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Old 26-09-2005, 04:19 PM
Mark Lipton
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Default TN: Some '88 Burgs

This weekend, Jean opened up several bottles of '88 Burgundy that she
had acquired earlier this year at auction. The lineup was:

Robert Chevillon NSG "Vaucrains"
Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Fontenys"
Faiveley Chambertin-Clos be Beze
Dujac Clos de la Roche
Roty Mazy-Chambertin

All of the wines were opened and aerated a half hour prior to serving.
The foods we had to accompany them were a sauteed mushroom medley on
toast and smoked quail stuffed with a cornbread-andouille stuffing.
There were also a few cheeses and some smoked reindeer courtesy of one
of our guests (a Finn). Because of my duties preparing food and
watching baby, I didn't have a chance to take detailed notes. What
follows are just some general impressions:

All of the wines were quite youthful. The 1ers were even quite primary
in their flavors.

The Roty Fontenys tasted slightly corked to me, though no one else agreed.

The Dujac Clos de la Roche was the unanimous WOTN. It was gorgeously
perfumed with a floral nose, light and delicate on the palate but with
plenty of strawberryish fruit and perfect balance. Wow!

The Roty wines, even in the presence of other Burgs and even with food,
stood out as being quite acidic. Another 5 years in bottle might
benefit them.

Our friend Chris, who dislikes Pinot Noir because it tastes like grape
juice to her, liked all of the wines except the Chevillon (which tasted
like Pinot Noir to her).

Overall, this was a very educational experience, as for many of us it
was our first serious encounter with aged Grand Cru Burgundy. Most of
us left the tasting as converts.

Mark Lipton