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Old 14-10-2009, 08:00 PM posted to
Lawrence Leichtman[_2_] Lawrence Leichtman[_2_] is offline
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Default WTN: 78-92 Bonneau du Martey Corton-Ch., 89-91 Mongeard-Mugnerets, 59 Rhine BA

In article
DaleW wrote:

Last night SOBER met at Andy's house. Last spring, someone had spotted
an enticing offer of Mongeard-Mugnerets, we had decided to buy as a
group. Andy offered to host, and we agreed to do a bit of a potluck
(though Andy of course had most of the load).

I picked up Craig and we arrived to find almost everyone there in
kitchen. I helped Craig with peeling parsnips, and decided if you're
going to peel parsnips, you might as well drink 1988 Moet and Chandon
Dom Perignon (thanks Andy!). Full-bodied, crisp, lemons and a bit of
herb. Just a touch of yeast, pretty tasty to me. B+
We also enjoyed a couple of pizzas (Margherita and pepperoni) that
Andy and Antoine (chef friend of Andy's filling in for absent Dan) had

We moved to table. In addition to the reds, we had a flight of whites
that Craig had found at auction:

Flight One (with a lovely terrine with pistachios that Antoine had
(after initial sniffs of all three it was clear that these were
younger than the last 4 or 5 bottles of 98 and 99 BdM I've had!)

1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Nose of pears, hazelnuts, and pineapple. Sweet fruit on palate, long
finish with stony mineral notes. I think I liked better than most
others, though at end I think Mark also named it his favorite. A-

1989 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Sweet pears, easy drinking, maybe a bit of heat on finish. Pears,
lemon curd, and vanilla. Nice enough wine, but seemed simple and maybe
a touch tired compared to its flightmates. B

1992 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
(I think this wasn't part of the auction lot, but a contribution from
Floral, young, full-bodied, still a touch of oak. Good, classy, long. B

Flight Two (with a beautiful fennel, orange, avocado, and tarragon
shrimp salad from John)

1978 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Funny wine. Started out with a bright intense nose, floral and limey.
But with only a few minutes in glass it seemed to fade and really show
it's age. A couple of people thought it corked but it didn't show in
my glass. B+ to start, B- after a while.

1983 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Dramatic nose, hazelnuts and honey, a bit fat/low acid. Funny finish,
I think Mark called it with "lactic." Still, good nose and attack.
Favorite of many tasters. B+

1985 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
No debate about this one. Corked!

We moved on to reds, Tim's mushroom/stilton gallette (I want that
recipe!) going with a loner, while Mark was testing his beef:

1990 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos Vougeot
Warm, giving, with sweet 1990 fruit but without any jammy/overripe/
pruney notes. Medium-bodied, black cherries and forest floor. One of
the better 90s I've had in last few years. A-/B+

Flight Three (with perfect tenderloin with a peppercorn cream sauce
with a parsnip/potato puree)

1989 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes
Low acids, a bit cheesey and pruney. OK, but not especially appealing
to me, some others liked much more. B-

1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes
This however I really liked. Clean, delineated, minerals, spice,
sandalwood. Nice length. A-/B+

Flight Four (with my panko crusted duck legs)
1989 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux
I initially wrote funky, tired, chalky, weird finish. But then the
more sensitive pointed it was corked, and once I went looking I found
the TCA.

1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux
Spicy, fresh, minerally, loamy. Good length, and in a really good
place. Drinking well but no hurry. My ROTN by a hair A-

Then came the cheese course, provided by Mike (hard) and Cathleen
(soft). Great assortment, by faves being the Ossau-Iraty, a prime
Comte (from, and an a pointe Epoisses - but other
interesting stuff like a one with walnut in rind, a crottin, etc.

1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg
Nose is a bit lifted, but that seems to blow off somewhat after a bit.
Warm fruit, tannic, good length. I like, but needs time. B+/A- (with
potential for better)

Andy is ever the generous host, and decided we needed a little sweet
finisher. At my house that might be a Loire from the 80s, but he took
John down to choose and came up with 1959 Staatsweinguter
"Steinberger" Riesling Beerenauslese (Rheingau). Whoa! Apricots,
honey, nuts. Intense, yet with a real lightness. Good acids,
loooooooonnng finish, what a way to end evening, incredible generosity
from Andy. A

Quite a night, I only wish I'd had a chauffeur so I could have
indulged more. Lots of disagreements on the wines, which makes things
funner to me. Excellent job on the food from everyone.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Sounds great except for two corked wines. I have never tried a 31 year
old Corton so I did not know they would normally hold up that long. The
last Corton I had from 78 was already tired by 2000.