|
Sharpening knifes
Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is
the best to use? |
Sharpening knifes
On Jul 7, 7:31?pm, "Clive H" > wrote:
> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is > the best to use? What are "knifes"? |
Sharpening knifes
Frank Gilliland wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > > wrote in >: > > > Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, > > which is the best to use? > > > Whichever one sharpens your knife. Yes, but which one sharpens the best? > Why is this crossposted to so many groups? Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! |
Sharpening knifes
On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" >
wrote in >: >Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is >the best to use? Whichever one sharpens your knife. Why is this crossposted to so many groups? |
Sharpening knifes
On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote:
> Frank Gilliland wrote: > > On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > > > wrote in >: > > > > Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, > > > which is the best to use? > > > Whichever one sharpens your knife. > > Yes, but which one sharpens the best? > > > Why is this crossposted to so many groups? > > Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. |
Sharpening knifes
On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:50:33 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" >
wrote in >: >Frank Gilliland wrote: > >> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > >> wrote in >: >> >> > Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >> > which is the best to use? >> >> >> Whichever one sharpens your knife. > >Yes, but which one sharpens the best? Well, unless the knife is too soft to hold an edge, I can sharpen most any knife with a standard kitchen combination stone (medium on one side, fine on the other). If I want it razor sharp, a few swipes on a leather belt works good, just like at the barber shop. I don't see a need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overkill, IMO. >> Why is this crossposted to so many groups? > >Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! Fair enough. |
Sharpening knifes
Sheldon wrote:
> On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote: > >>Frank Gilliland wrote: >> >>>On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > >>>wrote in >: >> >>>>Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>>which is the best to use? >> >>>Whichever one sharpens your knife. >> >>Yes, but which one sharpens the best? >> >> >>>Why is this crossposted to so many groups? >> >>Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! > > > There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. > This is news to a lot of people, have you tried googling "knife" |
Sharpening knifes
"Norvin" > wrote in message t... > Sheldon wrote: >> On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote: >> >>>Frank Gilliland wrote: >>> >>>>On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > >>>>wrote in >: >>> >>>>>Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>>>which is the best to use? >>> >>>>Whichever one sharpens your knife. >>> >>>Yes, but which one sharpens the best? >>> >>> >>>>Why is this crossposted to so many groups? >>> >>>Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! >> >> >> There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. >> > This is news to a lot of people, have you tried googling "knife" Try googling "knifes." What does it say at the top of the screen? -T |
Sharpening knifes
Frank Gilliland > Thou bowlegged fell
serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded: > I don't see a > need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of > alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other > knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<BITCHSLAP> Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife. HTH -- alt.usenet.kooks "We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us." Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129] Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007. Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660 Usenet Ruiner Lits Top Assholes on the Net Lits Most hated usenetizens of all time Lits AUK psychos and felons Lits #2 Cog in the Usenet Hate Machine Lits "Now I know what it is. Now I know what it means when an alt.usenet.kook x-post shows up." AOK in Jij bent vast een brutale driedubbele regelneef. |
Sharpening knifes
On Jul 7, 9:08?pm, Norvin > wrote:
> Sheldon wrote: > > On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote: > > >>Frank Gilliland wrote: > > >>>On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > > >>>wrote in >: > > >>>>Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, > >>>>which is the best to use? > > >>>Whichever one sharpens your knife. > > >>Yes, but which one sharpens the best? > > >>>Why is this crossposted to so many groups? > > >>Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! > > > There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. > > This is news to a lot of people, have you tried googling "knife Norwin, you low IQ mother****er. |
Sharpening knifes
On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man"
> wrote in >: >Frank Gilliland > Thou bowlegged fell >serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded: > >> I don't see a >> need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of >> alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other >> knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<BITCHSLAP> > >Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife. > >HTH Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive- property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in glass cutters are made. |
Sharpening knifes
|
Sharpening knifes
Clive H wrote:
> Frank Gilliland wrote: > > >>On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > >>wrote in >: >> >> >>>Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>which is the best to use? >> >> >>Whichever one sharpens your knife. > > > Yes, but which one sharpens the best? > > >>Why is this crossposted to so many groups? > > > Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! No they are not. The only relevant group to post this would be uk.diy A group dedicated to diy projects just like the one you asked. Sharpening knives has nothing to do with the groups you have cross posted to. HTH Dave |
Sharpening knifes
Dave wrote:
