*1998 Maison Leroy Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (1/5/2006)*

At Nobu Tokyo, with a wide range of foods. (First time I've been to
Nobu. Everyone's gotta do it once, but it had a sort of corporate
feel to it. Certainly good food, but equal or better food with more
personality is available at any number of upscale izakaya joints for a
lot less money.)

Slightly fading red showing hints of maturity. Fairly bright. Nose
shows red fruit - sour cherry and undefined berry - along with some
foresty/mushroomy element plus a bit of Gevery-like earth. Very
forthcoming and open from the start with a pleasing level of complexity
for a basic Bourgogne. Palate still retains a bit of tannin, but this
is pretty evolved. Good acid, some minerally earth, and the slightest
suggestion of soy add interest to a dark strawberry and cherry palate.
Good depth and a fair finish for what it is. Completely ready and
should probably be consumed over the next year or two. This did a good
and versatile job of matching with a wide range of foods, probably much
better than the more expensive things on the list would have.

Posted from CellarTracker

I quite liked my couple meals at Nobu in New York. But could understand
that was revelatory and revolutionary fusion food in NY in the 1990s
would not neccesarily impress in Tokyo in 2006. Plus, my desire to dine
at any restaurant drops quite a bit once it has multiple outposts.

As to the Leroy Bourgogne, while for my tastes the upper level Leroys
seldom seem to be worth their high price tags, the Bourgogne can be a
good choice in a restaurant (or in a store if at discount). Thanks for
the notes.

First of all, that should read "*w*hat was revelatory and revolutionary
"

I have to say, the 1989 Leroy "Les Beaumonts" Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru
that I had on Sat (one of the first wines of the new regime, I think)
could almost convince me that Leroy is a good deal. Oops, 20/20 shows
at $695, nevermind (20/20 has most ridiculous markups in US, but
still.....).

The food at Nobu was perfectly good, just not inspired. It struck me
the same way the food did at the Tokyo Robuchon restaurant. Both
places seemed to be perfectly executed "cooking by the numbers", as if
the chef at each had gone to school in the kitchen of his master then
brought the textbook back to Tokyo and followed it without deviation or
emotion.

I'll never understand those who say soul has no flavor...

I'm not an upper-level Leroy buyer for pure money reasons. I haven't
tasted enough of them to have a real opinion on the style, though I
have no doubts about the quality.

Jim