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DaleW DaleW is offline
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Default TN: 1989 Bordeaux at Mortons

A few winegeeks gathered at Morton's in midtown to check in on the
1989 Bordeaux last night. A couple of cancellations left us with a
smaller group, but personally I like groups of 7. No worries re pours,
opportunities to retry things during the night, chance to actually
converse with everyone there.

I just have to say, we got lucky. Nothing corked, no off bottles of
any kind, pretty much everything showed quite well. I enjoyed my crab
cake (the lone white was gone by then, the one weakness of Morton's
for claret dinners is not much red friendly on the appetizer list), my
ribeye, the sides.

We started with a bottle of the 2004 Fevre "Bougros" Chablis GC
(actually, I never looked closely at the bottle, but assume this was
the regular Bougros and not the Cote de B-whatever). A really fine
showing, big with clean ripe fruit, but good acids, steely nose, chalk
and limestone. I really enjoyed this, and should have saved some for
that crab cake! Young but drinking quite well already. A-

Ramon started us off with a blind bottle. Clearly Bordeaux , with
cassis fruit and a bit of tobacco and leather. I got just a slight
hint of bandaid and poop and started thinking Cordier. Some St Julien
guesses, when Ramon said no we went north and said St Estephe. I
thought maybe Meyney, but underestimated Ramon's generosity, it was
the 1989 Montrose. Good and young, a better showing than a bottle at
Montrose vertical. It was pretty good then, but resipped towards the
end of the night it was showing especially well, and made it to #3 in
my voting for WOTN. A-

Next up a few flights of two (not blind)

1989*Pichon Baron - dense, dark, and delicious. Nice texture,
excellent length. Young but drinking quite well. My WOTN vote. A-/A

1989 Pichon Lalande - much lighter color, more red (raspberry and red
currant) fruit, nice herbal notes. Bright acids. B+

I think most preferred the Baron.

1989 Troplong Mondot - young, fresh, smokey, long. Very nice, but
holding a bit in reserve right now. B+/A-

1989 *L’Evangile - very intense herbal/minty/menthol nose. 2 people
independently referenced Heitz Martha's without hearing each other.
Nice black fruits, that pretty herbal note, some cigarbox just peeking
in. Good length, I liked very much (my previous bottle didn't show so
much menthol). My #2 of the reds for the night. A-

1989 *Cos D’Estournel -softer than I expected, tobacco, earth, good
fruit. Surprisingly ready and very enjoyable. I think I was only
person who gave it slight edge over the Lynch. A-/B+

1989*Lynch Bages -big, burly, brawny. Very cassis driven, fairly
tannic, quite ripe. Leadpencil/cedar. Nice but could use a little
time. B+/A-

One last wine, served by itself. The 1989 Tertre Rotebeuf is a very
big wine, but doesn't seem ungainly or overextracted. Big dense dark
fruit, chocolate and a little olive note, long finish. Certainly
"modern-styled" but not over the top and quite attractive. A-/B+

We finished with a 1989 Climens generously furnished by David. This
is really singing. Apricots, bright citrus, candied orange peel. He
says he got this ex-chateau, color is light and young. Very long, very
delicious. Not allowed in the voting, but would have been a candidate
for WOTN. A-/A

Fun night with a good group. Thanks Matt for organizing.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an
excellent*wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I
wouldn't*drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I
offer no*promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of