Thread: Healthy vines
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[email protected] doublesb@hotmail.com is offline
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Default Healthy vines

Michael,

It's well documented that fungus preys on unhealthy plants. Plants
that are stressed or made to suffer. Sound familiar? Also the
mychorrrizal fungus in the mulch is helping the roots and vine. On the
lateral issue, As I said before, laterals are produced by the vine
after bloom to help with ripening. Depending on when bloom is is when
you should stop pruning laterals. I wouldn't base my lateral pruning
based on a date but on the date of bloom. The vine will most likely
not produce laterals until after bloom and the most important set of
laterals are the ones closest to the base of the shoot ( closest to
the grapes).

On Sep 21, 8:40*am, michael > wrote:
> On 19 Sep, 10:58, "Paul E. Lehmann" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > shbailey wrote:
> > > On Sep 18, 4:42 am, michael > wrote:
> > >> I thought that I would try again to further my understanding of
> > >> observations on my vines in England this year,based on the very useful
> > >> replies and discussion.There will always be disagreement,but as
> > >> someone new to growing grapevines,I hope that I can understand the
> > >> issues.I apologise to doubi..for my recent comment,and hope that he
> > >> can continue to help.
> > >> Let me try again to summarise my recently gained knowledge:
> > >> 1)Using wood chip as a mulch on the surface around the vine can
> > >> greatly help in the stabilisation of upper soil moisture content,and
> > >> will not affect the nitrogen of the vines-rotovating or digging in
> > >> wood chip will rob the soil,and this is my gardening experience.Garden
> > >> compost could be even better,as it introduces a living worm population
> > >> which may help soil texture.
> > >> 2)Wasps or other insects are not the source of primary damage to
> > >> ripening grapes,but can spread the rot to other grapes in the bunch.A
> > >> primary source of damage could be a heavy rain shower,causing
> > >> splitting,followed by wasps,etc moving in.I think that this is what
> > >> happens with plums after they split when nearing ripeness.My culling
> > >> of the majority of the wasp population will still help,I believe.
> > >> 3)I thought that darker vine leaves to be an indicator of too much
> > >> nitrogen.I would like to know what the indicators are for vines
> > >> needing more phosphates,or potash,so that I know what fertiliser to
> > >> add to my compost.
> > >> 4)One indisputable fact is that my vines and grapes are sofar much
> > >> healthier this year. I believe that probably the main cause is the
> > >> long very warm dry spell here in June-but I do not really know.It
> > >> could be the compost keeping moisture levels stable.
> > >> 5)My original post was about pruning of laterals or sideshoots for
> > >> vigorous vines in a cool climate.My policy now is to remove most of
> > >> them in June and July to prevent a dense canopy developing,thus
> > >> encouraging powdery mildew,and then leave them alone after veraison to
> > >> have maximum leaf for the ripening period.

>
> > >> I hope that my understanding is improving and welcome your comments

>
> > >> Michael

>
> > > The following link provides pictures of grape leaves with various
> > > nutrient deficiencies. *Potash (potassium) and magnesium are the most
> > > common. *Magnesium can be easily supplied with a few spoonfuls of
> > > Epsom salts. *I read the other day that grapes usually don't need
> > > added phosphates. *http://www.honeycreek.us/leaf_chart.php

>
> > > You hit the nail on the head about the benefit of mulch. *If you had a
> > > long warm, dry spell and your vines remained healthy, it was due to
> > > the stable moisture levels enabled by your mulch.

>
> > > Stephen

>
> > It was probably the long warm, dry spell that made the vines healthy. *Vines
> > love and thrive in those conditions.

>
> > I don't think Michael lives in a semi-arid part of the world requiring
> > mulch.- Hide quoted text -

>
> > - Show quoted text -

>
> Hi Paul,
> * * * * * * Although I do not live in a semi-arid part of the world,my
> sloping dry limestone south facing soil does dry extremely quickly
> during the summer.The grass on the adjoining orchard becomes a pale
> straw colour for a couple of months,and the planting of fruit trees in
> the orchard is almost impossible without regular watering in the first
> couple of years.So it may be the case that mulching in March helped
> the vines over the very warm dry June period,and stopped any powdery
> mildew developing.In other years,I have some powdery mildew,even
> though I spray regularly with wettable sulphur.This year I have not
> detected any powdery mildew on any of my four varieties of
> vines.So,maybe the jury is still out as to whether the mulching has
> helped the vines in my particular situation,but I am tempted to mulch
> again next year.
> Best regards
> Michael