On 2006-11-21, Natarajan Krishnaswami > wrote:
> nasu dengaku

The miso preparation used for this dish is called nerimiso, or sweet
simmered miso, of which there are many variations: red, white (my
favorite), or hatcho miso; honey or sugar sweetened, and mirin (my
favorite) or water; some have sauteed nut meats (esp walnut; with red
or barley miso); some have yuzu or other citrus zest (with red or
barley miso). A famous white sweet simmered miso used for tofu
dengaku also has egg yolks.

The basic technique is to use around a 2:1 ratio of miso to liquid,
heat to a boil, reduce to low heat and simmer till it starts to
thicken, stirring constantly.

Adapted from Shurtleff & Aoyagi's "Book of Miso":

"Dengaku, one of Japan's oldest and most famous types of miso
cuisine, is prepared by charcoal broiling skewered, bite-sized
pieces of various foods. Each piece is then coated on one or both
sides with a thing layer of miso and the skewers are rebroiled
briefly until the miso is speckled and fragrant."

1/4 to 1/2 cup nerimiso (I like sweet white)
12-24 oz small Japanese eggplants
sesame oil
roasted sesame seeds

Prepare the nerimiso in advance and allow to cool.

Cut the eggplants into 1/2 in thick rounds (or big eggplants into
bite sized wedges). Soak for a few minutes in lightly salted water,
drain well, and pat dry. Pierce both sides in several places with a
fork or chop stick, then brush with sesame oil.

Skewer with two round skewers (so that when they are both held, the
piece won't move). Holding a few pieces of skewered eggplant at a
time, side by side, over a gas burner, broil for about 30 seconds
until the eggplant is lightly speckled. (Or broil eggplant on one
side over a charcoal brazier or barbecue.) Coat the broiled side
with a 1/8 inch thick layer of nerimiso, then broil the uncoated
side till speckled. Flip again, and broil the miso topping until it
is also speckled. Garnish the topped side with sesame seeds.

(Alternatively, you can broil the pieces in an oven without
skewering.)

However, I think what I had in mind is actually nasu no shigiyaki
(grilled eggplant shigiyaki):

4 Japanese eggplants, sliced lengthwise into halves
1 Tbsp sesame oil
2 1/2 Tbsp nerimiso
sansho or sesame seeds

Score the eggplant halves in a criss-cross pattern, brush the scored
face with oil, and broil on both sides till nicely speckled.
(Alternatively, deep fry the slices.) Spread each cut surface with
nerimiso and rebroil quickly until the miso is fragrant and
speckled. Sprinkle sesame seeds or ground sansho over the miso.

or nasu no nabe shigiyaki (fried eggplant shigiyaki):

4 Japanese eggplants
2 Tbsp red, barley or hatcho miso
1 Tbsp honey
1 1/2 tsp sake, white wine or mirin
1/4 tsp gingerroot, grated
1 Tbps water
3-4 Tbsp oil
1-2 tsp roasted sesame seeds

Peel strips of skin lengthwise from the eggplants such that they
have alternating peeled and purple stripes. Soak the eggplants in
water for 10 minutes.

Combine the miso, honey, sake, and water, and simmer for 3-4 minutes
till smooth and slightly thickened. Remove from heat.

Pat the eggplants dry, and cut into halves lengthwise. Pan-fry for
2 minutes, covered, until golden brown. Turn and fry the other
side. Arranges the slices on a serving plate, spread with the miso
sauce, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve chilled.

I had some of this at a Japanese restaurant last night. Mmm!


(These are all closely related dishes.)

Enjoy!
N.