(note: I know I'm inconsistent. I'd say I graded tougher than normal
last night, as wines were mostly quite good).
After staying up late for election night, I could have used an early
evening last night, but it was my turn to host SOBER. Luckily, I was
mainly responsible for wines, cheeses, and cleanup; Betsy did all the
cooking and joined the dinner.

I thought of doing a Guy Fawkes theme, but toffee apples and peas in
vinegar didn't really appeal. So I made some menu requests to Betsy,
and got to choosing wines. While SOBER is usually a time to bring out
the big guns, I contemplated a Recession theme, with bottles under
$40. Decided in the end to mix up some QPRs with some more traditional
SOBER wines.

The non-blind starter as people gathered was the 1985 Trimbach
Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Gewurztraminer. Oldest dry Gewurz I've had,
and showing very well. Classic lychee meets ginger, good acidity, some
Rieslingesque petrol notes. John thinks it a little hot. Good length,
I enjoy. B+

Rest of the dinner wines served blind (but not for me)
First course was a pumpkin gratin/souffle with a couple of white
Burgundies.
1999 R& V Dauvissat Vaillons
This was masquerading as a 25 year old Chablis, "old Chardonnay" cries
went up from beginning. Color darkened, PremOx baby, PremOx. Down the
drain. Flawed, NR

2002 Fevre "Bougrous" Chablis Grand Cru
This was easily identified as Chardonnay also, though I think guesses
centered in Cote de Beaune. Lemony fruit, less acidic than classic
Chablis. Ripe but a little flat. Seems older than it should, though
not in full-blown PremOx mode. B-/C+

So far, food is much better than the wine.

Next up Betsy had some puff pastry with a mushroom sauce and a dab of
creme fraiche. This flight was easily identified by everyone as red
Burgundy, but guesses were centered around Chambolle and Volnay. Led
to a discussion of Savigny as the value center of Burgundy (though I
noted prices have been going up of late as more and more people look
to Savigny)

1993 Mongeard-Mugneret "Les Narbantons" Savigny-les-Beaune 1er
Forward ripe fruit, but with a good acidic spine. Black raspberries,
some earth, drinking very well. B+

1993 Maurice Ecard "Les Narbantons" Savigny-les-Beaune 1er
A little more reticent, but also more layered. Red berry fruit , damp
soil, a touch of perfumey spice. Elegant yet with a bit of power. A re-
sip at midnight while cleaning up is even better.A-

Next flight came between courses, quick consensus "we're not in France
any more," but initial guesses centered on Italy.

1973 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva
I think I would have guessed Barolo if this was blind for me. Sweet
red fruit, some tar and iron filings, nice length, light but with good
concentration. B+

1981 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva
Shows much younger, backbone of acidity and some tannin, fresh red
fruit. Lots of potential. This is really singing about midnight. A-

Next course was osso buco with a risotto with speck and mushrooms,
with brussels sprouts. John got Medoc quickly, Mark got Margaux and
then Rausan Segla, John got the '83 and someone guessed the '86. No
mystery here!

1983 Rausan Segla
Ripe red and black fruit, lush texture, some cigarbox. Showing quite
nicely, yum. B+

1986 Rausan Segla
I thought this was lovely, though at least some people preferred the
'83. Tannins are still there, but ripe and supple rather than drying
or hard. Cassis and a bit of ripe red plum, earth, smoke, cedar.
Challenger for WOTN. A-

On the last dabs of the meal and some cheese (Montgomery Cheddar,
Reblechon, St Nectaire, and Tomme de Savoie), the final blind flight.
Dan got Graves quickly for the LMHB, and John was on Right Bank for
the Canons, but all the initial guesses were younger than these wines
(whch all showed very fresh in my opinion).

1970 La Mission de Haut Brion
Earth and a mushroomy note, cassis and black raspberries, some
cigarbox aromas. Young, vigorous, complex. Still a bit of tannin, but
not obtrusive. Could pass for 15 years younger. A-

1970 Canon
A touch herbal.minty (which led to some Cab Franc guesses). Good
acidity, tannins pretty much bye-bye, fairly classic mature claret. B+/
A-

1971 Canon
This was my ultimate Recession wine. An overlooked vintage, I picked
up this year for $25, based on tasting it about 5-6 years ago. Rich
red fruit with chocolatey overtones, resolved tannins, fresh. I liked
a hair better than the '70. A-/B+

For the finale we had a non-blind 375, the 1976 Zilliken Saarburger
Bergschlossen Riesling Beerenauslese. I thought John would be
interested to try this, he had done a big article on Zilliken/FG a
year or two ago. This is a vineyard that they now use for the Buttefly
QbA. Cork broke and I decanted, color darkened quickly. Apricots,
honey and caramel. I'm surprised how low-acid it seems compared to
other '76 sweet wines I've tried, John says it would be one thing for
the Rhine, but very surprising for Saar. This is certainly pleasant,
but to me not the stunner I would hope for with the vintage and level.
Maybe why it's used un a QbA now! Of course, cork was crumbly, so
maybe some air got it. For this bottle, B

Overall, I was very pleased with the showing of the reds. Pretty much
any one could have been a centerpiece of a dinner. Only the Trimbach
did as well as I hoped with the whites.A fun night with a good group,
as always.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
*