Mark Lipton > wrote in
:
>
> Unfortunately, that may not be unrelated to the relatively low cost of
> Huet's wines. I can still buy their secs and demi-secs for just over
> $30 a bottle, and their production costs aren't small given the sort
> of care taken in the vineyards and the hand harvesting and sorting
> that's done.

I agree. Their wines remain quite affordable and proably merit a higher
recognition. Not that I am complaining for being able to purchase their
wines at fair prices.
>
> For me, I think that LHL gets the nod in most years, though I've had
> brilliant wines from all 3 vineyards.

I think I have tasted chez Huet no less than 5 times in the last decade.
They are really generous when you go to their place and they let you taste
through the range. I really miss the old fashioned tasting room, though
(the new one is modern and impressive).

Every time I tasted through their range, I have found Clos du Bourg a bit
better than the other single vineyard wines, and LHL is usually the one I
like less. In Clos du Bourg I usually find that salinity and razorblade
precision that emerges from the chalkyness of the subsoil, and I am the
kind of guy that has a preference for "le calcaire". Le Mont is a bit
rounder and I can put it on par with CdB in lesser years. LHL I usually
think that it lacks a bit of precision. An older demi-sec bottle of LHL
from the 40s or 50s (cannot remember) was an amazing bottle of wine,
though.


> Alas, though, great terroir
> isn't enough to guarantee even good wine.

I know what you mean. However, the terroir was there waiting for Monsieur
Huet to make it shine and Monsieur Pinguet to continue the tradition. Even
if the current owner makes lesser wines, the terroir will be there waiting
for its opportunity to a comeback. We, as wine drinkers, will probably miss
it (and will regret). But we are nothing when compared to the greatness of
such terroirs.

Just look at the recent
> history of the Clos Baudoin or some of the recent vintages from
> Charles Joguet.

I learnt Chinon with Les Varennes du Grand Clos and Clos de la Dioterie
from Charles Joguet, so I feel your pain.

s.