Thread: Healthy vines
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Paul E. Lehmann[_7_] Paul E. Lehmann[_7_] is offline
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Default Healthy vines

wrote:

> "Could you do an experiment and mulch some and don't mulch others and
> see if
> there is a difference?"
>
> I already did that.


My response was to Michael - NOT you.

> There is a big difference in the mulched vines
> compared to the unmulched vines. Micheal is just confirming what I and
> shbailey have seen. Why don't YOU do the experiment?


I don't need to. My vines are healthy and there is no issue with lack of
moisture where I live.

WHY don't you answer my questions?
Where do you live. What varieties are you growing and how many vines do you
have? Have you ever worked at a commercial vineyard?

> You seem to be a
> typical viticulturalist, a stubborn dinosaur regurgitating old myths.


Hardy har har. I am a Geologist but putting me in the realm of dinosaurs is
stretching it a might.


>
>
>
> On Sep 21, 9:56Â*am, "Paul E. Lehmann" >
> wrote:
>> michael wrote:
>> > On 19 Sep, 10:58, "Paul E. Lehmann" > wrote:
>> >> shbailey wrote:
>> >> > On Sep 18, 4:42 am, michael > wrote:
>> >> >> I thought that I would try again to further my understanding of
>> >> >> observations on my vines in England this year,based on the very
>> >> >> useful replies and discussion.There will always be disagreement,but
>> >> >> as someone new to growing grapevines,I hope that I can understand
>> >> >> the issues.I apologise to doubi..for my recent comment,and hope
>> >> >> that he can continue to help.
>> >> >> Let me try again to summarise my recently gained knowledge:
>> >> >> 1)Using wood chip as a mulch on the surface around the vine can
>> >> >> greatly help in the stabilisation of upper soil moisture
>> >> >> content,and will not affect the nitrogen of the vines-rotovating or
>> >> >> digging in wood chip will rob the soil,and this is my gardening
>> >> >> experience.Garden compost could be even better,as it introduces a
>> >> >> living worm population which may help soil texture.
>> >> >> 2)Wasps or other insects are not the source of primary damage to
>> >> >> ripening grapes,but can spread the rot to other grapes in the
>> >> >> bunch.A primary source of damage could be a heavy rain
>> >> >> shower,causing splitting,followed by wasps,etc moving in.I think
>> >> >> that this is what happens with plums after they split when nearing
>> >> >> ripeness.My culling of the majority of the wasp population will
>> >> >> still help,I believe. 3)I thought that darker vine leaves to be an
>> >> >> indicator of too much nitrogen.I would like to know what the
>> >> >> indicators are for vines needing more phosphates,or potash,so that
>> >> >> I know what fertiliser to add to my compost.
>> >> >> 4)One indisputable fact is that my vines and grapes are sofar much
>> >> >> healthier this year. I believe that probably the main cause is the
>> >> >> long very warm dry spell here in June-but I do not really know.It
>> >> >> could be the compost keeping moisture levels stable.
>> >> >> 5)My original post was about pruning of laterals or sideshoots for
>> >> >> vigorous vines in a cool climate.My policy now is to remove most of
>> >> >> them in June and July to prevent a dense canopy developing,thus
>> >> >> encouraging powdery mildew,and then leave them alone after veraison
>> >> >> to have maximum leaf for the ripening period.

>>
>> >> >> I hope that my understanding is improving and welcome your comments

>>
>> >> >> Michael

>>
>> >> > The following link provides pictures of grape leaves with various
>> >> > nutrient deficiencies. Â*Potash (potassium) and magnesium are the
>> >> > most common. Â*Magnesium can be easily supplied with a few spoonfuls
>> >> > of Epsom salts. Â*I read the other day that grapes usually don't need
>> >> > added phosphates. Â*
http://www.honeycreek.us/leaf_chart.php
>>
>> >> > You hit the nail on the head about the benefit of mulch. Â*If you had
>> >> > a long warm, dry spell and your vines remained healthy, it was due
>> >> > to the stable moisture levels enabled by your mulch.

>>
>> >> > Stephen

>>
>> >> It was probably the long warm, dry spell that made the vines healthy.
>> >> Vines love and thrive in those conditions.

>>
>> >> I don't think Michael lives in a semi-arid part of the world requiring
>> >> mulch.- Hide quoted text -

>>
>> >> - Show quoted text -

>>
>> > Hi Paul,
>> > Although I do not live in a semi-arid part of the world,my
>> > sloping dry limestone south facing soil does dry extremely quickly
>> > during the summer.The grass on the adjoining orchard becomes a pale
>> > straw colour for a couple of months,and the planting of fruit trees in
>> > the orchard is almost impossible without regular watering in the first
>> > couple of years.So it may be the case that mulching in March helped
>> > the vines over the very warm dry June period,and stopped any powdery
>> > mildew developing.

>>
>> If you had a sunnier and warmer season than usual thus far, that could be
>> the major reason for lack of powdery.
>>
>> > In other years,I have some powdery mildew,even
>> > though I spray regularly with wettable sulphur.This year I have not
>> > detected any powdery mildew on any of my four varieties of
>> > vines.So,maybe the jury is still out as to whether the mulching has
>> > helped the vines in my particular situation,but I am tempted to mulch
>> > again next year.
>> > Best regards
>> > Michael

>>
>> How many rows do you have?
>> Could you do an experiment and mulch some and don't mulch others and see
>> if there is a difference?