FoodBanter.com - Which KA stand mixer?

wrote:
> Which KitchenAid stand mixer would you purchase amongst:
>
> Classic 8 cup / 4.5 qt / 250W
> Ultra Power 8 cup / 4.5 qt / 300W
> Artisan 9 cup / 5 qt / 325W
>
> All are tilt head
> For the purposes of discussion ignore the (IMO, insignificant) price
> difference amongst these product lines.
>
<snip>

Sundram, if you're stuck on KA, read no further.

This was a recent review of such similar machines(including KA) in the
LA Times. A worthwhile read:

Pierre

>>From the Los Angeles Times
The mixer, all revved up
Six high-capacity mixers are put to tests and rated

By Judy Yao
Los Angeles Times Staff Writer

In the home baker's kitchen, the stand mixer is the undisputed
workhorse, whipping egg whites to perfect peaks, kneading bread
effortlessly and turning out cookie dough in a pinch.

But even then, it has its limits. Its motor can burn hot with too stiff
a dough. Or its bowl might be too small. Froth up too many egg whites
and they can get perilously close to the rim. And want to make a triple
batch of cookies all at once? Forget it.

Until recently, short of buying an expensive and gargantuan commercial
model, home bakers didn't have much choice but to work around such
shortcomings.

But the latest generation of stand mixers is changing that. Imagine a
home machine that can knead 7 pounds of flour for 10 loaves of bread,
or whip up 20 egg whites or make 13 dozen cookies. With bowls that hold
6 to 8 quarts (compared with the standard 4 1/2 ), these mixers also
have horsepower to spare.

We selected six high-capacity mixers to test, considering power,
functionality, design and price. They ranged from $350 for the
KitchenAid Professional 6 to a $770 for the Matfer Bourgeat Alphamix.
The other four cost between $400 and $500. We included the Bosch and
Electrolux, two mixers that are popular in Europe and radically
different in design from Kitchen Aid-type mixers.

Most stand mixers come with three attachments -- a whisk, a paddle and
a dough hook. Which to use when?

In general, the whisk, often the shape of a wire balloon, is designed
to incorporate air into whatever you're beating. So it's especially
good for meringues, whipped cream and sponge cakes. The flat paddle is
perfect for creaming butter and works well for cookies and frostings.
And the dough hook is the most specialized of the three; it's made for
kneading yeast breads.

Whichever attachment you use, keep an eye on your bowl no matter what a
recipe says. You need to watch against overworking the contents,
especially with one of these powerful mixers.

Speeds for the stand mixers we tested varied widely. What would be
considered a medium setting for the Bosch (which has four speed
settings) would be a 6 on the 12-speed Viking. A good rule: Always
start at the lowest setting and adjust accordingly. If flour is flying
everywhere, decrease the speed. When in doubt, check the manual; many
have recommended settings.

Four of the mixers (the KitchenAid, DeLonghi, Bosch and Matfer
Bourgeat) have automatic shut-off protection, which prevents motor
burnout. It's also worth noting that the mixers aren't limited to
making doubled recipes but can handle smaller quantities equally as
well. Just as their manuals promise, both the Viking and KitchenAid
(with some height adjustment) can whip a single egg white.

To test the mixers, we gave each attachment a task: For the whisk, we
tested how long it took to whip four egg whites to a stiff peak at the
highest speed setting. For the paddle, we gave it a creaming challenge:
a 4-ounce cube of cold butter, cut into four equal pieces. To test the
dough hook, we made a rustic hearth bread, enough for two loaves.

All the mixers passed the whipping and kneading tests. But it was the
creaming test that separated those that could from those that could
not.

Our least favorite was the Electrolux Assistent DLX 2000. Despite some
nice features, the assembly and disassembly of the various components
took some getting used to, and it failed the creaming test.

The clear winner was the DeLonghi DSM7, which performed each of the
tests brilliantly and was a joy to use. The more powerful (and more
pricey) Viking came in a close second.

It's gratifying to see the stand mixer catching up with the rest of the
kitchen. Recently, when I made a three-tiered anniversary cake for some
friends -- enough for 70 guests -- it quickly became apparent that
although my large oven could easily handle the cake pans, my mixer was
woefully inadequate. I had to make several batches of batter and
buttercream, which took a lot longer than I would have liked.

