Has anyone ordered from
http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.

I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
missing.

Thanks.
Dee

In article .com>, on 4
Mar 2007 11:13:01 -0800, Dee Dee wrote:

> Has anyone ordered from
> http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> missing.


I did a small order from them in December. I ordered on Saturday, they
shipped UPS Ground on Monday, with a shipping notice and UPS tracking #
by email. I was pleased, and will order from them again.

--
Seth Goodman

They are a fine company. They are mentioned now and then in Cooks
Illustrated, as a place to by certain items. I ordered a knife, but
it arrived flawed, and it was replaced promptly. They offer free
shipping after a certain price point.

Dee Dee wrote:
> Has anyone ordered from
> http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> missing.
>
> Thanks.
> Dee

We have one a couple of blocks away so we usually just go there. If their
service is as good on line as in the stores you should be happy. I don't own
any Emerilware but have looked at it many times. All Clad is a touch to
expensive for me and I don't care for the angles of their handles. However
the Emerilware seems to have fixed both the price and handles. I have a
Wolfgang Puck set of stainless pots and pan that I'm very happy with at this
time.


--

Joe Cilinceon

On Mar 4, 3:05 pm, "Joe Cilinceon" > wrote:
> Dee Dee wrote:
> > Has anyone ordered from
> >http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> > and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> > order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> > from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> > I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> > I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> > groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> > missing.
>
> > Thanks.
> > Dee
>
> We have one a couple of blocks away so we usually just go there. If their
> service is as good on line as in the stores you should be happy. I don't own
> any Emerilware but have looked at it many times. All Clad is a touch to
> expensive for me and I don't care for the angles of their handles. However
> the Emerilware seems to have fixed both the price and handles. I have a
> Wolfgang Puck set of stainless pots and pan that I'm very happy with at this
> time.
>
> --
>
> Joe Cilinceon

Thanks all. I just ordered the Emeriware 12" pan from them. Thanks
for your help.
If not for you-all.....
Dee

> Has anyone ordered from
> http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> missing.
>
> Thanks.
> Dee
>

I ordered a John Boos cutting board from Cutlery & More. I was very
pleased. It was very heavy and expensive. Normally I try to buy most
things locally where you can get 20% off (BB&B, etc.). Couldn't locate it
locally so I ordered from Cutlery & More (believe it was my second order)and
a good thing that I didn't have to tote home a 26 lb. Countertop Board.
BTW, I have am almost exclusively an All-Clad user and am pleased . I've
never used Emerilware.

On one of my recent trips to BB&B I asked about their coupon that says "not
valid with All-Clad, etc". The checkout person told me that they do give
you the 20% discount in spite of what the coupon says... go figure...

On Mar 4, 5:10 pm, \(no spam\)"
> wrote:
> > Has anyone ordered from
> >http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> > and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> > order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> > from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> > I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> > I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> > groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> > missing.
>
> > Thanks.
> > Dee
>
> I ordered a John Boos cutting board from Cutlery & More. I was very
> pleased. It was very heavy and expensive. Normally I try to buy most
> things locally where you can get 20% off (BB&B, etc.). Couldn't locate it
> locally so I ordered from Cutlery & More (believe it was my second order)and
> a good thing that I didn't have to tote home a 26 lb. Countertop Board.
> BTW, I have am almost exclusively an All-Clad user and am pleased . I've
> never used Emerilware.
>
> On one of my recent trips to BB&B I asked about their coupon that says "not
> valid with All-Clad, etc". The checkout person told me that they do give
> you the 20% discount in spite of what the coupon says... go figure...


Thanks for your interesting reply. When I was on Cutlery's site, I
was interested in all the brands I'd not heard of; Boos being one, and
their countertop boards did look nice.

You say that you are an All-Clad user and are pleased; I used to
always be tempted by ScanPan; one doesn't hear much about it, and I've
never bought a piece of it.
Dee

"Dee Dee" > wrote:
> I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> missing.

I'm coming into this late again and see you've already ordered.

I just wanted to clear up a misconception you might have. That is, "made by
All-Clad". A more accurate description might be "designed by All-Clad with
input from Emeril, made in the Far East (outsourced) with some other
company". Even a lot of All-Clad branded products are not actually made by
All-Clad these days. The ones that are made by All-Clad themselves is pretty
much confined to their fully clad (up the sides) All-Clad branded products.
All of their utensils, all of their aluminum disk bottom cookware is made by
someone else. It may be a joint venture they have going, but it is still not
what I consider an actual All-Clad product.

All-Clad itself used to be a Pennsylvania based company with manufacturing
in Pennsylvania, but last I checked it was itself under foreign ownership...
several times! It was owned by Waterford-Wedgewood (Ireland) for a while,
but is now owned by SEB (France). But that was last summer. Who knows who
owns it now.

