![]() |
|
Welcome to FoodBanter.com forums which provide access to the finest food and drink related newsgroups. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most newsgroup discussions and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics to the food related newsgroups, communicate privately with other FoodBanter.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload your own photos and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. |
|
|||||||
| Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Absolutely. In fact, you could say that it kinda has to be, in most cases. In most varieties, older wood doesn't produce fruiting canes, 'though there are exceptions. Each node on this year's fruiting cane will give rise to a fruiting cane next year. That's why there are so many pruning schemes like cordon & spur, or cane & renewal spur. Otherwise the fruiting wood is too far out from the trunk. HTH -- Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
|
|||
|
that confirms what I'm experiencing this year then: fruiting canes that were
last years fruiting shoots. In the mean time I've been growing specific non-fruting shoots this year--from the lower trunk--for next years fruiting cane. but it's not growing as vigorously as I hoped, probably because most of the nutrient is going into the fruit above, and because it is in the lower canopy with less sun, etc. In this case then, I may hack off the lower shoot--which is probably a nutrient sink--and refocus on another healthier shoot as next years fruting cane(s). sound about right? Jeff wrote in message ... Absolutely. In fact, you could say that it kinda has to be, in most cases. In most varieties, older wood doesn't produce fruiting canes, 'though there are exceptions. Each node on this year's fruiting cane will give rise to a fruiting cane next year. That's why there are so many pruning schemes like cordon & spur, or cane & renewal spur. Otherwise the fruiting wood is too far out from the trunk. HTH -- Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
|
|||
|
Depending on your pruning (trellising) method, you probably want the upper canes anyway. Exceptions would be if you have a need to replace the trunk, or are in a climate that makes it likely that the trunk will be damaged a certain percentage of years. Be sure to get next years fruiting cane up in the sunlight this year, because this is necessary for it to develop the fruiting buds for next year. It also needs growing time to harden off so it can survive the winter. HTH -- Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Chef's knife question | scyld | Cooking Equipment | 5 | 15-03-2004 05:00 PM |
| Chef's knife question | scyld | Preserving | 5 | 15-03-2004 05:00 PM |