Hi Joanne
With all due respect, I would like to offer some other points of
consideration when discussing the use of heat in winemaking.
About the only way to avoid having heat used at some point in
the process, is to make the wine from fresh fruit or "flash frozen"
fruit.
Consider: Anything that is canned uses heat during the process
for pasteurization, even though the label may not say so.
Consider: Many frozen things either say "pasteurized" on the label
or are in the form of concentrates.
Consider: The normal commercial process used to make concentrates
also uses heat. So anything made from concentrate, or anything
which says on the label that it has been "reconstituted from
concentrate", has had heat used on it at some point during processing.
Consider: Virtually all kits are made with juices that have been
pasteurized, condensed, or reconstituted from concentrate, which
means heat was used. They also have the tartaric acid removed
which places them in the "non-tartaric" class of wines ( but that
is another subject)
Consider: Commercial jams and jellies use heat during the process.
The list goes on, but the bottom line is that anyone that has ever
made wine from any of these things has been making (so called)
"hot process" wines. There is nothing *wrong* with such wines,
but yes, they are different from "fresh fruit" (cold process) wines,
and folks should be aware of the differences. I make both hot
and cold process wines using the same fruit, and each has it's
following among my friends.
HTMS (?) HTH
"jmreiter" > wrote in message
...
> Rick,
> no, no, no, NO! In my experience, you don't need to pour hot water over
> any raspbery must/pulp. This hot/boiling water thing is a pet peeve of
> mine. For the most part, it is an ancient holdover from the days before
Pot.
> Metabisulphite. Cold water would have done just as well. Jack Keller
> staunchly maintains that you need hot/boiling water on _some_ fruits to
> "set" the color. That may be for a minority of fruits (into which Jack
> Keller lumps raspberry). However, I found that this is not necessarily so
> for raspberry as I have had successful color retention for up to two
years.
> Raspberry wine is Heavenly! And I second Ben Rotter's suggestion that
> you do a non-diluted raspberry wine. You could add the water which you
> poured over the remaining pulp. HOWEVER, I strongly suggest that you check
> the TA and the pH of both your juice AND the water you poured over the
pulp.
> I've heard that a lot of acid can come off the seeds, but I would love to
> see if this is true. I'd be especially interested if the is a difference
in
> pH......
> I would stay away from adding any canned puree to a fresh fruit. Have
> fun with your wine and let us know what happens.
> Joanne
>
> "Rick Vanderwal" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I'm going to assume that the proper TA would be around .65 for a fruit
> > wine....
> >
> > I do think I would like a larger volume of wine....
> > 2 gallons for all those raspberries and all that work will only yield me
> 10
> > bottles, and if it turns our really good, I'd rather have 15 or 20
rather
> > than 10.... I once had some raspberry wine and it was HEAVENLY!
Very
> > rich, balanced, strong raspberry flavour. This past summer I had some
> > raspberry wine and you could barely taste the raspberry....I definitely
> > would like to have it closer to the first one I tried and not the
> latter....
> > So I want to keep a strong flavoru concentration...
> >
> > One thing I also did last night I forgot to write about....I took all
the
> > pulp and seeds that I had extrated using the Victorio Strainer and the
> Berry
> > screen....so, absolutely no seeds in the juice... But I took the seeds
> and
> > leftover pulp, put it in a straining bag, and poured hot water over it,
> > extracting all the nice red colour and aroma from the remaining pulp.
> I'll
> > only leave it on there one day or so...so I don't pick up any strange
> > flavours from the seeds. So that might be another 1/2 gallon of
> > "juice"....not as strong as the extracted juice, but still pretty
> > flavourful.
> >
> > Thanks for your ideas. Will still welcome other comments if there's
> > anything else to add by anyone. Thanks again.
> >
> > Rick Vanderwal
> > "Ben Rotter" > wrote in message
> > om...
> > > Rick Vanderwal wrote:
> > >
> > > > 1. Use the two gallons to make two gallons of really rich wine?
> > >
> > > Being an advocate of 100% juice wines I'd say go for it! But *as long
> > > as* you can produce a balanced wine from that juice. I would recommend
> > > you check your TA and reduce with carbonate if necessary.
> > >
> > > > 2. Dilute it to make a larger quanitity, but less acidic wine?
And
> > if
> > > > so, how much water should I add for dilution? Could I add double
the
> > > > water, to bring the total to four gallons? or even five? But would
> > that
> > > > water it down too much?
> > >
> > > When raspberry wine is diluted, it's often reduced in concentration by
> > > 3-5 times. If you are diluting for balance reasons alone, as you
> > > indicate: I'd again suggest you check the TA and dilute only enough to
> > > give a reasonable TA, but no further. There is no point in diluting
> > > beyond that and then having to add acid blend, unless your aim is to
> > > change the acid profile of the wine.
> > >
> > > > 3. Buy a can of Oregon pure seedless raspberry puree and add it
to
> > what I
> > > > have and bring the total to five gallons for lots of flavourful
wine?
> > >
> > > If you are happy with the quality of the puree (flavour and acid wise)
> > > and you can gain considerable volume from it, why not. Again I'd
> > > stress the balance issue though.
> > >
> > > Ben
> > > http://members.tripod.com/~BRotter/100juice.htm
> >
> >
>
>