Hey everyone.

My grapes are arriving next weekend and being that the "paddle" section of
my cap tool has been rendered unusable, I was thinking of punching a round
piece of Al laying around for the paddle end. The Al would be then attached
to the piece of oak I have for a handle.

I'm already breaking the rules and using red oak from the hardware store. I
figure the short time each of these materials are in contact with the must,
we are safe and not imparting noticeable tastes/scents.

What is everyone's thought on the Al tool end? On the red oak, what are the
concerns about treatment of the lumber when it is kiln dried? I've been
using the red oak handle for two crushings now and everyone's still
standing.


Patrick

"patrick mcdonald" wrote in
message ...
Hey everyone.

My grapes are arriving next weekend and being that the "paddle" section of
my cap tool has been rendered unusable, I was thinking of punching a round
piece of Al laying around for the paddle end. The Al would be then
attached to the piece of oak I have for a handle.

I'm already breaking the rules and using red oak from the hardware store.
I figure the short time each of these materials are in contact with the
must, we are safe and not imparting noticeable tastes/scents.

What is everyone's thought on the Al tool end? On the red oak, what are
the concerns about treatment of the lumber when it is kiln dried? I've
been using the red oak handle for two crushings now and everyone's still
standing.

I wouldn't worry about any of it - except for the gap between the plate and
the end of the handle, and the fastener.

Why don't you just make the foot out of plywood instead of aluminum, screw
and glue it to the handle, and varnish the entire thing?

Tom S

Tom S,
That's better news than I thought. Yes, I never liked the gaps in the
older tool. Varnishing would eliminate them.

Checking certain threads in the archives, it doesn't seem that it's
imperative to use the "food grade" spar varnish I've heard mentioned
before. Do you agree?


Patrick

Patrick,

The Al shouldn't be a problem, especially if you keep the tool dry, or
at least non acidic, between uses.
I just built one this season from a four ft. piece of 3/4" dowel and a
heavy plastic disc. Lotsa holes in the disc and a deck screw to hold it
on. The dowel received a coupla spray coats of clear acrylic to seal the
wood, with a day or so to dry in the sun before using. No odor remained.
Between uses I stand it in a bucket of meta soln.
As long as there are no nasties growing in the pores or crevices, almost
any unreactive material will be fine.

--


Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA



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wrote in message
ups.com...
Checking certain threads in the archives, it doesn't seem that it's
imperative to use the "food grade" spar varnish I've heard mentioned
before. Do you agree?

I used Man-O-War on my press and have had no problems. Whatever you use,
it's most important that you let it dry thoroughly before use.

Tom S

I made a punch down tool using 4 inch pvc pipe. Just cut a 2 or 3 foot
section and glue a flat pvc cap to the end. This works very nicely
because it both pushes them down and it floats itself back to the
surface so there's no real strength needed in raising it back up. It
also doesn't let the cap get in on top of itself because it has no
'top' to the plate and it's really easy to wash.
Bill