All this doesn't necessarily have much to do with the quality of the
Emerilware products. You'll have to judge that for yourself. I do have quite
a number of All-Clad pieces (USA made) and am very satisfied with them, but
given the choice again I wouldn't get the LTD line (anodized exterior) as it
is harder to keep clean. For that matter, given the choice again, I'm not
sure I'd get All-Clad. I'd have to evaluate what's out there now.

>> I ordered a John Boos cutting board from Cutlery & More. I was very
>> pleased. It was very heavy and expensive. Normally I try to buy most
>> things locally where you can get 20% off (BB&B, etc.). Couldn't locate
>> it
>> locally so I ordered from Cutlery & More (believe it was my second
>> order)and
>> a good thing that I didn't have to tote home a 26 lb. Countertop Board.
>> BTW, I have am almost exclusively an All-Clad user and am pleased .
>> I've
>> never used Emerilware.
>>
>> On one of my recent trips to BB&B I asked about their coupon that says
>> "not
>> valid with All-Clad, etc". The checkout person told me that they do give
>> you the 20% discount in spite of what the coupon says... go figure...
>
>
> Thanks for your interesting reply. When I was on Cutlery's site, I
> was interested in all the brands I'd not heard of; Boos being one, and
> their countertop boards did look nice.
>
> You say that you are an All-Clad user and are pleased; I used to
> always be tempted by ScanPan; one doesn't hear much about it, and I've
> never bought a piece of it.
> Dee
>
>

John Boos is that brand of cutting boards that you see on the Food
Channel... wouldn't know if that makes the brand any better or worse <g>

I'm very pleased with mine. One thing I did find out about cutting boards
is to avoid the bamboo ones.

I love having a large surface for chopping and am thinking about removing my
Corian-topped island and replacing the top with a maple cutting board
surface for the whole island.

Bottom line though is that you should be pleased with the Cutlery & More
people.

(no spam) wrote:

>
> I'm very pleased with mine. One thing I did find out about cutting boards
> is to avoid the bamboo ones.
>
What is it that you dislike about bamboo boards?

One thing I did find out about cutting boards
>> is to avoid the bamboo ones.
>>
> What is it that you dislike about bamboo boards?

Never bought one because of advice I received when checking into cutting
boards. I was told they had a slick surface and everyone I talked to that
had purchased one hated it.

Did look at them at BB&B and they do feel slick to the touch.

"Dee Dee" > wrote in message
> Thanks for your interesting reply. When I was on Cutlery's site, I
> was interested in all the brands I'd not heard of; Boos being one, and
> their countertop boards did look nice.

I never heard of them until recently either. They have been around since
1887 though. They have a lot of commercial products and I think the home
stuff is relatively recent. www.johnboos.com

On Mar 4, 7:47 pm, "wff_ng_7" > wrote:
> "Dee Dee" > wrote:
> > I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> > I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> > groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> > missing.
>
>
> I just wanted to clear up a misconception you might have. That is, "made by
> All-Clad". A more accurate description might be "designed by All-Clad with
> input from Emeril, made in the Far East (outsourced) with some other
> company". Even a lot of All-Clad branded products are not actually made by
> All-Clad these days. The ones that are made by All-Clad themselves is pretty
> much confined to their fully clad (up the sides) All-Clad branded products.
> All of their utensils, all of their aluminum disk bottom cookware is made by
> someone else. It may be a joint venture they have going, but it is still not
> what I consider an actual All-Clad product.

I'm sure that fully-clad will always make a difference in cooking in
pots and fry-pans with covers, but I'm thinking that fry pans might
not need the fully-clad feature 'As Much.' Just a ponderance on my
part. That's a job for America's Test Kitchen or CI.

>
> All-Clad itself used to be a Pennsylvania based company with manufacturing
> in Pennsylvania, but last I checked it was itself under foreign ownership...
> several times! It was owned by Waterford-Wedgewood (Ireland) for a while,
> but is now owned by SEB (France). But that was last summer. Who knows who
> owns it now.

I am left to wonder if Ireland or France are outsourcing to Far
Eastern Countries.
I prefer to buy Italian (made) cookware or electrical appliances, but
that's not easy to find
>
> All this doesn't necessarily have much to do with the quality of the
> Emerilware products. You'll have to judge that for yourself. I do have quite
> a number of All-Clad pieces (USA made) and am very satisfied with them, but
> given the choice again I wouldn't get the LTD line (anodized exterior) as it
> is harder to keep clean. For that matter, given the choice again, I'm not
> sure I'd get All-Clad. I'd have to evaluate what's out there now.

