"blake murphy" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 10:54:38 -0500, Dave Smith
> > wrote:
>
> >Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger. The cheap
> >stuff is diluted.
> >
>
> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five percent
> acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing 'pickling vinegar' at the
> store.
>
> your pal,
> blake

A change of subject: Burned on Sugar
My wife was making some preserve and we now have a layer of sugar syrup
burned on the bottom of a Dutch Oven. Even steel wool will not touch it.
Any body have suggestions please?
Doug

>

..com> wrote in message
...
>
> "blake murphy" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 10:54:38 -0500, Dave Smith
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger.
>> >The cheap
>> >stuff is diluted.
>> >
>>
>> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five
>> percent
>> acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing 'pickling vinegar'
>> at the
>> store.
>>
>> your pal,
>> blake
>
> A change of subject: Burned on Sugar
> My wife was making some preserve and we now have a layer of
> sugar syrup
> burned on the bottom of a Dutch Oven. Even steel wool will
> not touch it.
> Any body have suggestions please?
> "Doug" <dougcutler@mindspring
>
I'll be interested in any replies. I had the same problem when
the sugar was pretty thoroughly carbonized. Soaking with a
strong solution of dishwasher soap *might* work. In my own case,
the interior of the pot was stainless steel and, even after a
blow torch did not work, I finally and successfully used a wire
brush on a drill. I know that wouldn't be appropriate for a
ceramic pot.



--
Jim Silverton
Potomac, Maryland

James Silverton wrote:
> Lou wrote on Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:41:31 GMT:
>
> ??>> blake wrote on Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:47:15 GMT:
> ??>>
> ??>>>> blake murphy wrote:
> ??>>>>
> ??>>>>> no, but i will. i just bought a bottle of cheap white
> ??>>>>> vinegar (ostensibly to clean the microwave), but
> ??>>>>> haven't deployed it yet.
> ??>>>>>
> ??>>>> Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot
> ??>>>> stronger. The cheap stuff is diluted.
> ??>>>>
> bm>>> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five
> bm>>> percent acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing
> bm>>> 'pickling vinegar' at the store.
> ??>>
> ??>> If you need more acid strength than regular vinegar, you
> ??>> can buy muriatic acid (hydrochloric) at a hardware store.
> ??>> Don't use much, wear gloves and wash off with lots of
> ??>> water. A short contact is not that dangerous to skin but
> ??>> I'd also use goggles to avoid getting it in my eyes.
>
> LD> BAD BAD BAD advice. It will discolor the faucet, and
> LD> unless you have a very strong cross breeze you'll be
> LD> running out of the house. Blake is in a wheelchair. BAD
> LD> BAD BAD advice!!!!!!!!!
>
> I'd debate that advice. I have used it for years for stainless steel
> pots and sinks when vinegar would not do. You certainly wouldn't want to
> use it on any material that could be harmed by acid. It's less dangerous
> than the lye solutions used for drain blockage and the fumes are *not*
> serious unless you intend to boil it. Like any dangerous material,
> adequate protective clothing and ventilation is a good idea and extra
> care would be needed in case of an accident if you have mobility problems.

You shouldn't use it to clear out a clogged chlorine dispenser for a
swimming pool, either. I was 17. My half-wit boss told me to, and I
didn't know any better. They had to evacuate the clubhouse because of
the fumes.

In article >, Lou Decruss > wrote:
>On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:14:46 GMT, "James Silverton"
> wrote:
>
>> blake wrote on Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:47:15 GMT:
>>
>> ??>> blake murphy wrote:
>> ??>>
>> ??>>> no, but i will. i just bought a bottle of cheap white
>> ??>>> vinegar (ostensibly to clean the microwave), but haven't
>> ??>>> deployed it yet.
>> ??>>>
>> ??>> Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger.
>> ??>> The cheap stuff is diluted.
>> ??>>
>> bm> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five
>> bm> percent acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing
>> bm> 'pickling vinegar' at the store.
>>
>>If you need more acid strength than regular vinegar, you can buy
>>muriatic acid (hydrochloric) at a hardware store. Don't use
>>much, wear gloves and wash off with lots of water. A short
>>contact is not that dangerous to skin but I'd also use goggles
>>to avoid getting it in my eyes.
>
>BAD BAD BAD advice. It will discolor the faucet, and unless you have
>a very strong cross breeze you'll be running out of the house. Blake
>is in a wheelchair. BAD BAD BAD advice!!!!!!!!!

