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How flat does cookware need to be for a smoothtop range?
Am getting (with some mixed feelings) a new smoothtop range (gas isn't
an option, and noble leader said I could get coils "if I _really_ wanted to", which I took to mean that I really shouldn't, if I knew what was good for me...) I have checked some of my cookware with a straight edge, and it's all _close_ to flat, but not completely. The Calphalon (anodized) pieces are pretty good, the random aluminum disk pieces are OK, but the Kirkland (tri-ply All-Clad knock off, which are my main cookware) vary, with none of them ruler flat, and some with substantial gaps. Mind you, by substantial, I'm talking a millimeter or so (except toward the edge of the largest piece, where the gap gets larger), but there's definite daylight, and the pan will not be making physical contact with the burner across its entire surface. The question is - how critical is this? Second question, if it _is_ critical for the pans to be completely flat: is there any practical way to flatten the bottom of a tri-ply pan without damaging it? ted |
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"Ted Goldblatt" > wrote in message
... > Am getting (with some mixed feelings) a new smoothtop range (gas isn't > an option, and noble leader said I could get coils "if I _really_ wanted > to", which I took to mean that I really shouldn't, if I knew what was > good for me...) > > I have checked some of my cookware with a straight edge, and it's all > _close_ to flat, but not completely. The Calphalon (anodized) pieces > are pretty good, the random aluminum disk pieces are OK, but the > Kirkland (tri-ply All-Clad knock off, which are my main cookware) vary, > with none of them ruler flat, and some with substantial gaps. Mind you, > by substantial, I'm talking a millimeter or so (except toward the edge > of the largest piece, where the gap gets larger), but there's definite > daylight, and the pan will not be making physical contact with the > burner across its entire surface. The question is - how critical is this? > > Second question, if it _is_ critical for the pans to be completely flat: > is there any practical way to flatten the bottom of a tri-ply pan > without damaging it? > > ted Perfectly flat bottoms are nice but not necessary. They are also essentially impossible to achieve. I have had a flattop for the last 5 years and have a wide variety of pan types including copper, All-clad, cast iron, etc. Here's my experience. - If the pan is flat or close to flat it will work fine. - If the pan is not quite flat it is better for it to be bowed in a little than bowed out. - If the pan is bowed in a lot it will work but with less efficient heat transfer. - If the pan is bowed out a lot it will tend to rock or spin on the element and may be dangerous. I had luck flattening the bottom of some bowed-out pans with a heavy rubber mallet. -- Peter Aitken Remove the crap from my email address before using. |
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Ted Goldblatt wrote:
> Am getting (with some mixed feelings) a new smoothtop range (gas isn't > an option, and noble leader said I could get coils "if I _really_ wanted > to", which I took to mean that I really shouldn't, if I knew what was > good for me...) > > I have checked some of my cookware with a straight edge, and it's all > _close_ to flat, but not completely. The Calphalon (anodized) pieces > are pretty good, the random aluminum disk pieces are OK, but the > Kirkland (tri-ply All-Clad knock off, which are my main cookware) vary, > with none of them ruler flat, and some with substantial gaps. Mind you, > by substantial, I'm talking a millimeter or so (except toward the edge > of the largest piece, where the gap gets larger), but there's definite > daylight, and the pan will not be making physical contact with the > burner across its entire surface. The question is - how critical is this? > > Second question, if it _is_ critical for the pans to be completely flat: > is there any practical way to flatten the bottom of a tri-ply pan > without damaging it? > Flat bottoms matter, at least in my experience. I spent a few hundred USD on ebay picking up Magnalite pots and pans. They are cast magnesium and aluminum alloy that have ground flat bottoms. All of the ones I got were made in Ohio. They work very well. YMMV. The professional series have a non-stick interior. I chose the classic style as I have no real problem with the reactivity. I can't taste the pots in my food. Matthew -- Thermodynamics and/or Golf for dummies: There is a game You can't win You can't break even You can't get out of the game |
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"Ted Goldblatt" > wrote in message > > I have checked some of my cookware with a straight edge, and it's all > _close_ to flat, but not completely. The Calphalon (anodized) pieces > are pretty good, the random aluminum disk pieces are OK, but the > Kirkland (tri-ply All-Clad knock off, which are my main cookware) vary, > with none of them ruler flat, and some with substantial gaps. Heat the pan and then check it. Metal will expand when heated and the bottom can change shape a bit. |
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