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Luc Volders[_2_] Luc Volders[_2_] is offline
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Default Inoculation, chemicals and water quantity calculations for a second wine...

jim wrote:

> Firstly, can I presume that the fruit in the straining bags will
> contain enough active yeast cells to inoculate the new batch or should
> I plan to add fermenting wine from the first batch back in to jump
> start the second? I am guessing it will be self inoculating.


I have made second wines from elderberry frequently but I did it
differently. Each time I pressed the pulp I would put the pulp
in the freezer. After a while I had a whole lot of frozen pulp
to make a large secondary batch.

I then re-inoculated the pulp with a starter.

But as you are making it directly from the pulp there
will certainly be enough active yeast cells in the pulp
for starting the second wine.

> Secondly - if the straining bags from the first wine are enough to
> start the inoculation - would I be fine using lukewarm water rather
> than hot?


Using hot water will kill the living yeast cells.
So use water having a temperature of max 25 degrees celsius.

> If not, I guess I'd be into a re-inoculation anyway. No
> big deal since I could keep a little of the must from the first wine
> by, in order to re-inoculate. Am I also correct that there is nothing
> to gain by adding more pectic enzyme the second time around, since the
> fruit has already been treated?


I never used pectic enzymes on my seconds.

I did however just wrote a small article on my web-log
( http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/ ) that proved the use of pectic
enzymes.

However I did some more test which I will write another article on
in the near future. One of the test showed me that pectic
enzymes did not work in an active fermentation. I do have to conduct
more tests on this but for now I think therefore that adding pectic enzymes
would do nothing at this stage.

>
> Thirdly should I make much allowance for volume leeched from the
> fruit's remaining flesh or will most of the leechable flesh/juice be
> gone?


Most will be gone in the first batch.
There will be a lot less sediment from lees.
>
> Many thanks in advance, any other tips gained from experience in this
> method would also be well received!
>
> Jim


I used a one on one mix. So one liter water for 1 kilo pulp.
But then I used pure elderberry pulp. In most books it is
advised to use half a liter water on 1 kilo pulp.
So err on the safe side.
Make a light wine from this. Something about 11% alcohol.
The elderberries have enough tannin to make a beautiful second wine.

Monitor color and taste closely. I had my seconds pulp
fermenting for no more as 3 days. Most color and flavors
will be in the first batch. The second wine gets the left overs.

Luc

--
http://www.wijnmaker.blogspot.com/