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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes.

When to add the ML culture?



 
 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 20-10-2005, 06:33 PM
Diamond Vintner Diamond Vintner is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Diamond Bar
Posts: 9
Default When to add the ML culture?

I've read the 'ML?' post by Jim and it got me thinking about the two batches of Merlot I have in primary. I obtained fresh grapes from a farm in Escondido, the numbers were 24 Brix and total acid 62.5%. I don't have the test kit for Tartaric or pH (I know, no flaming please).
I crushed and split the 11+ gallons of must into two batches after adding 10 Campden tablets. I let it set overnight and and the next morning added 'Pasteur Red' yeast to one batch and a Lalvin yeast (the name escapes me) to the other. Day 5 showed 1.02 SG on the Red and 1.00 on the Lalvin. At this point I innoculated the Red with White labs Malolactic WLP675. Since I could only get my hands on one tube of Malo I didn't innoculate the Lalvin batch. Also, since I'm new to wine making this year I thought it best to see the differences between with the Malo and without it.
Sorry for the novel my questions a

When is the time to add the Malo?

'From Vines to Wines' has a general statement about 'when the primary slows down' or 'at the end of primary fermentation' add the culture.

What effect does this have if you add late vs. sooner in the primary?

White Labs web site does have general instructions but nothing specific. I understand it's up to the taste of the winemaker but since I'm new to this I'm trying to develope a game plan based on desired effect, in this case for me it's an unknown.
I plan on having the skins in the must for 8-10 days before removing them and transferring to the glass secondary.

From the drive down to pick up the grapes, to the kids in the barrels crushing them, to watching the juice turn to wine, it is fun and quite a diversion from the day to day.

Enjoy and Thanks in advance!

DV
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 20-10-2005, 09:53 PM
Ric
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Default When to add the ML culture?

I'm as interested as you in the other replies you'll get to this
question. For my own part, I have been fermenting reds in open vats
(typically 50 gals of must). I have been adding ML (pitched straight
in, not started) late in in the primary - typically just a few days
before I press and take to secondary. The MLF appears to continue for
quite a while in secondary, although varies with each batch of wine.

  #3 (permalink)  
Old 21-10-2005, 04:01 AM
Jim
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Default When to add the ML culture?

I am fermenting about 400 lbs. in a 45 gallon plastic primary
fermentor then I have been adding Scott Lab MBR41 or MBR31 at the end
of alcoholic fermentation along with some Scott Lab Optimalo for
insurance. I lay a plastic garbage bag on top of the must and will
incorporate Tom's idea of a little spitz of metabisulphate on top of
the plastic. I will probably stir every couple of days and at 20Cel.
or 70Far. The ML should be complete in 2 weeks and I can press of add
50ppm of SO2 and now let the wine settle in my secondary.
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 21-10-2005, 05:12 AM
Diamond Vintner Diamond Vintner is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Diamond Bar
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric
I'm as interested as you in the other replies you'll get to this
question. For my own part, I have been fermenting reds in open vats
(typically 50 gals of must). I have been adding ML (pitched straight
in, not started) late in in the primary - typically just a few days
before I press and take to secondary. The MLF appears to continue for
quite a while in secondary, although varies with each batch of wine.
Ric, Thanks for the reply, I was starting to think this was a ghost town. Did you measure SG when you added the ML? And if so, have you varied the point at which you add, weighing the end result?

I'm curious to hear of your and others experiences with this type of adjustment.

DV
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 21-10-2005, 09:05 AM
Ben Rotter
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Default When to add the ML culture?

DV,

There are a number of issues to consider with regards to the timing of
MLB inoculation.

See under "Timing of inoculation of cultured MLB" at
http://members.tripod.com/~BRotter/MLF.htm.

HTH,
Ben

  #6 (permalink)  
Old 21-10-2005, 03:08 PM
Tom S
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Default When to add the ML culture?