Next time, it'll be a breeze. I'll be ready -- and so will my new
mixer.

The unbeatable choice

At 980 watts, the 7-quart DeLonghi DSM7 was second only to the Viking
for power. With a super warranty -- 10 years for the motor -- its
makers obviously have confidence in this mixer. At 13 1/2 inches tall,
and with its flat top, this mixer will easily fit under most cabinets.
A locking lever makes sure everything is in place. Accessories include
a blender and food processor.

What we thought: Our favorite mixer. The DeLonghi easily passed the
tests -- whipping the egg whites to a stiff peak in 2 1/2 minutes,
creaming the cold butter in under a minute and churning out the bread
dough without a hint of strain. This well-designed mixer has a solid
feel and weight to it, combining function with well-thought-out
details, such as sturdy stainless steel attachments that were nonstick
and easy to clean. We did have a small quibble about the electric cord,
the shortest among the six mixers we tested. Still, its price, ease of
use and capacity make it an excellent choice.

How much: $399.95.

All powered up

The Viking 7-quart VSM 700 is powered at 1,000 watts, the highest among
the mixers we tested. It comes in white, black, stainless gray,
graphite gray, cobalt blue and bright red. It offers a one-year
warranty against manufacturing defects.

What we thought: This was a close second to the better-priced DeLonghi.
But if you want power and high-volume capability above all else, this
is the mixer for you. This machine not only looks cool, it packs a lot
of punch. Creaming the butter was a breeze at 20 seconds. And whipping
the whites and kneading the dough were no problem. Its bowl has an
ergonomic handle, and its tools are solid stainless steel. However, we
had trouble with locking its tilting head into place, occasionally
having to slam it down.

How much: $500.

Not up to speed

The 6-quart French-made Alphamix Mixer by Matfer Bourgeat offers a
three-year warranty on the motor and a one-year warranty for parts and
labor.

What we thought: As much as we liked this mixer for its performance,
some quirks made it difficult to recommend it wholeheartedly,
especially given its high price. The safety guard that lifts and lowers
the bowl makes it difficult to clean (the manual says the guard is
removable but doesn't give instructions). And for such an expensive
mixer, the aluminum tools were insubstantial. Although it creamed the
butter in an amazing 15 seconds, it traveled a bit on the counter
during the kneading test.

How much: $770.

The price is right

The 6-quart KitchenAid Professional 6, like its smaller professional
version, uses a handle to lower and lift the bowl. It offers a
hassle-free replacement warranty for defective materials or workmanship
during the first year. That includes shipping a replacement mixer and
arranging for the return of the failed mixer.

What we thought: If price is your main consideration, this mixer is a
good choice. It whipped the egg whites to a stiff peak in less than a
minute and had no problems creaming the butter (but bits of butter flew
out, so the pouring shield is a must). It kneaded our bread dough with
ease, but whined loudly while doing so -- very irritating. And though
its rubber feet are designed to prevent traveling, two of them fell off
during testing. However, if you've used a KitchenAid before, using the
KitchenAid Professional 6 mixer is like working with an old friend --
comfortingly familiar despite a few flaws.

How much: $350.

A bit rocky

The 6-quart Bosch MUM7010's motor is on the bottom and the bowl sits on
top. Unlike the other mixers, the Bosch combines its paddle and dough
hook into one tool. Since the power unit is only 3 1/4 inches high, it
can be stored in a drawer. It also includes a food processor and
blender.

What we thought: Not worth it. It's unsteady, rocking especially during
kneading, and it failed the simple task of creaming butter. Sure, its
double whisks whipped the egg whites to a stiff peak in less than 2
minutes. But it wouldn't cream butter. After 3 minutes of watching
butter cubes being moved around the bowl, we had to stop. The heat from
the motor had started to melt the butter, but chunks remained on the
blades. And despite what the manual says, the plastic bowl doesn't seem
to lock in place.

How much: $479.

Advanced degree needed

The 8-quart Swedish-made Electrolux Assistent DLX 2000 is popular in
Europe but has been slow to catch on in the United States. Like the
Bosch, the power unit is the base and the bowl sits on top. It has a
timer with a maximum setting of 12 minutes, and the speed dial lights
up for visibility. It uses a scraper and roller or dough hook.

