Thread: Healthy vines
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[email protected] doublesb@hotmail.com is offline
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Default Healthy vines

"Could you do an experiment and mulch some and don't mulch others and
see if
there is a difference?"

I already did that. There is a big difference in the mulched vines
compared to the unmulched vines. Micheal is just confirming what I and
shbailey have seen. Why don't YOU do the experiment? You seem to be a
typical viticulturalist, a stubborn dinosaur regurgitating old myths.



On Sep 21, 9:56*am, "Paul E. Lehmann" >
wrote:
> michael wrote:
> > On 19 Sep, 10:58, "Paul E. Lehmann" > wrote:
> >> shbailey wrote:
> >> > On Sep 18, 4:42 am, michael > wrote:
> >> >> I thought that I would try again to further my understanding of
> >> >> observations on my vines in England this year,based on the very useful
> >> >> replies and discussion.There will always be disagreement,but as
> >> >> someone new to growing grapevines,I hope that I can understand the
> >> >> issues.I apologise to doubi..for my recent comment,and hope that he
> >> >> can continue to help.
> >> >> Let me try again to summarise my recently gained knowledge:
> >> >> 1)Using wood chip as a mulch on the surface around the vine can
> >> >> greatly help in the stabilisation of upper soil moisture content,and
> >> >> will not affect the nitrogen of the vines-rotovating or digging in
> >> >> wood chip will rob the soil,and this is my gardening experience.Garden
> >> >> compost could be even better,as it introduces a living worm population
> >> >> which may help soil texture.
> >> >> 2)Wasps or other insects are not the source of primary damage to
> >> >> ripening grapes,but can spread the rot to other grapes in the bunch..A
> >> >> primary source of damage could be a heavy rain shower,causing
> >> >> splitting,followed by wasps,etc moving in.I think that this is what
> >> >> happens with plums after they split when nearing ripeness.My culling
> >> >> of the majority of the wasp population will still help,I believe.
> >> >> 3)I thought that darker vine leaves to be an indicator of too much
> >> >> nitrogen.I would like to know what the indicators are for vines
> >> >> needing more phosphates,or potash,so that I know what fertiliser to
> >> >> add to my compost.
> >> >> 4)One indisputable fact is that my vines and grapes are sofar much
> >> >> healthier this year. I believe that probably the main cause is the
> >> >> long very warm dry spell here in June-but I do not really know.It
> >> >> could be the compost keeping moisture levels stable.
> >> >> 5)My original post was about pruning of laterals or sideshoots for
> >> >> vigorous vines in a cool climate.My policy now is to remove most of
> >> >> them in June and July to prevent a dense canopy developing,thus
> >> >> encouraging powdery mildew,and then leave them alone after veraison to
> >> >> have maximum leaf for the ripening period.

>
> >> >> I hope that my understanding is improving and welcome your comments

>
> >> >> Michael

>
> >> > The following link provides pictures of grape leaves with various
> >> > nutrient deficiencies. *Potash (potassium) and magnesium are the most
> >> > common. *Magnesium can be easily supplied with a few spoonfuls of
> >> > Epsom salts. *I read the other day that grapes usually don't need
> >> > added phosphates. *http://www.honeycreek.us/leaf_chart.php

>
> >> > You hit the nail on the head about the benefit of mulch. *If you had a
> >> > long warm, dry spell and your vines remained healthy, it was due to
> >> > the stable moisture levels enabled by your mulch.

>
> >> > Stephen

>
> >> It was probably the long warm, dry spell that made the vines healthy.
> >> Vines love and thrive in those conditions.

>
> >> I don't think Michael lives in a semi-arid part of the world requiring
> >> mulch.- Hide quoted text -

>
> >> - Show quoted text -

>
> > Hi Paul,
> > * * * * * * Although I do not live in a semi-arid part of the world,my
> > sloping dry limestone south facing soil does dry extremely quickly
> > during the summer.The grass on the adjoining orchard becomes a pale
> > straw colour for a couple of months,and the planting of fruit trees in
> > the orchard is almost impossible without regular watering in the first
> > couple of years.So it may be the case that mulching in March helped
> > the vines over the very warm dry June period,and stopped any powdery
> > mildew developing.

>
> If you had a sunnier and warmer season than usual thus far, that could be
> the major reason for lack of powdery.
>
> > In other years,I have some powdery mildew,even
> > though I spray regularly with wettable sulphur.This year I have not
> > detected any powdery mildew on any of my four varieties of
> > vines.So,maybe the jury is still out as to whether the mulching has
> > helped the vines in my particular situation,but I am tempted to mulch
> > again next year.
> > Best regards
> > Michael

>
> How many rows do you have?
> Could you do an experiment and mulch some and don't mulch others and see if
> there is a difference?