![]() |
|
Welcome to FoodBanter.com forums which provide access to the finest food and drink related newsgroups. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most newsgroup discussions and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics to the food related newsgroups, communicate privately with other FoodBanter.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload your own photos and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. |
|
|||||||
| Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Hi. Here I go with my first post to this group. I've enjoyed
following it for some time from the side lines. Here's my question... I am making about 3 gallons of an apple wine that I started with some lovely fresh apples. All was going exceedingly well until this week all seems to have stopped. I have been watching the batch carefully and there is definitely nothing going on inside that carboy. The spec.gravity has stopped at 1025, so it's not quite ready to finish just yet. I have done some reading about re-starting the fermentation process, what I wanted was some opinions on what might be going on. I also want to be bold and just outright ask "What WOULD happen if I just added more yeast to the batch, obviously there is still sugar to feed the yeast, etc?" I realize this is my ignorance showing and I appreciate what guidance can be offered in return. Cheers, thanks. Chris Mears Charlottetown, PEI, Canada |
|
|||
|
hi chris & welcome... can you tell us please: what was yr starting SG &
what yeast did you use? did you taking any other readings like TA or pH? also what else besides apples is in the 3 gals you've got going? You can always pitch more yeast...but that could just stall too. More info will allow your question to be answered more thoroughly. regards, bob "chrismears" wrote in message ... Hi. Here I go with my first post to this group. I've enjoyed following it for some time from the side lines. Here's my question... I am making about 3 gallons of an apple wine that I started with some lovely fresh apples. All was going exceedingly well until this week all seems to have stopped. I have been watching the batch carefully and there is definitely nothing going on inside that carboy. The spec.gravity has stopped at 1025, so it's not quite ready to finish just yet. I have done some reading about re-starting the fermentation process, what I wanted was some opinions on what might be going on. I also want to be bold and just outright ask "What WOULD happen if I just added more yeast to the batch, obviously there is still sugar to feed the yeast, etc?" I realize this is my ignorance showing and I appreciate what guidance can be offered in return. Cheers, thanks. Chris Mears Charlottetown, PEI, Canada |
|
|||
|
On Nov 23, 3:46 pm, chrismears wrote:
Hi. Here I go with my first post to this group. I've enjoyed following it for some time from the side lines. Here's my question... I am making about 3 gallons of an apple wine that I started with some lovely fresh apples. All was going exceedingly well until this week all seems to have stopped. I have been watching the batch carefully and there is definitely nothing going on inside that carboy. The spec.gravity has stopped at 1025, so it's not quite ready to finish just yet. I have done some reading about re-starting the fermentation process, what I wanted was some opinions on what might be going on. I also want to be bold and just outright ask "What WOULD happen if I just added more yeast to the batch, obviously there is still sugar to feed the yeast, etc?" I realize this is my ignorance showing and I appreciate what guidance can be offered in return. Cheers, thanks. Chris Mears Charlottetown, PEI, Canada Well, first make sure it's warm enough, most yeasts work better from 20 to 30C. Just adding yeast to a stuck fermentation usually ends up in more wasted yeast. You are better off building a starter and feeding it into the batch a bit at a time (pull off some of the batch and add it to the starter, not the other way around). Joe. |
|
|||
|
On Nov 23, 7:13 pm, "bobdrob" wrote:
hi chris & welcome... can you tell us please: what was yr starting SG & what yeast did you use? did you taking any other readings like TA or pH? also what else besides apples is in the 3 gals you've got going? You can always pitch more yeast...but that could just stall too. More info will allow your question to be answered more thoroughly. regards, bob Hi. The recipe is just a basic apples+water+sugar+yeast (+nutrient, campden, etc). I didn't take any extra readings when I put this one together, but the initial SG was at 1100. The batch is about a month and a half old and has been a very slow product so far - the slow bit I'm not at all worried with. It's being kept in my pantry, so it is at about room temperature all the time. Cheers Chris |
|
|||
|
Well, first make sure it's warm enough, most yeasts work better from 20 to 30C. Just adding yeast to a stuck fermentation usually ends up in more wasted yeast. You are better off building a starter and feeding it into the batch a bit at a time (pull off some of the batch and add it to the starter, not the other way around). Joe. Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. In other news, I have a second lovely batch that is working out well; it is clearing now and I am looking forward to bottling it soon. Cheers Chris |
|
|||
|
"chrismears" wrote in message ... On Nov 23, 7:13 pm, "bobdrob" wrote: hi chris & welcome... can you tell us please: what was yr starting SG & what yeast did you use? did you taking any other readings like TA or pH? also what else besides apples is in the 3 gals you've got going? You can always pitch more yeast...but that could just stall too. More info will allow your question to be answered more thoroughly. regards, bob Hi. The recipe is just a basic apples+water+sugar+yeast (+nutrient, campden, etc). I didn't take any extra readings when I put this one together, but the initial SG was at 1100. The batch is about a month and a half old and has been a very slow product so far - the slow bit I'm not at all worried with. It's being kept in my pantry, so it is at about room temperature all the time. Cheers Chris Uhhhm, if the original SG was 1.110, then your in the potential alky-hol range of 20+ % , or as we like to refer to it, knockout juice! my cohorts & i 've been making KO-J for a couple of years.Being in that range suggests that yr yeasties gave it their all then gave up the ghost; if you're in that range, restarting the yeast is an option that will involve propagating a large, more alcohol tolerant batch to pitch & will take a few days to accomplish. Alternatively, have you tasted it yet? If your culture partyed itself into yeast-oblivion @ 20% potential alcohol, try it; it may have a pleasant sweetness to it before it sends you down tipsy street. If this is the case, fret no more- let it sit to clarify racking as usual, etc. We've bottled 4 batches of incompletely fermented KO-J w/o a bottlebomb to date. If that makes you nervous, then hit it w/ some potassium sorbate before bottling. If you want to ferment to dryness, then start your yeast in about a quart of non-sorbated juice. Once it gets going, add a cup of yr stuck wine, let it culture & keep adding stuck winein 1-2 cup increments until you get a vigorous & thriving gallon of yeast . Then pitch that... I like lalvin 1118 in KO-J settings. HTH |