What we thought: A mixer shouldn't be this hard to use. A simple height
adjustment required a screwdriver. The arm assembly was stiff, and the
pin holding the attachments was hard to clean. Overall, it was too much
work to assemble and disassemble. And though it passed the whipping and
kneading tests, it failed miserably in the creaming test. The cubes of
butter kept getting caught between the scrapper and roller. We added
sugar, hoping that the friction would dislodge the butter. What we got,
instead of creamed butter, were sugar-coated butter balls.

How much: $469.

Note: Prices will vary depending on your source.

Savory hearth bread

Total time: 1 hour, 25 minutes plus about 5 hours rising time
Servings: 16 to 20 ( makes 2 loaves)

Notes: Adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum's "The Bread Bible." Serrano
ham is available at Trader Joe's markets, Bristol Farms markets; you
can use prosciutto instead.

Dough starter (sponge):
2 cups bread flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
3/4 tsp. dry yeast
2 1/2 tsps. honey
About 2 2/3 cups water (70 to 90 degrees)

In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the bread flour, whole wheat
flour and yeast. Stir together the honey and water and add to the flour
mixture. Whisk until very smooth, about 2 minutes, until the sponge is
the consistency of a thick batter. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Set aside, covered with plastic wrap.

Bread:
3 3/4 cups bread flour
1 tsp. dry yeast
2 1/2 tsps. salt
1 cup finely chopped Serrano ham
1 cup grated Dry Jack cheese, such as Vella

1. In a bowl, stir together the bread flour and the yeast. Gently scoop
it onto the sponge to cover it completely. Cover with plastic wrap and
allow to ferment for 1 to 1 1/2 hours in a warm place. (The sponge will
bubble through the flour mixture.)

2. Place the bowl on the mixer and, using the dough hook, mix at low
speed for about 1 minute, until the mixture forms a rough dough. Scrape
down any bits of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and allow the dough to
rest for 20 minutes.

3. Sprinkle in the salt and, using the dough hook, knead the dough at
medium for about 7 minutes, until it is very elastic, smooth and
slightly sticky. If it is too sticky, knead in a little flour. If it is
not at all sticky, spray it with a little water and knead it in.

4. Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough into an
oiled large bowl and turn the dough to lightly coat it with oil. Cover
with plastic wrap. Allow the dough to rise in a warm (75- to 80-degree)
place until doubled in bulk, about 50 to 60 minutes.

5. Punch the dough down and knead several times. Shape it into a ball.
Add a little oil to the bowl. Return the dough to the bowl and turn it
to coat with oil. Cover and allow it to rise again until doubled, about
45 minutes to 1 hour.

6. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and press it
down to flatten slightly.

7. To make two free-form round loaves, cut the dough in half. Cover one
half with plastic wrap. Knead the other half by hand for about 7
minutes, working 1/2 cup each of the ham and cheese into the dough
throughout the kneading process. Shape into a ball and set it on an
oiled baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, ham and cheese.

8. Cover the shaped dough with a large container or oiled plastic wrap
and allow it to rise until almost doubled, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

9. Place an oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone on
it. Place a sheet pan on the floor of the oven. An hour before you plan
to bake, heat the oven to 475 degrees, allowing the stone to get very
hot.

10. With a sharp knife, make several 1/2-inch-deep slashes in the top
of the dough to make a cross-hatch pattern. Mist the dough with water
and quickly set the dough, on its baking sheet, on the hot stone. Toss
1/2 cup of ice cubes onto the pan on the floor of the oven and
immediately shut the oven door.

11. Bake the bread, one loaf at a time if necessary, for 10 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 425 and continue baking for 20 to 30 minutes,
rotating the pan after 10 minutes. Bake until the bread is brown and a
skewer comes out clean; an instant thermometer will register 200
degrees.

12. For an extra-crisp crust, transfer the bread from the baking sheet
to the stone and leave it in the oven for an extra 5 to 10 minutes with
the door ajar. Remove the bread from the oven and transfer it to a wire
rack. Let cool completely.

Nutrition information for one 20 servings:
189 calories; 8 grams protein; 32 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 3
grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 10 mg. cholesterol; 431 mg. sodium