On 9/19/11 6:39 AM, NilsGLindgren wrote:
> Hello,
> Preparing for a tasting of modern Beaujolais, we opened two bottles of
> the lower rungs, one of which was a Faiveley B-V 2009. This was a
> pleasant enough wine with a good structure and clean acidity, but, on
> the nose, a great deal of marshmallows/ripe banana - not like a Bojol
> Noveau, but still, quite noticeable. We did not finish the bottle, but
> after 4-5 days drank what was left and, the marshmallows had
> disappeared, leaving undergrowth, possibly a hint of violets, and
> blackberries.
> According to at least three different sources, the marshmallow/banana
> smell derives from an industrial yeast and is caused by isoamyl
> acetate. So, not really caused by carb mac, then.
> I would like to know what the carbonic maceration does to the
> organoleptic qualities of wine, apart from lowering acidity (which
> appears to be a given, and needful with Gamay which tend to produce
> high acidity).

Yes, Nils, I don't consider banana to be associated with CM
vinification. There is, however, a distinct aroma profile that I
associate with CM, which I can best characterize as grapey, fresh and
forward. It's very evident in many Cru Beaujolais as CM is employed by
many vignerons there. One way to get a handle on what I'm referring to
is to compare another CM wine such as Marc Ollivier's Cuvée Granit,
which is a blend of Côt (Malbec) and Cab Franc, to a Cru Beaujolais and
see what they have in common despite their disparate encepagements.

Mark Lipton

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