I will be evaluating the 12" Emerilware skillet against the Kirkland
Italian-made stainless 8" and 10" skillets, which I like. The
descriptions sound similar, but it's hard to break apart the
vernacular. Fully clad is easy to understand.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Dee

Dee Dee wrote:
>
> Thanks for your interesting reply. When I was on Cutlery's site, I
> was interested in all the brands I'd not heard of; Boos being one, and
> their countertop boards did look nice.
>
> You say that you are an All-Clad user and are pleased; I used to
> always be tempted by ScanPan; one doesn't hear much about it, and I've
> never bought a piece of it.
> Dee

Here is a guy that makes boards that rival even Boos boards and much
cheaper. http://www.theboardsmith.net./

--

Joe Cilinceon

On Mar 5, 7:58 am, "Joe Cilinceon" > wrote:
> Dee Dee wrote:
When I was on Cutlery's site, I
> > was interested in all the brands I'd not heard of; Boos being one, and
> > their countertop boards did look nice.
>

> Here is a guy that makes boards that rival even Boos boards and much
> cheaper.http://www.theboardsmith.net./
>
>
> Joe Cilinceon

That's very interesting. I did a compare on his ebay site and in
order of price, hard maple was lowest, then closest to hard maple was
african mahogany; then 50% more is black cherry - $100 hard maple, vs.
$155 for black cherry.

There is a black cherry tree in my yard identified by a landscape man
years ago. It is very tall. He asked me if I was thinking of selling
it; that a lot of people would like it for cabinetry. I hadn't
thought of the value for it for 'cutting boards.'

Researching just now an Oregon myrtlewood
http://www.myrtlewoodgallery.com/what_is_myrtlewood.htm
I bought a large cutting board made from it years ago on a coastal
trip, a big hunk about 6" thick that was polished up for a cutting
board which I used many years and got tired of hauling it around. I
don't know how it ranks in hardness compared to the hard maple,
african mahogany or black cherry. It seemed pretty hard at the time.
Nowadays I just use plastic boards.

By Joe Yonan
The Washington Post
Published: Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Question: How long does a good wooden cutting board last? Mine is
about 2 years old and is starting to get a bit of an odor. I use it
frequently, washing it with warm soapy water. Am I doing something
wrong?

Answer: You probably haven't kept up with the oiling, which seals
wood. Whenever the board seems dry, rub it down with mineral or other
food-safe oil, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe away the
excess.

For ideas on getting that odor out, we asked John Boos & Co., maker of
high-quality boards and butcher blocks. The company recommends
sprinkling the board liberally with salt, then using cut lemon or lime
quarters to rub the salt in, squeezing juice as you go. Let it sit for
a few minutes, then wipe with a damp cloth. Boos president Joe
Emmerich says that with proper care under normal use, a good board
will last indefinitely. ``I have some at home that are more than 25
years old,'' he says.

Hmmm. My maiden name is Emmerich (a spelling variation), wonder if I
can get a deal? :-))

Thanks for the info, Joe.
Dee

Dee Dee wrote:
> That's very interesting. I did a compare on his ebay site and in
> order of price, hard maple was lowest, then closest to hard maple was
> african mahogany; then 50% more is black cherry - $100 hard maple, vs.
> $155 for black cherry.
>
> There is a black cherry tree in my yard identified by a landscape man
> years ago. It is very tall. He asked me if I was thinking of selling
> it; that a lot of people would like it for cabinetry. I hadn't
> thought of the value for it for 'cutting boards.'
>
> Researching just now an Oregon myrtlewood
> http://www.myrtlewoodgallery.com/what_is_myrtlewood.htm
> I bought a large cutting board made from it years ago on a coastal
> trip, a big hunk about 6" thick that was polished up for a cutting
> board which I used many years and got tired of hauling it around. I
> don't know how it ranks in hardness compared to the hard maple,
> african mahogany or black cherry. It seemed pretty hard at the time.
> Nowadays I just use plastic boards.
>
> By Joe Yonan
> The Washington Post
> Published: Wednesday, February 21, 2007
>
> Question: How long does a good wooden cutting board last? Mine is
> about 2 years old and is starting to get a bit of an odor. I use it
> frequently, washing it with warm soapy water. Am I doing something
> wrong?
>
> Answer: You probably haven't kept up with the oiling, which seals
> wood. Whenever the board seems dry, rub it down with mineral or other
> food-safe oil, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe away the
> excess.
>
> For ideas on getting that odor out, we asked John Boos & Co., maker of
> high-quality boards and butcher blocks. The company recommends
> sprinkling the board liberally with salt, then using cut lemon or lime
> quarters to rub the salt in, squeezing juice as you go. Let it sit for
> a few minutes, then wipe with a damp cloth. Boos president Joe
> Emmerich says that with proper care under normal use, a good board
> will last indefinitely. ``I have some at home that are more than 25
> years old,'' he says.
>
> Hmmm. My maiden name is Emmerich (a spelling variation), wonder if I
> can get a deal? :-))
>
> Thanks for the info, Joe.
> Dee

The last wooden board I had lasted me about 30 years and it was maple. I use
only poly now however mostly due to space restrictions. My old wooden board
was really large, so I gave it to one of my kids who is still using it. It
has lasted close to 40 years now and still going strong. I recommend only
buying end grain boards as they are easier on the knife and less apt to
warp. Now that is just my personal opinion and I could be wrong.

