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DaleW DaleW is offline
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Default TN: dinner with the Liptons (Burg, Bdx, Rhne, Loire,Wachau etc)

On Feb 10, 1:55�pm, DaleW > wrote:
> Mark and Jean Lipton were in town, and Betsy and I were delighted to
> join them for dinner. A planned slight detour by Lincoln Center turned
> into a minor traffic nightmare, so we were a bit late getting to
> Cendrillon in SoHo. We arrived to find Mark, Jean, the real Jay
> Miller, and the renowned SFJoe (who I'd never met before) patiently
> waiting.
>
> A nice assortment of wines followed. I was a tad out of sorts, and
> didn't take notes at the time, but following are some impressions. I
> will say the food at Cendrillon was excellent. I had an extraordinary
> goat curry with chutney and rice pancakes, followed by a tasty oxtail
> dish with an unusual fermented shrimp paste. Betsy had the lumpia,
> which I thought was like an egg roll (based on my one previous
> Filipino meal), but was more of a big wrap filled with veggies. Her
> main was very good shortribs with an excellent sauce. We brought most
> of our wines, but list was VERY interesting and well-priced for NY.
>
> The white wines:
> 1964 Huet Vouvray Sec
> This was actually a petillant, though label said Sec not Brut. Some
> petillance remaining, baked apples and lemon, good length, very
> interesting wine. B+/B
>
> 1991 Alzinger "Durnsteiner Hollerin" Riesling Smaragd
> I found this a delightful surprise. From an "off" vintage, proof that
> good producers make good wine. In this case very good wine. Lighter
> than any Wachau Smaragd I've run across, sprightly wine with apple,
> peach, and ginger flavors. Delicate hints of petrol, though on a
> revisit later in night that was even less apparent. I quite enjoyed
> this. B+/A-
>
> 1998 Franz Hirtzberger "Singerriedel" �Riesling Smaragd
> Much bigger Riesling. Dry, but with a ripe fruit profile. Peach,
> honey, apricot. Some earth and smoke notes. Powerful, good, �but I
> think I preferred the Alzinger from a lesser vintage overall. B+
>
> 2002 Puffeney Arbois Savagnin
> Wild nose that reminds me of dried mushrooms with a hint of overripe
> sheeps cheese, not quite like anything I ever smelled before. Palate
> is much more conventional, rather easy drinking, though edging on hot.
> I think others liked more than I did, I found the nose intriguing, but
> not inviting. To be a true geek maybe one has to learn to love oddball
> wines like this (and Vin Jaune, and obscure Sherries), but I'll just
> remain a bystander. Nice to watch, but not my fave to drink. B-/C+
>
> 1996 Soucherie "Clos des Perrieres" Savennieres
> My other contribution. Very muted at first, almost dilute. Picks up
> weight and flavor with time. Apple, wax, and lemon rind, good acidity,
> nice wine. I like, but don't find the depth I had in '96 Closel or
> even the regular Baumard (good bottles). B
>
> The red wines
> 1978 Haut-Bailly
> I think this is the 3rd time I've had one of these from Jay's stash.
> Jay thinks this bottle substandard, but I quite enjoyed (especially at
> end of evening). Not at all a blockbuster, some might find thin, but I
> found elegant and balanced. Good acidity, bright red-toned fruit, lots
> of cedar and tobacco aromas. Maybe could use a lighter more density
> and length, but a very nice wine with food. B+
>
> 1998 Drouhin "Clos des Chenes" Volnay
> This is showing a tad rough and coarse right now. Big, good dark berry
> fruit, high acidity, some tannins. I think this is probably the best
> wine we had this night, but really not ready, and less fun to taste
> now. Everyone keeps saying the '98s are drinking well, but I keep
> thinking they need more time. This night this one is a B/B-. Bet in
> 5-10 I'll be thinking a variance on an A.
>
> 1998 Grivot Vosne-Romanee
> OK, so here is a '98 that is drinking ok. Clean cherry fruit, a little
> hint of kirsch (though not at all overripe), some spice. Not a big
> wine, but a nice dinner companion. B/B+
>
> 1997 Ogier Cote-Rotie
> I think I liked this more than others. Friendly puppy dog of a
> Northern Rhone, round blackberry and cherry fruit, some smoked meat
> and floral notes. Ferric/mineral edge on finish, very good. B+/A-
>
> Fun night, even if I was beat. Nice to see Mark, Jean, and Jay again,
> good to meet Joe. I liked lots of the wines, and loved the food. The
> owner/chef joined us for a few tastes, and there was no corkage charge
> on the bill. Even with a lavish tip it was a fairly cheap evening.
> I'll be back to the restaurant (as I noted, nice list).
>
> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.


oh yeah, and a '95 Luneau-Papin L' d'Or was corked.