"Jim" wrote in message
...
I am fermenting about 400 lbs. in a 45 gallon plastic primary
fermentor then I have been adding Scott Lab MBR41 or MBR31 at the end
of alcoholic fermentation along with some Scott Lab Optimalo for
insurance. I lay a plastic garbage bag on top of the must and will
incorporate Tom's idea of a little spitz of metabisulphite on top of
the plastic.


Actually, I suggested spritzing (lightly) the top of the cap and wiping down
the walls of the fermentor with sulfite solution _before_ covering with the
plastic. Sulfite on _top_ of the plastic will do nothing to protect the
wine on the other side of it.

I will probably stir every couple of days and at 20Cel.
or 70Far. The ML should be complete in 2 weeks and I can press of add
50ppm of SO2 and now let the wine settle in my secondary.


I wouldn't be too hasty about adding the sulfite after pressing. You want
to be sure that ML is complete, and it may take more than 2 weeks for that
to happen.

Better is to settle the wine for an hour or two after pressing, then rack
away from the heaviest of the lees into your carboys/kegs/barrel under
airlock, topped up, until you're certain ML is finished. Then it's time to
sulfite.

Tom S


  #7 (permalink)  
Old 21-10-2005, 03:54 PM
Jim
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Default When to add the ML culture?

On 21 Oct 2005 01:05:31 -0700, "Ben Rotter"
wrote:

DV,

There are a number of issues to consider with regards to the timing of
MLB inoculation.

See under "Timing of inoculation of cultured MLB" at
http://members.tripod.com/~BRotter/MLF.htm.

HTH,
Ben

Well after reading this article I have decided to no longer perform ML
on the gross lees but instead press of after alcoholic fermentation
wait 3 days to allow settling rack and then add my ML to the remaining
fine lees. Keep the carboids under air lock and as Tom suggested stir
every couple of days till ML is complete add 50ppm SO2, rack then bulk
age. How does this protocol sound?

  #8 (permalink)  
Old 22-10-2005, 03:49 AM
Tom S
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Default When to add the ML culture?


"Jim" wrote in message
...
On 21 Oct 2005 01:05:31 -0700, "Ben Rotter"
wrote:

DV,

There are a number of issues to consider with regards to the timing of
MLB inoculation.

See under "Timing of inoculation of cultured MLB" at
http://members.tripod.com/~BRotter/MLF.htm.

HTH,
Ben

Well after reading this article I have decided to no longer perform ML
on the gross lees but instead press of after alcoholic fermentation
wait 3 days to allow settling rack and then add my ML to the remaining
fine lees. Keep the carboys under air lock and as Tom suggested stir
every couple of days till ML is complete add 50ppm SO2, rack then bulk
age. How does this protocol sound?


That'll work. You probably woudn't need to stir using that protocol since
you will only have fine lees. It's only when you have gross lees present
that you have a potential H2S problem.

Tom S


  #9 (permalink)  
Old 22-10-2005, 07:08 AM
Jim
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Posts: n/a
Default When to add the ML culture?

Thank you for the support Tom and I will refrain from stirring. One
less thing for me to do leaves me more time to drink wine.

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 02:49:52 GMT, "Tom S"
wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
.. .
On 21 Oct 2005 01:05:31 -0700, "Ben Rotter"
wrote:

DV,

There are a number of issues to consider with regards to the timing of
MLB inoculation.

See under "Timing of inoculation of cultured MLB" at
http://members.tripod.com/~BRotter/MLF.htm.

HTH,
Ben

Well after reading this article I have decided to no longer perform ML
on the gross lees but instead press of after alcoholic fermentation
wait 3 days to allow settling rack and then add my ML to the remaining
fine lees. Keep the carboys under air lock and as Tom suggested stir
every couple of days till ML is complete add 50ppm SO2, rack then bulk
age. How does this protocol sound?


That'll work. You probably woudn't need to stir using that protocol since
you will only have fine lees. It's only when you have gross lees present
that you have a potential H2S problem.

Tom S


 




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