--

Joe Cilinceon

"Dee Dee" > wrote:
> I'm sure that fully-clad will always make a difference in cooking in
> pots and fry-pans with covers, but I'm thinking that fry pans might
> not need the fully-clad feature 'As Much.' Just a ponderance on my
> part. That's a job for America's Test Kitchen or CI.

That's certainly true about whether it makes any difference at all in a fry
pan. I've got both fully clad (the All Clad LTD stuff, bought between
1992-96) and aluminum disk bottom cookware (of Korean manufacture, bought
around 1986). For most things, the aluminum disk bottom cookware is fine
with regard to performance, and when it isn't fine it's just a minor
annoyance. But there are other things that truly annoy me with the Korean
set vs. the All Clad set. First is the handles and rolled rims tend to trap
water when washed, and second, the lid design traps water when one tries to
drain a pot. So I tend to use the All Clad most often.

> I am left to wonder if Ireland or France are outsourcing to Far
> Eastern Countries.
> I prefer to buy Italian (made) cookware or electrical appliances, but
> that's not easy to find

Yes, just because it's a Irish or French company, doesn't mean it isn't made
someplace else entirely! ;-) I did some quick research on who owned All
Clad, and one of the things I came across was the fact that Wedgewood's
earthenware line was manufactured in China now. And of course, the Le
Creuset stoneware line is made in Thailand.

The thing that bothers me about all of this is we are charged a premium
price for certain brands, based on reputation, loyalty, and goodwill, and
yet the products are made by some other totally unrelated company in a far
off land (at least far off from where one would think, i.e., China vs.
England). The companies try to invoke a very nice warm and fuzzy image of
where the product is made, like craftsmen working the rolling hills of the
English countryside, while the reality is some huge factory in China. My
sister recently bought a couple of Bodum double wall glass cups, and
commented to me that though the cups were made in China, the picture on the
box is clearly of European glassblowers. She asked if shouldn't the
glassblowers pictured be Chinese? Bodum is a Swiss company.

I've been called a racist before in newsgroups for pointing out these
differences in where a manufacturer likes to pretend their products are
made, vs. where they really are. I believe in truth in advertising. If a
company is consciously trying to deceive the consumer and take advantage of
goodwill that really isn't warranted, I believe they should be called on it.

The use of names that have a large amount of goodwill in them but now have
absolutely no connection to the original company, and no reason for the
goodwill to exist, is quite common these days. Westinghouse is probably a
good example of the this practice. If you go to the Westinghouse web site
(www.westinghouse.com), you will see a selection of different product areas.
Click on each product area, and you will be directed to a different
company's web site that happens to be licensing the Westinghouse name.
Strangely, down in the lower center right all by itself is "Westinghouse
Nuclear". Click on this link, and you will be taken to the only true
descendent of the original Westinghouse founded by George Westinghouse in
the 1800s. The rest are imposters. In some cases, all they did was bid the
highest price for use of the Westinghouse name.

> > I am left to wonder if Ireland or France are outsourcing to Far
> > Eastern Countries.
> > I prefer to buy Italian (made) cookware or electrical appliances, but
> > that's not easy to find.
>
My sister recently bought a couple of Bodum double wall glass cups,
and
> commented to me that though the cups were made in China, the picture on the
> box is clearly of European glassblowers. She asked if shouldn't the
> glassblowers pictured be Chinese? Bodum is a Swiss company.


Next thing you know (if it isn't already?) Murano glass blown in Italy
will be outsourced to be blown cheaper elsewhere under the supervision
of Murano's experts, or maybe even not under their supervision, who
knows. I'm very sceptical about all of this because we cannot seem to
keep up with the shenanigans.
I am thinking of this because I was there many years ago; Costco
stores this month will have some jewelry made of Murano glass being
for sale at some stores at various weekends.


>
> I've been called a racist before in newsgroups for pointing out these
> differences in where a manufacturer likes to pretend their products are
> made, vs. where they really are. I believe in truth in advertising.