Dunno about you folk in the USA, but here in Oz you could damn near
drink any HCl you can buy in household retail outlets. Now, if
you were talking conc H2SO4 or fuming HNO3 from a lab supply company,
I'd have to agree :-)

Cheers, Phred.

--
LID

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:14:46 GMT, "James Silverton"
> wrote:

> blake wrote on Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:47:15 GMT:
>
> ??>> blake murphy wrote:
> ??>>
> ??>>> no, but i will. i just bought a bottle of cheap white
> ??>>> vinegar (ostensibly to clean the microwave), but haven't
> ??>>> deployed it yet.
> ??>>>
> ??>> Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger.
> ??>> The cheap stuff is diluted.
> ??>>
> bm> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five
> bm> percent acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing
> bm> 'pickling vinegar' at the store.
>
>If you need more acid strength than regular vinegar, you can buy
>muriatic acid (hydrochloric) at a hardware store. Don't use
>much, wear gloves and wash off with lots of water. A short
>contact is not that dangerous to skin but I'd also use goggles
>to avoid getting it in my eyes.
>
>James Silverton

well, this is not a heavy build-up i'm dealing with, just a little
whitish deposit - just a quick scrub with dish detergent removes most
of it. if i need a hazmat approach, i'd rather just live with it.

your pal,
blake

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:41:31 GMT, Lou Decruss > wrote:

>On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:14:46 GMT, "James Silverton"
> wrote:
>
>> blake wrote on Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:47:15 GMT:
>>
>> ??>> blake murphy wrote:
>> ??>>
>> ??>>> no, but i will. i just bought a bottle of cheap white
>> ??>>> vinegar (ostensibly to clean the microwave), but haven't
>> ??>>> deployed it yet.
>> ??>>>
>> ??>> Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger.
>> ??>> The cheap stuff is diluted.
>> ??>>
>> bm> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five
>> bm> percent acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing
>> bm> 'pickling vinegar' at the store.
>>
>>If you need more acid strength than regular vinegar, you can buy
>>muriatic acid (hydrochloric) at a hardware store. Don't use
>>much, wear gloves and wash off with lots of water. A short
>>contact is not that dangerous to skin but I'd also use goggles
>>to avoid getting it in my eyes.
>
>
>BAD BAD BAD advice. It will discolor the faucet, and unless you have
>a very strong cross breeze you'll be running out of the house. Blake
>is in a wheelchair. BAD BAD BAD advice!!!!!!!!!
>
>Lou

i still get gassed once in a while, though.

your pal,
blake

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:46:21 -0600, Melba's Jammin'
> wrote:

>In article >,
> blake murphy > wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 10:54:38 -0500, Dave Smith
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >blake murphy wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> no, but i will. i just bought a bottle of cheap white vinegar
>> >> (ostensibly to clean the microwave), but haven't deployed it yet.
>> >>
>> >
>> >Pickling vinegar might work better. It is a lot stronger. The cheap
>> >stuff is diluted.
>> >
>>
>> it's standard white vinegar, store brand, diluted to five percent
>> acidity. i can't say that i recall seeing 'pickling vinegar' at the
>> store.
>>
>> your pal,
>> blake
>
>
>The Canadian folks get pickling vinegar, Blake -- it's stronger -- maybe
>8% ? I saw it available here a few years ago (Heinz?) but it wasn't
>around for very long.
>
>The more I think about it, though, I'm thinking that what I saw was
>stronger than 5% *and labeled as for cleaning.*

i'll nose around the grocery when i go this afternoon.

your pal,
blake

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 13:16:14 GMT, (Phred)
wrote:

>In article >, Lou Decruss > wrote:

>Dunno about you folk in the USA, but here in Oz you could damn near
>drink any HCl you can buy in household retail outlets. Now, if
>you were talking conc H2SO4 or fuming HNO3 from a lab supply company,
>I'd have to agree :-)
>
>Cheers, Phred.

The bottle of muriatic acid I have says "20 baume (31.45%)" I don't
know what that means, but I do know it's used to etch concrete and
clean bricks. It's also used to clean acid rain stains from old brown
and graystone buildings. Most professionals don't like to use it
because it is so strong it make the stones degrade. When I was a kid
I worked after school cleaning office buildings. We'd use a few
ounces in the toilets once a month to make them look brand new. Even
that small amount made the air nasty. I once used too much and the
fumes discolored the chrome toilet paper holders. When you pour in on
concrete it bubbles and smokes. I use it to clean my boat and once in
a long while, our toilets. I don't remember what the project was, but
I learned it will eat through rubber gloves.

