In article >, The Bibliographer
> wrote:

> As others have said, it seems to mean "layered with alternating fat and
> lean." If you do have access to an up-to-date <Grade Dizionario della
> Lingua Italiana>, I would be grateful if you could check if the set is up
> to the "V"'s. Thanks.

It doesn't add much to our knowledge. I add one of the definitions of
'Veregella' simply for academic interest. (There may be spelling
mistakes in the Martino excerpt. My Italian girlfriend tells me it
looks damn poor Italian to her, but it's very old).

Grande dizionario della Lingua Italiana - Salvatore Battaglia
vol xxi

Vergellata
agg. Gastron. Ant. Che presenta filamenti di grasso (la carne)
Maestro Martino, LXVI-I-131 Togli la carne salata che (sia)
vergellata di grasso e magro insieme, e tagliala in fette, e ponile
accocere ne la padella e non le lassare troppo cocere.
Deriv. da vergella, col suff. del part. pass.

Vergella - sf. Verga di piccole dimensioni, bacchetta, bastoncello
- Figur. Membro virile (anche di animali)

Lazarus

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