Half the people are 'under average IQ'. :-))

Dee

> Here is a guy that makes boards that rival even Boos boards and much
> cheaper. http://www.theboardsmith.net./
>
> --
>
> Joe Cilinceon
>
>
>

Joe,

I know you didn't mean that message for me, but you may have done me a big
favor! My husband and myself love our large Boos board so much that we
would like to turn our kitchen island top into one large cutting board, but
didn't know how to proceed. I see these people do that.

Chris in Pearland, TX

On Mar 5, 10:35 am, "wff_ng_7" > wrote:
> "Dee Dee" > wrote:

A postscript to my last posting. DH just reminded me that a
contractor that we had do some work who came from Romania said that in
Romania now that factory workers are being BROUGHT IN FROM CHINA
because the Romanians are leaving to look for higher pay.

I have read that Romania and Bulgaria have joined the EU, and am
wondering if all that good 'jarred' preserves that the first
ingredient is fruit - not sugar, and the great red pepper/eggplant
relishes will be made with lesser quality oils. We shall see.

"Dee Dee" > wrote:
> Next thing you know (if it isn't already?) Murano glass blown in Italy
> will be outsourced to be blown cheaper elsewhere under the supervision
> of Murano's experts, or maybe even not under their supervision, who
> knows. I'm very sceptical about all of this because we cannot seem to
> keep up with the shenanigans.
> I am thinking of this because I was there many years ago; Costco
> stores this month will have some jewelry made of Murano glass being
> for sale at some stores at various weekends.

Funny you should mention Murano glass. I saw a TV news segment on it in the
past couple of months. True Murano glass probably won't be around for a lot
longer. The sons of the craftsmen are not taking up the trade, and then
there's the competition from Chinese fakes. The average consumer probably
can't tell the difference between a fake and the real thing, and many just
don't care anyway. Perhaps the sons of the craftsmen know that their skills
won't be valued in the face of this.

One of the current buzzwords used by (younger) society is "authentic". It's
pretty amazing how big business (and politics, etc.) can manipulate people's
perceptions of things such that they think something is "authentic". It's
actually quite easy considering how shallow some people are.

(no spam) wrote:
>> Here is a guy that makes boards that rival even Boos boards and much
>> cheaper. http://www.theboardsmith.net./
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joe Cilinceon
>>
>>
>>
>
> Joe,
>
> I know you didn't mean that message for me, but you may have done me a big
> favor! My husband and myself love our large Boos board so much that we
> would like to turn our kitchen island top into one large cutting board, but
> didn't know how to proceed. I see these people do that.
>
> Chris in Pearland, TX
>
>

We actually have an island cutting board made by John Boos and it
wasn't expensive at all, in fact it was cheaper than the specialty wood
counters we had looked at earlier. We ordered it through our kitchen
design store as I didn't see a mention of it on the official Boos
website in the size we needed. Our island is 3 x 7. Try asking at a
kitchen place that carries John Boos. I never thought I could afford
such a large board but it wasn't bad at all. You can see the island in
this Webshot album. Look at the last 2 photos to see the finished
island. And yes, the house is still a construction project but with some
homey touches. lol!

Melondy

(no spam) wrote:
>> Here is a guy that makes boards that rival even Boos boards and much
>> cheaper. http://www.theboardsmith.net./
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joe Cilinceon
>>
>>
>>
>
> Joe,
>
> I know you didn't mean that message for me, but you may have done me
> a big favor! My husband and myself love our large Boos board so much
> that we would like to turn our kitchen island top into one large
> cutting board, but didn't know how to proceed. I see these people do
> that.
> Chris in Pearland, TX

All I can say about this guys work is it is excellent. I have seen 3 boards
he built and they are outstanding. I understand from a buddy that he built a
custom island type top for that it fit perfectly. He sent the guy the
measurements and got the top back in a few weeks exactly as ordered. I can't
vouch for that since I haven't seen it, but my buddy is pretty picky. He is
probably a little cheaper than Boos but I can't swear to that though.

--

Joe Cilinceon

>> Joe,
>>
>> I know you didn't mean that message for me, but you may have done me
>> a big favor! My husband and myself love our large Boos board so much
>> that we would like to turn our kitchen island top into one large
>> cutting board, but didn't know how to proceed. I see these people do
>> that.
>> Chris in Pearland, TX
>
> All I can say about this guys work is it is excellent. I have seen 3
> boards he built and they are outstanding. I understand from a buddy that
> he built a custom island type top for that it fit perfectly. He sent the
> guy the measurements and got the top back in a few weeks exactly as
> ordered. I can't vouch for that since I haven't seen it, but my buddy is
> pretty picky. He is probably a little cheaper than Boos but I can't swear
> to that though.
>
> --
>
> Joe Cilinceon

My husband wrote to get an estimate for what it might cost... here's their
answer and also a picture of the kitchen that includes the island.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7212057@N07/


Hi Richard,

A hard maple butcher block as you describe in a full 2 inch thickness is

$428.07 plus shipping. I can only estimate the shipping charges at

approximately $85.00.

