited the Espelette Pepper Syndicate, we
told them that I wanted to buy some Basque cookbooks, in English. There are
plenty in French and Basque; but we found none in our travels throughout the
Pays Basque. To our good fortune, the manager of their shop told me of a
large book store in Bayonne where we might just find what we wanted. So, on
the way back to the Biarritz train station, we detoured to Bayonne. Bingo, a
book store that had exactly two Basque cookbooks in English. And just one
copy of each. Both wound up in my bag. Natch, one of them was of the best
Pinxtos in San Sebastian!

To anyone looking to go to France, but not France, who also wants to go to
Spain, but not to Spain, my wholehearted recommendation that you vacation in
the Pays Basque in June, when the weather was warm, sunny, and not yet
choked off with tourists.