FoodBanter.com - Criollo Chocolate

at Thu, 11 Dec 2003 05:54:54 GMT in <426909fc.0312102154.4b250967
@posting.google.com>, (Eddy) wrote :

>Hello Folks:
>
>I just found out about Criollo chocolate and now I'm more
>confused than ever. I went to El Rey Chocolates and decided
>to look around and shop for something. However, I couldn't
>figure out what I needed to buy.
>
>There is Chef's Choice, and Baker Choice. I decided to go
>and get the Baker's Choice and came to find out there are
>8 more choices. Choices I have no idea about.
>Could anyone explain to me these:
>Apamate 73.5%
>Gran Saman 70%
>Mijao 61%
>Bucare 58.5%
>Caoba Milk 41%
>Macuro 70%
>Cariaco 60.5%
>Irapa Milk 40.5%
>
>I'm assuming the percentage is the amount of Cocoa but I have no idea
>what any of them mean.

Yes, the percentage is the total cocoa solids (defatted cocoa solids +
cocoa butter). The names are just that, names. Apamate, Gran Saman, Mijao,
Bucare, and Caoba are made using Carenero Superior beans (an elite, strong
Criollo). Macuro, Cariaco, and Irapa are made using Rio Caribe Superior
beans (a slightly less-prized, somewhat milder bean with a greater
proportion of Forastero genes in it.)

For the Carenero family, the dark chocolates come in 2 different cocoa
butter ratios: high (= smooth, melty) and low (= a bit rougher, dry).
Apamate and Mijao are the high-cocoa-butter chocolates. Because of the
particular formulae, they emphasize higher cocoa butter at the expense of
defatted cocoa solids, so they're not as intense. Thus Gran Saman is
hyperintense, Apamate merely strong, Bucare moderate, and Mijao somewhat
subdued. The low-cocoa-butter formulations are also more appropriate when
you're incorporating them into a recipe that already has very high fat,
e.g. chocolate ice cream, chocolate decadence, or when they're going to be
in an oven as chocolate itself, typically chocolate chips, where
excessively fast melting could pose problems. The high-cocoa-butter types
are better for coating, and for things with lower fat in the other
ingredients, such as cake.

> In addition, to make a brownie should I use
>Chef's Choice or Baker's Choice?

These aren't different types of chocolate, they're different delivery
formats. The Baker's choice gives you a 1 kg bloc. Chef's choice gives you
a box with 3 1 kg blocs. Essentially it's simply more chocolate.

As for which to use for a brownie, it's hard to tell without seeing your
recipe. But if you want to choose El Rey, I'd probably go with the San
Joaquin for brownies. Its flavour profile would be the best fit.

If you want to try Criollos, also check out Domori, Amedei, Bonnat, Michel
Cluizel, or Valrhona, all of whom offer pure Criollo bars. I've listed them
in order of which ones I'd try to find first, based on a combination of the
number of different Criollo varietals they carry and the quality of the
chocolate they produce. All of them are IMHO better quality-wise than El
Rey. http://www.chocosphere.com is a great place to find many of them.

The "big-name" criollo varietals a

Porcelana - the purest Criollo, also the one with the mildest flavour.
Extraordinarily delicate. Don't bake it in anything - this one is best
eaten straight.

Chuao - undeniably the most powerful, very "dark" in flavour. A legendary
chocolate. Incredibly versatile: works well for straight eating, baking,
ice cream, milk chocolate, you name it. Some people find its distinctive
bitter finish jarring.

Carenero Superior - has an unmistakeable "tropical" flavour to it, complex
and bold. It's acquired a stellar reputation in the last few years, which
is by and large deserved.

Ocumare - commonly crossbred with Forasteros. The purebreed is a fairly
mild, somewhat earthy/woody chocolate. A natural fit for brown sugar.

Java - actually, a region more than a type, but most cocoa sold
specifically as "Java" is Criollo. Sharp and spicy, quite unlike the 4
above. It's got a creamy finish reminiscent of Porcelana, which makes it
the ideal bean for milk chocolate, as many manufacturers indeed use.

Guasare - brand new and not so developed. I've not seen a pure Guasare bar
yet. Earthy and deep, somewhat similar to Ocumare. El Rey may be
experimenting with it.

--
Alex Rast

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