As for a recommendation, the maple you specified would make a great top.

Mahogany is lighter and almost burgundy, cherry is very pinkish yet very

subtle and expensive in its appearance. Maple is the heaviest, densest

and

hardest but is the least colorful, almost a palomino color. But its

strength makes it the best choice by far.

If you need any further information, either email me or call me at 336

803-0434 and I will be happy to work with you.

Thanks,

David

> Hi,

>

> I have a Kitchen Island that is 26" by 50" with cabinets underneath. I

> am

> looking for a 1 1/2" to 2" thick maple butcher block top with a full

13"

> radius on one end to replace the Corian top has now. What do you

recommend

> and would I need to use a cabinet maker to install it?

(no spam) wrote:
> One thing I did find out about cutting boards
>>> is to avoid the bamboo ones.
>>>
>> What is it that you dislike about bamboo boards?
>
> Never bought one because of advice I received when checking into cutting
> boards. I was told they had a slick surface and everyone I talked to that
> had purchased one hated it.
>
> Did look at them at BB&B and they do feel slick to the touch.

I have several bamboo cutting boards. I experience no real difference
between bamboo and maple except the bamboo I have is much thicker and
heavier than maple. I like them better than the South American hardwood
Faberware I otherwise have to buy because SWMBO won't stop soaking
cutting boards in the sink.

Matthew

--
I'm a consultant. If you want an opinion I'll sell you one.
Which one do you want?

Matthew L. Martin wrote:
> (no spam) wrote:
>> One thing I did find out about cutting boards
>>>> is to avoid the bamboo ones.
>>>>
>>> What is it that you dislike about bamboo boards?
>>
>> Never bought one because of advice I received when checking into
>> cutting boards. I was told they had a slick surface and everyone I
>> talked to that had purchased one hated it.
>>
>> Did look at them at BB&B and they do feel slick to the touch.
>
> I have several bamboo cutting boards. I experience no real difference
> between bamboo and maple except the bamboo I have is much thicker and
> heavier than maple. I like them better than the South American
> hardwood Faberware I otherwise have to buy because SWMBO won't stop
> soaking cutting boards in the sink.
>
> Matthew

I have a couple of Bamboo knife blocks and my only problem with it as a
cutting board is the fact it isn't solid pieces of wood. It is really a
laminate the same with flooring. I've never used a Bamboo cutting board so I
can't say what it is really like and could be just fine. I just have my
doubts about the binding material they would use to make a board.

--

Joe Cilinceon

"Dee Dee" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Has anyone ordered from
> http://www.cutleryandmore.com/
> and found them to be reliable in most all aspects we rely on when we
> order online. I've never seen this site previously. I generally order
> from Amazon and Fantes. But it looks terrific.
>
> I want to order the 12" Emerilware skillet/frypan (made by All-Clad).
> I've read most of the Emerilware vs. All-Clad by searching the
> groups; and as I've never owned All-Clad, I don't know what I'm
> missing.
>
> Thanks.
> Dee
>
>
Dee, I don't own All-Clad, but I am somewhat an equipment junkie, and I have
two problems with All-Clad.
1. None of their cookware has a pouring lip. When you want to pour a
small amount from either a saucepan or a skillet, you can't do it drop by
drop. I have the old Cuisinart copper clad cookware, and all of that
cookware had a pouring lip. I can pour to the drop with either the skillet
or the saucepan. It's more difficult with the skillet.
2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper on
the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the heat
source
below. What heat moves up the sides is miniscule. The extra weight and heft
of the fully clad cookware is something I wouldn't want.
3. Copper clad is much better than aluminum clad, if you can find the
former, as copper is a much better conductor of heat than aluminum. Given
the
recent runup in copper prices you would have to deal with the price issue.
There appears to be precious little copper clad cookware around.

Kent

"Kent" > wrote:
> 2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper
> on the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the
> heat source
> below. What heat moves up the sides is miniscule. The extra weight and
> heft
> of the fully clad cookware is something I wouldn't want.

The problem is on a gas stove, the heat is not all at the bottom of the pan.
A significant amount goes up the side of the pan. On my non-fully clad
cookware, there tends to be a zone right around the diameter of the pan
where contents tend to boil or burn. On the fully clad cookware, this effect
is not as pronounced, as the heat on the sides is more even. This problem
tends to happen more with smaller amounts in the pan. If one was just
boiling a full pot of water, it really wouldn't matter if the pot was clad
at all, bottom or sides.

I suppose the effects are going to be different on an electric or induction
stove, because the heat is concentrated almost totally on the pan bottom.