> Clive H wrote: > >> Frank Gilliland wrote: >> >> >>> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" > >>> wrote in >: >>> >>> >>>> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>> which is the best to use? >>> >>> >>> >>> Whichever one sharpens your knife. >> >> >> >> Yes, but which one sharpens the best? >> >> >>> Why is this crossposted to so many groups? >> >> >> >> Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! > > > No they are not. The only relevant group to post this would be uk.diy A > group dedicated to diy projects just like the one you asked. > Sharpening knives has nothing to do with the groups you have cross > posted to. Though they all need sharp knives... I forgot to add. Try a google for 'sharpening knives' You will come up with lots of help. Dave |
Sharpening knifes
On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 17:54:30 -0700, Bob Officer
> wrote in >: >On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 10:15:10 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank >Gilliland > wrote: > >>On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 16:13:39 +0545, "Kadaitcha Man" > wrote in >: >> >>>Frank Gilliland > Thou bowlegged fell >>>serpent. Thou bewildered pilchard. Ye reprimanded: >>> >>>> I don't see a >>>> need for diamond in a sharpening stone since most stones are made of >>>> alumina, which is already harder than any steel, titanium, or other >>>> knife material. Diamond is just overpriced overk<BITCHSLAP> >>> >>>Not if you need to sharpen an alumina knife. >>> >>>HTH >> >> >>Yes, an alumina stone would even sharpen an alumina knife, just like >>diamond dust is used to cut and polish diamond gemstones. But I have >>yet to run across any diamond or alumina knives at my local hardware >>store. Even if I did, I would be wary because the alumina or diamond >>would likely just be some dust embedded in a softer metal. It doesn't >>make the blade any stronger or sharper, but gives it an -abrasive- >>property that will scratch glass. That's how the little wheels in >>glass cutters are made. > >The little wheels in Glass cutter do not scratch the glass. The >pressure of the wheel press and flakes off the glass of little vee >shaped groove. The glass is then flexed and the glass breaks along >the vee grove if you have done it correctly. The glass cutters with a >small diamond in the tip actually scratch the glass and not the >preferred method of cutting glass. The Diamond "scratched glass" >tends to not break as cleanly. I prefer using a small well oiled >wheel to cut glass. I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info! |
Sharpening knifes
On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer
> wrote in >: <snip> >>I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info! > >Glad to be a help. >About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun, >not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you. Well, I do have this cathedral that needs a new window..... BTW, I'm posting from a survival newsgroup, so I suspect you might have some good advice for those of us less experienced with glass cuts: What's the best way to clean out shards and apply first aid? Just go at it with the tweezers? |
Sharpening knifes
Clive H wrote:
> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is > the best to use? > Whatever is good for you , and the knife you are using I like an oil stone for my personal knives , the one I use is more than 100 yr old , and originaly came from Germany in the 1800s with a boat maker it gives a beautiful edge . this is ian interesting read , if it hasnt been posted allready : http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036 |
Sharpening knifes
Norvin wrote:
> Sheldon wrote: >> On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote: >> >>> Frank Gilliland wrote: >>> >>>> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" >>>> > wrote in >>>> >: >>> >>>>> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>>> which is the best to use? >>> >>>> Whichever one sharpens your knife. >>> >>> Yes, but which one sharpens the best? >>> >>> >>>> Why is this crossposted to so many groups? >>> >>> Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! >> >> >> There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. >> > This is news to a lot of people, have you tried googling "knife" Knife is singular. Knives is plural. There is no such word as "knifes". |
Sharpening knifes
"jmcquown" > wrote in news:5felo7F3brqegU1
@mid.individual.net: > Norvin wrote: >> Sheldon wrote: >>> On Jul 7, 7:50?pm, "Clive H" > wrote: >>> >>>> Frank Gilliland wrote: >>>> >>>>> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:31:40 +0000 (UTC), "Clive H" >>>>> > wrote in >>>>> >: >>>> >>>>>> Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, >>>>>> which is the best to use? >>>> >>>>> Whichever one sharpens your knife. >>>> >>>> Yes, but which one sharpens the best? >>>> >>>> >>>>> Why is this crossposted to so many groups? >>>> >>>> Because they're all relevant to sharpening knifes! >>> >>> >>> There is no such word as "knifes", you ****ing crossposting imbecile. >>> >> This is news to a lot of people, have you tried googling "knife" > > Knife is singular. Knives is plural. There is no such word as "knifes". > > > Actually knifes are what sheeps will use on you if you don't wear your foil hat and the aliens gain control of your mind. -- The house of the burning beet-Alan It'll be a sunny day in August, when the Moon will shine that night- Elbonian Folklore |
Sharpening knifes
On Mon, 09 Jul 2007 01:57:12 -0700, Bob Officer
> wrote in >: >On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 19:17:20 -0700, in alt.usenet.kooks, Frank >Gilliland > wrote: > >>On Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:56:53 -0700, Bob Officer > wrote in >: >> >><snip> >>>>I stand corrected, and thanks for the good info! >>> >>>Glad to be a help. >>>About 15 years as an amateur stained glass artist. I do it for fun, >>>not profit. Please, don't ask me to make anything for you. >> >> >>Well, I do have this cathedral that needs a new window..... > >Hah! now you know Why I don't do work for other people. > >>BTW, I'm posting from a survival newsgroup, so I suspect you might >>have some good advice for those of us less experienced with glass >>cuts: What's the best way to clean out shards and apply first aid? >>Just go at it with the tweezers? > >I would say "Pick out what you can see" However ... be very careful >when removing glass shards, it could be just like removing a plug >blocking a major wound and you could make a person bleed out if you >are not careful. Best immobilize the injured person and refer to a >professional medical personal. I do know (from experience) that it's difficult to see clear glass inside a wound. But I never thought that pulling it out could possibly uncork an artery. Makes sense -- if you can't see all the glass then you can't see where it's stuck. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. |