|
|||
|
On Nov 24, 11:36 am, "bobdrob" wrote:
"chrismears" wrote in message ... On Nov 23, 7:13 pm, "bobdrob" wrote: hi chris & welcome... can you tell us please: what was yr starting SG & what yeast did you use? did you taking any other readings like TA or pH? also what else besides apples is in the 3 gals you've got going? You can always pitch more yeast...but that could just stall too. More info will allow your question to be answered more thoroughly. regards, bob Hi. The recipe is just a basic apples+water+sugar+yeast (+nutrient, campden, etc). I didn't take any extra readings when I put this one together, but the initial SG was at 1100. The batch is about a month and a half old and has been a very slow product so far - the slow bit I'm not at all worried with. It's being kept in my pantry, so it is at about room temperature all the time. Cheers Chris Uhhhm, if the original SG was 1.110, then your in the potential alky-hol range of 20+ % , or as we like to refer to it, knockout juice! my cohorts & Bobdrob, you might want to recheck your SG table. 1.100 SG is only going to give you 13.4% alcohol, and 1.110 is 14.9%. Chris, I had a stuck fermentation with some Peach I did a couple years back. What I did to get it going was to prepare a new starter using apple juice. Once that was going strong I add small amounts of the stuck juice to this starter over the next three days until I had added in the all the juice from the stuck fermentation. For the stuck fermentation I used yeast that is good for restarting a stuck fermentation. Options are Red Star Premier Curvee, Lalvin 43, Lalvin EC-1118, Lalvin K1-V1116, etc. There are more listed at http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.asp. Also add some yeast energizer per package directions to ensure a strong starter. If you use dry yeast make sure to re-hydrate it properly before addiing it to your starter. Here are some other links you might find useful: http://www.yobrew.co.uk/stuck.php http://www.grapestompers.com/article...rmentation.htm Good Luck, Steve |
|
|||
|
Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe |
|
|||
|
On Nov 24, 10:27 am, chrismears wrote:
On Nov 23, 7:13 pm, "bobdrob" wrote: hi chris & welcome... can you tell us please: what was yr starting SG & what yeast did you use? did you taking any other readings like TA or pH? also what else besides apples is in the 3 gals you've got going? You can always pitch more yeast...but that could just stall too. More info will allow your question to be answered more thoroughly. regards, bob Hi. The recipe is just a basic apples+water+sugar+yeast (+nutrient, campden, etc). I didn't take any extra readings when I put this one together, but the initial SG was at 1100. The batch is about a month and a half old and has been a very slow product so far - the slow bit I'm not at all worried with. It's being kept in my pantry, so it is at about room temperature all the time. Cheers Chris For future reference, over a month at room temperature is too slow for a healthy ferment, espically if there is still so much sugar left. Most likely cause is there is not enough active yeast in the batch, possibly also lack of nutrients. Definitely do a strong starter with a new strong yeast and restart the ferment. Pp |
|
|||
|
Joe Sallustio wrote:
Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78 |
|
|||
|
On Nov 26, 11:46 am, "Paul E. Lehmann" wrote:
Joe Sallustio wrote: Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Same here - don't have the tables on me but last couple of years we got some Zin and Petite Sirah grapes that were over 1.130. I remember checking the PA on those and even that was definitely under 20% - not that we fermented them that way! Pp |
|
|||
|
I use this table: http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm
which backs paul and joe's comments. I have to admit though, I never quite understood how this can be if 0PA is 1.000 and I usually ferment down to around 0.990 Jim On Nov 26, 8:36 pm, pp wrote: On Nov 26, 11:46 am, "Paul E. Lehmann" wrote: Joe Sallustio wrote: Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Same here - don't have the tables on me but last couple of years we got some Zin and Petite Sirah grapes that were over 1.130. I remember checking the PA on those and even that was definitely under 20% - not that we fermented them that way! Pp |
|
|||
|
Why is everybody calling me Joe these days? :-p
As for the 0.990 vs 1.000 difference, basically, you can think about it as the table being designed so that instead of using the difference between the starting and final sg points, you're only using the starting point. In other words, the table is built with the assumption that your wine ferments completely to dryness (because that's what PA means) and gives you the PA values with that assumption. Pp On Nov 26, 1:37 pm, jim wrote: I use this table:http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm which backs paul and joe's comments. I have to admit though, I never quite understood how this can be if 0PA is 1.000 and I usually ferment down to around 0.990 Jim On Nov 26, 8:36 pm, pp wrote: On Nov 26, 11:46 am, "Paul E. Lehmann" wrote: Joe Sallustio wrote: Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Same here - don't have the tables on me but last couple of years we got some Zin and Petite Sirah grapes that were over 1.130. I remember checking the PA on those and even that was definitely under 20% - not that we fermented them that way! Pp- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
|
|||
|
Heh sorry to miss you out. Thanks for the info.