On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:22:30 -0800, "Kent" > wrote:

>Dee, I don't own All-Clad, but I am somewhat an equipment junkie, and I have
>two problems with All-Clad.
>1. None of their cookware has a pouring lip. When you want to pour a
>small amount from either a saucepan or a skillet, you can't do it drop by
>drop.

Who needs lips? That's what ladles and spoons are for.

>2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper on
>the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the heat
>source below.

So does every other pot or pan. The experts (Cooks Illustrated and others) seem
to think that only saucepans and realated items (Windsor pans, etc.) benefit
from clad sides, and that they're of no benefit on fry pans, saute pans, and
stock pots.

>The extra weight and heft of the fully clad cookware is something I wouldn't want.

Hmmm, what's the difference between weight and heft? IMO any difference in
weight is negligible or negative, since all-stainless side walls are probably
heavier than clad sidewalls.

>3. Copper clad is much better than aluminum clad, if you can find the
>former, as copper is a much better conductor of heat than aluminum.

Are you referring to "copper clad," (like the All Clad line, with aluminum clad
in stainless with an outer copper layer) or "clad copper," like the Cuisinart
line with a copper disk clad with stainless?

"Copper clad" is generally for looks only -- the copper cladding is so thin as
to be functionally non-existent. "Clad copper" has measurable advantages, but
they are dependent on the thickness of the disk. For most of what's available,
aluminum is a close enough conductor that the benefit is negligible.

True copper cookware, lined with either tin or stainless, is required to see any
real-world benefit over stainless-clad, thick aluminum.

-- Larry (not a real All Clad fan either, but do own some pieces...)

re All-Clad handles:

I agree they're not comfortable at all!

"wff_ng_7" > wrote in message >
> Funny you should mention Murano glass. I saw a TV news segment on it in
> the past couple of months. True Murano glass probably won't be around for
> a lot longer. The sons of the craftsmen are not taking up the trade, and
> then there's the competition from Chinese fakes. The average consumer
> probably can't tell the difference between a fake and the real thing, and
> many just don't care anyway. Perhaps the sons of the craftsmen know that
> their skills won't be valued in the face of this.

Venice used to be the financial capitol of the world centuries ago and now
is a tourist town. Take out the tourist and it will probably collapse as
the population has been dwindling. There is real effort to get the tourist
to Murano to buy the more expensive items. If you ask at any hotel, they
will get you set up with a water taxi to get you out to Murano. Some of
the places give quite a hard sell if they thing you are going to buy; they
have to pay for the taxi somehow.

It certainly would be a shame to see it come to an end, but the younger
generation is more into computers than learning a trade with a long
apprenticeship.

"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:22:30 -0800, "Kent" > wrote:
>
>>Dee, I don't own All-Clad, but I am somewhat an equipment junkie, and I
>>have
>>two problems with All-Clad.
>>1. None of their cookware has a pouring lip. When you want to pour a
>>small amount from either a saucepan or a skillet, you can't do it drop by
>>drop.
>
> Who needs lips? That's what ladles and spoons are for.

If you want to pour a few cc's of liquid from your pot it's nice to be able
to simply tilt the pan.
>
>>2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper
>>on
>>the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the
>>heat
>>source below.
>
> So does every other pot or pan. The experts (Cooks Illustrated and others)
> seem
> to think that only saucepans and realated items (Windsor pans, etc.)
> benefit
> from clad sides, and that they're of no benefit on fry pans, saute pans,
> and
> stock pots.

I don't think Christopher Kimball et al at Cooks Illustrated have really
addressed that.
>
>>The extra weight and heft of the fully clad cookware is something I
>>wouldn't want.
>
> Hmmm, what's the difference between weight and heft? IMO any difference in
> weight is negligible or negative, since all-stainless side walls are
> probably
> heavier than clad sidewalls.

All Clad is hefty; my Cuisinart, copper cladded by stainless steel on the
bottom isn't. They both heat; one doesn't heat better than the other.
>
>>3. Copper clad is much better than aluminum clad, if you can find the
>>former, as copper is a much better conductor of heat than aluminum.
>
> Are you referring to "copper clad," (like the All Clad line, with aluminum
> clad
> in stainless with an outer copper layer) or "clad copper," like the
> Cuisinart
> line with a copper disk clad with stainless?
>
> "Copper clad" is generally for looks only -- the copper cladding is so
> thin as
> to be functionally non-existent. "Clad copper" has measurable advantages,
> but
> they are dependent on the thickness of the disk. For most of what's
> available,
> aluminum is a close enough conductor that the benefit is negligible.
>
> True copper cookware, lined with either tin or stainless, is required to
> see any
> real-world benefit over stainless-clad, thick aluminum.
>
This is kind of a moot point, since NO home cook, or professional cook use
tin lined copper cookware anymore. You can't find anyone to re-tin.>
>
> -- Larry
>
>
I'm referring to copper cladded with stainless, as Cuisinart products used
to have.
My whole point about all of this is that the old Cuisinart saucepan,
produced just after Cuisinart's separation from Robot Coupe, copper cladded
on the bottom only with stainless , with a delicate pouring lip works better
than anything that has come forth since. Sad, because it's not there
anymore.

