Mark and Jean Lipton were in town, and Betsy and I were delighted to
join them for dinner. A planned slight detour by Lincoln Center turned
into a minor traffic nightmare, so we were a bit late getting to
Cendrillon in SoHo. We arrived to find Mark, Jean, the real Jay
Miller, and the renowned SFJoe (who I'd never met before) patiently
waiting.

A nice assortment of wines followed. I was a tad out of sorts, and
didn't take notes at the time, but following are some impressions. I
will say the food at Cendrillon was excellent. I had an extraordinary
goat curry with chutney and rice pancakes, followed by a tasty oxtail
dish with an unusual fermented shrimp paste. Betsy had the lumpia,
which I thought was like an egg roll (based on my one previous
Filipino meal), but was more of a big wrap filled with veggies. Her
main was very good shortribs with an excellent sauce. We brought most
of our wines, but list was VERY interesting and well-priced for NY.

The white wines:
1964 Huet Vouvray Sec
This was actually a petillant, though label said Sec not Brut. Some
petillance remaining, baked apples and lemon, good length, very
interesting wine. B+/B

1991 Alzinger "Durnsteiner Hollerin" Riesling Smaragd
I found this a delightful surprise. From an "off" vintage, proof that
good producers make good wine. In this case very good wine. Lighter
than any Wachau Smaragd I've run across, sprightly wine with apple,
peach, and ginger flavors. Delicate hints of petrol, though on a
revisit later in night that was even less apparent. I quite enjoyed
this. B+/A-

1998 Franz Hirtzberger "Singerriedel" Riesling Smaragd
Much bigger Riesling. Dry, but with a ripe fruit profile. Peach,
honey, apricot. Some earth and smoke notes. Powerful, good, but I
think I preferred the Alzinger from a lesser vintage overall. B+

2002 Puffeney Arbois Savagnin
Wild nose that reminds me of dried mushrooms with a hint of overripe
sheeps cheese, not quite like anything I ever smelled before. Palate
is much more conventional, rather easy drinking, though edging on hot.
I think others liked more than I did, I found the nose intriguing, but
not inviting. To be a true geek maybe one has to learn to love oddball
wines like this (and Vin Jaune, and obscure Sherries), but I'll just
remain a bystander. Nice to watch, but not my fave to drink. B-/C+

1996 Soucherie "Clos des Perrieres" Savennieres
My other contribution. Very muted at first, almost dilute. Picks up
weight and flavor with time. Apple, wax, and lemon rind, good acidity,
nice wine. I like, but don't find the depth I had in '96 Closel or
even the regular Baumard (good bottles). B

The red wines
1978 Haut-Bailly
I think this is the 3rd time I've had one of these from Jay's stash.
Jay thinks this bottle substandard, but I quite enjoyed (especially at
end of evening). Not at all a blockbuster, some might find thin, but I
found elegant and balanced. Good acidity, bright red-toned fruit, lots
of cedar and tobacco aromas. Maybe could use a lighter more density
and length, but a very nice wine with food. B+

1998 Drouhin "Clos des Chenes" Volnay
This is showing a tad rough and coarse right now. Big, good dark berry
fruit, high acidity, some tannins. I think this is probably the best
wine we had this night, but really not ready, and less fun to taste
now. Everyone keeps saying the '98s are drinking well, but I keep
thinking they need more time. This night this one is a B/B-. Bet in
5-10 I'll be thinking a variance on an A.

1998 Grivot Vosne-Romanee
OK, so here is a '98 that is drinking ok. Clean cherry fruit, a little
hint of kirsch (though not at all overripe), some spice. Not a big
wine, but a nice dinner companion. B/B+

1997 Ogier Cote-Rotie
I think I liked this more than others. Friendly puppy dog of a
Northern Rhone, round blackberry and cherry fruit, some smoked meat
and floral notes. Ferric/mineral edge on finish, very good. B+/A-

Fun night, even if I was beat. Nice to see Mark, Jean, and Jay again,
good to meet Joe. I liked lots of the wines, and loved the food. The
owner/chef joined us for a few tastes, and there was no corkage charge
on the bill. Even with a lavish tip it was a fairly cheap evening.
I'll be back to the restaurant (as I noted, nice list).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.