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Joe Sallustio Joe Sallustio is offline
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Default Inoculation, chemicals and water quantity calculations for asecond wine...

On Feb 2, 5:13 am, jim > wrote:
> On Feb 2, 9:21 am, Luc Volders > wrote:
>
>
>
> > jim wrote:
> > > Firstly, can I presume that the fruit in the straining bags will
> > > contain enough active yeast cells to inoculate the new batch or should
> > > I plan to add fermenting wine from the first batch back in to jump
> > > start the second? I am guessing it will be self inoculating.

>
> > I have made second wines from elderberry frequently but I did it
> > differently. Each time I pressed the pulp I would put the pulp
> > in the freezer. After a while I had a whole lot of frozen pulp
> > to make a large secondary batch.

>
> > I then re-inoculated the pulp with a starter.

>
> > But as you are making it directly from the pulp there
> > will certainly be enough active yeast cells in the pulp
> > for starting the second wine.

>
> > > Secondly - if the straining bags from the first wine are enough to
> > > start the inoculation - would I be fine using lukewarm water rather
> > > than hot?

>
> > Using hot water will kill the living yeast cells.
> > So use water having a temperature of max 25 degrees celsius.

>
> > > If not, I guess I'd be into a re-inoculation anyway. No
> > > big deal since I could keep a little of the must from the first wine
> > > by, in order to re-inoculate. Am I also correct that there is nothing
> > > to gain by adding more pectic enzyme the second time around, since the
> > > fruit has already been treated?

>
> > I never used pectic enzymes on my seconds.

>
> > I did however just wrote a small article on my web-log
> > (http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/) that proved the use of pectic
> > enzymes.

>
> > However I did some more test which I will write another article on
> > in the near future. One of the test showed me that pectic
> > enzymes did not work in an active fermentation. I do have to conduct
> > more tests on this but for now I think therefore that adding pectic enzymes
> > would do nothing at this stage.

>
> > > Thirdly should I make much allowance for volume leeched from the
> > > fruit's remaining flesh or will most of the leechable flesh/juice be
> > > gone?

>
> > Most will be gone in the first batch.
> > There will be a lot less sediment from lees.

>
> > > Many thanks in advance, any other tips gained from experience in this
> > > method would also be well received!

>
> > > Jim

>
> > I used a one on one mix. So one liter water for 1 kilo pulp.
> > But then I used pure elderberry pulp. In most books it is
> > advised to use half a liter water on 1 kilo pulp.
> > So err on the safe side.
> > Make a light wine from this. Something about 11% alcohol.
> > The elderberries have enough tannin to make a beautiful second wine.

>
> > Monitor color and taste closely. I had my seconds pulp
> > fermenting for no more as 3 days. Most color and flavors
> > will be in the first batch. The second wine gets the left overs.

>
> > Luc

>
> > --http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/

>
> Thanks Luc, most helpful - and thanks for the pointers to your blog.
> I have often enjoyed your output (most considerate to include
> translations as well as the original Dutch).
>
> If the must seems very weak from the pulp that I have I guess I might
> go to plan B and make a different wine. I guess I could use the pulp
> with a few more raisins and some dried sloes to make an interesting
> hybrid. Otherwise I will bear these pointers in mind and make the
> light elderberry/blackberry.
>
> Kind regards, Jim


Jim,
I have only made a second wine once and from grapes but I used 1/3 the
volume of the original must, in other words once I pressed the wine I
guess-timated the volume of skins and added water sugar and acid to
bring it up to 1/3 of the original volume. It's surprisingly
drinkable; thin, but not insipid. I expected to have 5 gallons of
vinegar stock, it's not.

Joe