Kent

On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 21:48:38 -0800, "Kent" > wrote:

>> Hmmm, what's the difference between weight and heft? IMO any difference in
>> weight is negligible or negative, since all-stainless side walls are
>> probably heavier than clad sidewalls.
>
>All Clad is hefty; my Cuisinart, copper cladded by stainless steel on the
>bottom isn't. They both heat; one doesn't heat better than the other.

I disagree. I'd contend that the All Clad MC2 heats a given quantity of liquid
faster than that Cuisinart line.

>> True copper cookware, lined with either tin or stainless, is required to
>> see any real-world benefit over stainless-clad, thick aluminum.
>
>This is kind of a moot point, since NO home cook, or professional cook use
>tin lined copper cookware anymore. You can't find anyone to re-tin.

Your statement completely ignores stainless-lined copper (see where I said
"either tin or stainless"?), which is used by many people.

It's also not true. I have only one such pan, a dedicated two-piece for Pommes
Anna, but I can easily have it re-tinned at a place just one mile from my house
which still sells a good bit of tin-lined copper. (La Cuisine, Alexandria, VA,
www.lacuisineus.com). They provide re-tinning service via mail as well. There
must be others across the US, and I know there are many in Europe.

>My whole point about all of this is that the old Cuisinart saucepan,
>produced just after Cuisinart's separation from Robot Coupe, copper cladded
>on the bottom only with stainless , with a delicate pouring lip works better
>than anything that has come forth since. Sad, because it's not there
>anymore.

If you mean the line with the oak wood handles and knobs, yes, they were good --
I had a full set (as a wedding gift from 1970 or so), which I have since given
away. They were a bit thin overall, and tended to have hot spots. And because of
the handles, they were limited to 350 deg F or so in the oven, and the handles
deteriorated over time.

I do not believe they performed as well as some recent clad aluminum and
certainly not nearly as well as stainless-lined 2.5 mm copper (Mauviel, Falk,
etc.). If they really matter to you, with the Falk, albeit at a very steep
price, you can have the lips as well.

-- Larry

On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:22:30 -0800, "Kent" > wrote:



>2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper on
>the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the heat
>source below. What heat moves up the sides is miniscule. The extra weight and heft
>of the fully clad cookware is something I wouldn't want.

I had no problem with disk bottomed pans when I use electric stove tops.
On my gas range, however, I find that the side of the pan just at the
edge of the disk can get very hot, resulting in a tendency to burn
anything adhering there. I prefer fully clad or solid material pans for
that reason.

In article >, Robert Klute > wrote:

> On Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:22:30 -0800, "Kent" > wrote:
>
>
>
> >2. I don't think it makes any sense to have either aluminum or copper on
> >the vertical sides of a saucepan. Saucepans get heated directly, by the heat
> >source below. What heat moves up the sides is miniscule. The extra weight and heft
> >of the fully clad cookware is something I wouldn't want.
>
> I had no problem with disk bottomed pans when I use electric stove tops.
> On my gas range, however, I find that the side of the pan just at the
> edge of the disk can get very hot, resulting in a tendency to burn
> anything adhering there. I prefer fully clad or solid material pans for
> that reason.
>
>


real cooks use cast iron and don't worry about all this
drivel with 'stainless steel' or aluminum or whatever other
junk you're going to use. cast iron is still the king of cookware.
everything else is some cheap and/or lacking compromise.
the only other pan you might want is a copper for certain specialty needs.
and one nonstick for omelettes (although good old fashion seasoned milled cast iron
such as griswold or wagner) can do anything nearly non-stick.

get real. cast iron is the way to go -- always has been.

(asian cooking - hammered carbon steel wok is the only way to go
and propane high btu burners)

anything else is drivel.

In article >, says...
> real cooks use cast iron and don't worry about all this
> drivel with 'stainless steel' or aluminum or whatever other
> junk you're going to use. cast iron is still the king of cookware.
> everything else is some cheap and/or lacking compromise.
>

What an astounding gaggle of hog sputum. Cast iron is great for some
uses, not so great for others, and ****-poor for still others.

--
Peter Aitken

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 16:41:36 -0500, ironhead > wrote:

>real cooks use cast iron and don't worry about all this
>drivel ....

buh-bye, "Ironhead" -- an apt name if there ever was one. {plonk}

-- Larry