I understand that PA starts with the potential. What I am getting at is that SG and PA are given a common correlation as being discussed in this thread. Yet, SG works on total movement (from initial to final SG). So, what is the difference between a wine with PA of 15 that finishes at SG 1.000 and a wine with a PA of 15 which finishes at 0.990? That still *weirds me out* Many thanks and I hope this isn't too off topic. Jim On Nov 27, 1:04 am, pp wrote: Why is everybody calling me Joe these days? :-p As for the 0.990 vs 1.000 difference, basically, you can think about it as the table being designed so that instead of using the difference between the starting and final sg points, you're only using the starting point. In other words, the table is built with the assumption that your wine ferments completely to dryness (because that's what PA means) and gives you the PA values with that assumption. Pp On Nov 26, 1:37 pm, jim wrote: I use this table:http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm which backs paul and joe's comments. I have to admit though, I never quite understood how this can be if 0PA is 1.000 and I usually ferment down to around 0.990 Jim On Nov 26, 8:36 pm, pp wrote: On Nov 26, 11:46 am, "Paul E. Lehmann" wrote: Joe Sallustio wrote: Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Same here - don't have the tables on me but last couple of years we got some Zin and Petite Sirah grapes that were over 1.130. I remember checking the PA on those and even that was definitely under 20% - not that we fermented them that way! Pp- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
|
|||
|
jim wrote:
Heh sorry to miss you out. Thanks for the info. I understand that PA starts with the potential. What I am getting at is that SG and PA are given a common correlation as being discussed in this thread. Yet, SG works on total movement (from initial to final SG). So, what is the difference between a wine with PA of 15 that finishes at SG 1.000 and a wine with a PA of 15 which finishes at 0.990? That still *weirds me out* Many thanks and I hope this isn't too off topic. Ray Calvert had a discussion on this point about a year ago with another poster. I don't think it was ever resolved. In my calculations I use formulae that were developed by UC Davis. Of course, this does not mean that they are bullet proof. In order to resolve this, I think someone (who actually cares enough - or is interested enough) to actually do an experiment and ferment a wine with a known initial SG and a final SG (both corrected for temperature - preferably with a high initial SG and a very low final SG) and send the finished wine to a certified lab for results of PA. The test is not all that expensive, especially considering all the controversy about the topic. Jim On Nov 27, 1:04 am, pp wrote: Why is everybody calling me Joe these days? :-p As for the 0.990 vs 1.000 difference, basically, you can think about it as the table being designed so that instead of using the difference between the starting and final sg points, you're only using the starting point. In other words, the table is built with the assumption that your wine ferments completely to dryness (because that's what PA means) and gives you the PA values with that assumption. Pp On Nov 26, 1:37 pm, jim wrote: I use this table:http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm which backs paul and joe's comments. I have to admit though, I never quite understood how this can be if 0PA is 1.000 and I usually ferment down to around 0.990 Jim On Nov 26, 8:36 pm, pp wrote: On Nov 26, 11:46 am, "Paul E. Lehmann" wrote: Joe Sallustio wrote: Hi. Is there a special starter I should use to re-start this? Room temperature shouldn't be an issue - it's being kept in my pantry so it is always warm enough. Steve's post already gave you great advice and the correct value of 'potential alcohol' for 1.100SG. (My tables came from NBS so I know they are right.) The only thing I would expand on is the amount of time to give it to get going. Starters need to get going really well before you add them to the total volume. I keep doubling the volume of the starter and let it get back to fermenting strongly. 13% ABV for an apple wine might be a little heavy duty; if this died at around 9 or 10 % I might be happy with that. I show that as 1.022 to 1.029 S.G. bobdrob, I show 1.115 as 19.3 % ABV; I have the book at home that probably takes them higher; I have spreadsheet I made on my work PC. I can email you the spreadsheet. Joe Joe, are you sure of that? I quick check on my program shows 1.115 SG to be equivalent to 15.78 Brix and the PA to be 15.78- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Same here - don't have the tables on me but last couple of years we got some Zin and Petite Sirah grapes that were over 1.130. I remember checking the PA on those and even that was definitely under 20% - not that we fermented them that way! Pp- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |