On Feb 2, 9:21 am, Luc Volders > wrote:
> jim wrote:
> > Firstly, can I presume that the fruit in the straining bags will
> > contain enough active yeast cells to inoculate the new batch or should
> > I plan to add fermenting wine from the first batch back in to jump
> > start the second? I am guessing it will be self inoculating.
>
> I have made second wines from elderberry frequently but I did it
> differently. Each time I pressed the pulp I would put the pulp
> in the freezer. After a while I had a whole lot of frozen pulp
> to make a large secondary batch.
>
> I then re-inoculated the pulp with a starter.
>
> But as you are making it directly from the pulp there
> will certainly be enough active yeast cells in the pulp
> for starting the second wine.
>
> > Secondly - if the straining bags from the first wine are enough to
> > start the inoculation - would I be fine using lukewarm water rather
> > than hot?
>
> Using hot water will kill the living yeast cells.
> So use water having a temperature of max 25 degrees celsius.
>
> > If not, I guess I'd be into a re-inoculation anyway. No
> > big deal since I could keep a little of the must from the first wine
> > by, in order to re-inoculate. Am I also correct that there is nothing
> > to gain by adding more pectic enzyme the second time around, since the
> > fruit has already been treated?
>
> I never used pectic enzymes on my seconds.
>
> I did however just wrote a small article on my web-log
> (http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/) that proved the use of pectic
> enzymes.
>
> However I did some more test which I will write another article on
> in the near future. One of the test showed me that pectic
> enzymes did not work in an active fermentation. I do have to conduct
> more tests on this but for now I think therefore that adding pectic enzymes
> would do nothing at this stage.
>
>
>
> > Thirdly should I make much allowance for volume leeched from the
> > fruit's remaining flesh or will most of the leechable flesh/juice be
> > gone?
>
> Most will be gone in the first batch.
> There will be a lot less sediment from lees.
>
>
>
> > Many thanks in advance, any other tips gained from experience in this
> > method would also be well received!
>
> > Jim
>
> I used a one on one mix. So one liter water for 1 kilo pulp.
> But then I used pure elderberry pulp. In most books it is
> advised to use half a liter water on 1 kilo pulp.
> So err on the safe side.
> Make a light wine from this. Something about 11% alcohol.
> The elderberries have enough tannin to make a beautiful second wine.
>
> Monitor color and taste closely. I had my seconds pulp
> fermenting for no more as 3 days. Most color and flavors
> will be in the first batch. The second wine gets the left overs.
>
> Luc
>
> --http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/

Thanks Luc, most helpful - and thanks for the pointers to your blog.
I have often enjoyed your output (most considerate to include
translations as well as the original Dutch).

If the must seems very weak from the pulp that I have I guess I might
go to plan B and make a different wine. I guess I could use the pulp
with a few more raisins and some dried sloes to make an interesting
hybrid. Otherwise I will bear these pointers in mind and make the
light elderberry/blackberry.

Kind regards, Jim