It's nothing for someone in a wheelchair to play with in an enclosed
space.

Lou

Lou wrote on Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:34:55 GMT:

??>> In article >,
??>> Lou Decruss > wrote:

??>> Dunno about you folk in the USA, but here in Oz you could
??>> damn near drink any HCl you can buy in household retail
??>> outlets. Now, if you were talking conc H2SO4 or fuming
??>> HNO3 from a lab supply company, I'd have to agree :-)
??>>
??>> Cheers, Phred.

LD> The bottle of muriatic acid I have says "20 baume (31.45%)"
LD> I don't know what that means, but I do know it's used to
LD> etch concrete and clean bricks. It's also used to clean
LD> acid rain stains from old brown and graystone buildings.
LD> Most professionals don't like to use it because it is so
LD> strong it make the stones degrade. When I was a kid I
LD> worked after school cleaning office buildings. We'd use a
LD> few ounces in the toilets once a month to make them look
LD> brand new. Even that small amount made the air nasty. I
LD> once used too much and the fumes discolored the chrome
LD> toilet paper holders. When you pour in on concrete it
LD> bubbles and smokes. I use it to clean my boat and once in
LD> a long while, our toilets. I don't remember what the
LD> project was, but I learned it will eat through rubber
LD> gloves.

LD> It's nothing for someone in a wheelchair to play with in an
LD> enclosed space.

We disagree on fumes obviously. IMHO, HCl as bought has an odor
but not a very strong one but no-one puts it in a wine glass and
sniffs to discuss the vintage :-) Of course it will dissolve
concrete, mortar and limestone but concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids are much more dangerous. Damage on skin contact
with them is instantaneous. In one of my summer jobs I saw the
laborers frequently clean sodium alginate from their rubber
gloves with the acid while wearing them. Skin contact is not a
disaster so long as water is available for rinsing.

With acids, it depends a lot on the strength. If you think about
it, the acid of vinegar, acetic acid, is dangerous and nothing
to fool around with when concentrated.Toilet cleaners are often
strongly acidic even if they are not hydrochloric acid, the
commonly used sodium hydrogen sulfate is pretty acid too! A lot
of things require care in their use.


James Silverton
Potomac, Maryland

E-mail, with obvious alterations:
not.jim.silverton.at.verizon.not

In article >,
enigma > wrote:
>Sqwertz > wrote in
:
>
>> On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:36:01 +0000 (UTC), enigma wrote:
>>
>>> i was getting ready to brown the beef for stew yesterday &
>>> was distracted away from the kitchen. so... i have a new
>>> stainless steel pot with burnt on oil. is there a way to
>>> remove it & will the pot be forever burning stuff now?
>>> boiling baking soda in it did nothing.

>> We've only had this thread twice (now three times) in the
>> last 3 weeks.

There have been thousands of posts in the last three weeks. While it's a
good idea for people to learn to use google/google groups, it's not
surprising that people miss things in the volume.

> the one i saw was aluminum cookie sheets... which are not the
>same as stainless steel pots. different cleaning techniques.
> at any rate, i soaked the pot in vinegar for a few hours,
>then scrubbed the rest out with BarKeeper's Friend & it looks
>just fine again. we'll see if it burns things when i next cook
>in it.

Thanks to everyone on the thread for their tips. I had a nonstick baking
pan (my good heavy half-sheet pan) that had gotten a bit brown with
oil residue because it's the pan I usually roast vegetables on. Dishwasher,
no help.

On Saturday I roasted squash and the pan was extra brown.

I put boiling water and Dawn dishwasher liquid in it when it was still
warm ("hair of the dog" principle) and let it sit. Then I gently scrubbed
with my plastic "non stick pan" scrubbie when the water was cool enough to
not hurt me if it splashed.

It got everything out but some of the really carbonized bits in the
corners. (The water was tea-colored when I dumped it out.)

I've got my big bottle of vinegar, my big box of baking soda, and I'm
going to look for some Dawn Power Dissolver. When I get the DPD, I'll
try it on my French oven, which is a bit discolored at the bottom. Cook's
says that a 1:4 bleach solution overnight will make the Le Crueset look
like new, but I can keep that as a last resort (although I really need to
buy some bleach as well).

Thanks!

Charlotte
--