Sharpening knifes
The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the
diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm Clive H wrote: > Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is > the best to use? > -- Steve Bottorff www.sharpeningmadeeasy.com Remove REMOVE from address when replying |
Sharpening knifes
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B."
> wrote in > : >The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the >diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp. Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and just give it a little practice. Regardless..... It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes. I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't, here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel: - It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are long enough for a 6" blade. - Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas. - Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and bring it back for each stroke. - When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and repeat. - When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke. Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge. - The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST) into the leather. I don't know why, it just does. |
Sharpening knifes
"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message
... > On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B." > > wrote in > > : > >>The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the >>diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm > > > With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all > of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp. > Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick > up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and > just give it a little practice. > > Regardless..... > > It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening > knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough > to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems > at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes. > I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't, > here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel: > > - It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it > makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are > long enough for a 6" blade. > > - Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust > off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by > accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas. > > - Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the > full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the > full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions > or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't > sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and > bring it back for each stroke. > > - When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust > off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge > opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full > length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When > you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and > repeat. > > - When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with > the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the > blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke. > Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's > when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some > rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt > works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge. > > - The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST) > into the leather. I don't know why, it just does. > Well I agree with your basic premise with the only exception of don't use oil or water on the stone. I personally use Norton water stones which require soaking before use (about 5 minutes). One other note is you need to lap (flatten your stones regularly), simple due to the fact if the stone isn't flat neither will your edge be. I also use leather mounted to a hard base with Chromium oxide (.5 microns - 60,000 grit) which really puts a fine polish on a knife. Joe Cilinceon |
Sharpening knifes
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 22:50:10 -0400, "Joe Cilinceon"
> wrote in >: >"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message .. . >> On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B." >> > wrote in >> > : >> >>>The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the >>>diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm >> >> >> With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all >> of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp. >> Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick >> up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and >> just give it a little practice. >> >> Regardless..... >> >> It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening >> knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough >> to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems >> at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes. >> I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't, >> here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel: >> >> - It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it >> makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are >> long enough for a 6" blade. >> >> - Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust >> off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by >> accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas. >> >> - Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the >> full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the >> full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions >> or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't >> sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and >> bring it back for each stroke. >> >> - When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust >> off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge >> opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full >> length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When >> you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and >> repeat. >> >> - When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with >> the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the >> blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke. >> Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's >> when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some >> rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt >> works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge. >> >> - The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST) >> into the leather. I don't know why, it just does. >> > >Well I agree with your basic premise with the only exception of don't use >oil or water on the stone. I personally use Norton water stones which >require soaking before use (about 5 minutes). If it works. But I don't think I would use a water stone even if it worked because water tends to freeze where I live. That might shorten the life of the stone. Some people like to use oil, but it's messy because you are constantly oiling the stone, and I get just as good results with a dry stone. So that's what I do. > One other note is you need to >lap (flatten your stones regularly), simple due to the fact if the stone >isn't flat neither will your edge be. Yes, I did forget about that. I often forget to lap my stones (sounds kinda perverted). I also forgot about how to file a taper to the edge before you even get to the stones..... - DON'T draw the blade over the file like it was a sharpening stone. Clamp the blade, grab the file front and back, and use slow, single strokes forward. NEVER draw it backwards over the blade because that will dull your file in no time. Tap out the shavings from time to time, use a file card as needed, and don't use oil of ANY kind. If the file isn't cutting, use a sharp file instead. > I also use leather mounted to a hard >base with Chromium oxide (.5 microns - 60,000 grit) which really puts a fine >polish on a knife. Again, whatever works. I prefer a hone instead of a polish but that's because I work mostly with wood. I'm guessing you work more with leather or plastics? Anyway, you obviously have some experience. Many haven't. I've seen many people who don't have any experience buy some fancy stone for mega-bucks, and when it doesn't wash the dishes they go looking for a more expensive stone. Eventually they give up. If only they knew how easy it really is, and that it doesn't take a wad of cash to get a sharp knife. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about here. |
Sharpening knifes
"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message
... > On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 22:50:10 -0400, "Joe Cilinceon" > > wrote in >: > >>"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message . .. >>> On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B." >>> > wrote in >>> > : >>> >>>>The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the >>>>diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm >>> >>> >>> With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all >>> of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp. >>> Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick >>> up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and >>> just give it a little practice. >>> >>> Regardless..... >>> >>> It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening >>> knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough >>> to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems >>> at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes. >>> I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't, >>> here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel: >>> >>> - It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it >>> makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are >>> long enough for a 6" blade. >>> >>> - Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust >>> off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by >>> accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas. >>> >>> - Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the >>> full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the >>> full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions >>> or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't >>> sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and >>> bring it back for each stroke. >>> >>> - When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust >>> off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge >>> opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full >>> length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When >>> you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and >>> repeat. >>> >>> - When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with >>> the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the >>> blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke. >>> Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's >>> when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some >>> rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt >>> works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge. >>> >>> - The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST) >>> into the leather. I don't know why, it just does. >>> >> >>Well I agree with your basic premise with the only exception of don't use >>oil or water on the stone. I personally use Norton water stones which >>require soaking before use (about 5 minutes). > > > If it works. But I don't think I would use a water stone even if it > worked because water tends to freeze where I live. That might shorten > the life of the stone. Some people like to use oil, but it's messy > because you are constantly oiling the stone, and I get just as good > results with a dry stone. So that's what I do. > > >> One other note is you need to >>lap (flatten your stones regularly), simple due to the fact if the stone >>isn't flat neither will your edge be. > > > Yes, I did forget about that. I often forget to lap my stones (sounds > kinda perverted). I also forgot about how to file a taper to the edge > before you even get to the stones..... > > - DON'T draw the blade over the file like it was a sharpening stone. > Clamp the blade, grab the file front and back, and use slow, single > strokes forward. NEVER draw it backwards over the blade because that > will dull your file in no time. Tap out the shavings from time to > time, use a file card as needed, and don't use oil of ANY kind. If the > file isn't cutting, use a sharp file instead. > > >> I also use leather mounted to a hard >>base with Chromium oxide (.5 microns - 60,000 grit) which really puts a >>fine >>polish on a knife. > > > Again, whatever works. I prefer a hone instead of a polish but that's > because I work mostly with wood. I'm guessing you work more with > leather or plastics? > > Anyway, you obviously have some experience. Many haven't. I've seen > many people who don't have any experience buy some fancy stone for > mega-bucks, and when it doesn't wash the dishes they go looking for a > more expensive stone. Eventually they give up. If only they knew how > easy it really is, and that it doesn't take a wad of cash to get a > sharp knife. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about here. > Yes I work mostly with hard Japanese kitchen cutlery not much with tools any more. When I did tools it was also done dry as well. A high polish makes these kitchen knives cut better than a scalpel in most cases and they hold their edges a long time. As for waterstones though I also live where water will freeze I sharpen in the house where it is warm and as I said the stones only soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. After use they are cleaned and allowed dry and stored. Oh and the Japanese waterstones are something recent in the last 2 years. Below is a list of my sharpening equipment though not all is used all the time as it would depend on the knife's steel, use etc. Hand America Strop/Scary Sharp System 11"X3" Flatbed Hone 11"x3" seamed edge glass plate w/ Magnet strip ( used with polish paper ) 11"x3"x1/8" Hand America Treated Red Leather strop ( used as is ) 11"x3"x1/8" Hand America Smooth Natural Leather strop ( used with the Chromium Oxide below) Dry - Fine/Pure Chromium Oxide - .5 Micron/60,000 Grit Semi Liquid - 90% Chromium Oxide - .5 Micron/60,000 Grit Norton Stones 1K 8" x 3" x 1" 4K/8K 8" x 3" x 1" Combo Waterstones Norton Flattening Stone For Waterstones 9" x 3" x .75" Norton Synthetic Nagura Stone 3/4" x 3/4" x 3" (use to clean the 8K stone only) Other stones #220 grit Large Ceramic PA Water Stone 8-1/8" x 3" x 2" Ice Bear 1K 8" x 3" x 1" (used to make the misting between body of blade and edge on some knives) Ice Bear 4K 8" x 3" x 1" Ice Bear 10000x w/ Nagura 8" x 3" x 1" (High polish stone for mirror like finish) DMT Dia-Sharp D8XX w/ Stone Holder 8 x 3 x 3/8 in. (Bevel setting and major repair, also works for flattener) Bester #700 grit stone 8.2" x 3" x 1" Joe Cilinceon |
Sharpening knifes
Hollow grind weakens the blade , but allows honing several times , before you must remove lots of metal . If it were not hollow ground , you'd need to remove lots of metal , every time you hone , but it can be used as a guide , so thats the flip side of NOT hollow grinding . I use a folded piece of 320 Wet-or-dry sandpaper to hone . First condition the paper , by dragging it across a piece of scrap steel . This makes it equal to 400 grit . The movies show a chef using a rod , but apply the wrong pressure and you ruin the edge of your knife . A guide on a small electric grinder will shape your knife perfect , then hone with a folded piece of Wet-Or-Dry If the guide is well done , you can remove lots of metal to a perfect hollow ground "limit" . It will stop removing metal without undue deligence on your part . Cheap knives can be quick hardened by hammering the edge carefully , repeatedly . It improves the structure of the metal . Thailand has the best deals . I could get any size and shape for less than $1.50 , in brand "KIWI" . some cost $0.60 ! No plug for Thailand , they can't cook at all , but they make it look good . Buddy in Bangkok , BangPLE , cooked pork dish , back in 2003 , started by boiling the pork !! No meat has flavor , boiled ! ---------------------------- Now , home is Guadalajara MX . Raw stuff at Abastos Market : Carrots $.29/Kilo . Avacados $2.70 / Kilo ! Vanilla imitation 10 Liters = $14 . Brand "Palapa" ( the one without the Sodium benzoate and other preservatives ) Romano tomatoes , 5 kilo lugs , $1 / kilo . Potatoes $0.80 kilo . pure milk $0.78 liter , NO Vit D, A !!! Love it . 500 kilos of cheese , all in walking distance ! Guad' east along highway Zapotlanejo , towards San Juan de los Lagos , is dairy farms , thus excess milk/cheese products . This is unique in MX . I tried 20 stores in Tampico , one had milk made with veggy oil !! Guad' is pure cows milk , nothing added for the cost is unpopular with farmers . Go south to lake Chapala or Ahihik or Joco' and you'll not get this wholesale food source . Wholesale Abastos market , in Guad' is 26 city blocks BIG . E. of the Arcos Milenia , bus 214 . Sunday is a special mrkt for retailers , cause much of the wholesale outlets are closed . On Jul 7, 4:31 pm, "Clive H" > wrote: > Out of the traditional oilstone or the new diamond whetstones, which is > the best to use? |
Sharpening knifes
On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:32:09 -0400, "Joe Cilinceon"
> wrote in >: <snip> > >Yes I work mostly with hard Japanese kitchen cutlery not much with tools any >more. When I did tools it was also done dry as well. A high polish makes >these kitchen knives cut better than a scalpel in most cases and they hold >their edges a long time. As for waterstones though I also live where water >will freeze I sharpen in the house where it is warm and as I said the stones >only soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. After use they are cleaned and allowed >dry and stored. So you have one of those desk jobs?...:) |
Sharpening knifes
"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message
... > On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:32:09 -0400, "Joe Cilinceon" > > wrote in >: > > <snip> >> >>Yes I work mostly with hard Japanese kitchen cutlery not much with tools >>any >>more. When I did tools it was also done dry as well. A high polish makes >>these kitchen knives cut better than a scalpel in most cases and they hold >>their edges a long time. As for waterstones though I also live where water >>will freeze I sharpen in the house where it is warm and as I said the >>stones >>only soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. After use they are cleaned and >>allowed >>dry and stored. > > > So you have one of those desk jobs?...:) > > No I own a personal storage facility and semi retired now. Cooking and kitchen knives are kind of a hobby for me. Joe Cilinceon |
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