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Jim
 
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Default TN: TTG#2 -- 10 1990/97 Sangiovese, 2 Champagnes, 1 Old Vouvray

TOKYO TASTING GROUP ROUND #2 -- 90/97 SANGIOVESE, PLUS CHAMPAGNE AND
DESSERT - Cuisine 219 Tokyo (10/28/2005)

Nine of us gathered for round two of the new Tokyo Tasting Group. A
couple of people tasted double blind and had some impressively
insightful comments. Major kudos go to Oliver Mackie for a lot of hard
work and very well organized evening. great value too!

***Can't start without Champagne***

*1990 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil - France, Champagne,
Côte des Blancs, Champagne

Minute bead explodes when poured then coalesces into a beautiful stream
moving up the very center of the glass. Nose starts out very much
closed for the first fifteen or twenty minutes, then opens up into pure
apple fruit, oatmeal, lemon, and mineral. The palate shows a great dose
of bright acidity keeping this young and fresh and balancing the lemon
cream sweetness. Over time and in the finish, there are rich notes of
rising bread dough. As Steve commented, this is not yet showing any of
the honey one would expect from a maturing Salon. Exceptionally good
but still so very young at fifteen years old. Finely etched but with a
lot of body underneath. Thanks Steve.

***'97 First Round -- Less Heralded Brunelli***

*1997 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany,
Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Nose initially shows as almost entirely oak. Only after twenty or more
minutes does the oak really recede to reveal a little leather, a little
earth, and some deep sour cherry fruit. On the palate, the wood also
takes the lead, but there is bright acid and fruit underneath. Contrary
to other notes I've seen on this wine, the strength of fruit really
shows in the mid-palate, leaving me to think that when the oak further
integrates, this will still have a lot of stuffing left. The fruit and
some tobacco come out again on the finish. A little hard to evaluate
tonight and a little too oaky for my taste for current drinking, but I
think this is at an awkward stage right now and that there is a lot
more to come. I voted for wine of the flight based on potential, but
could easily be wrong.

*1997 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo (Lisini) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy,
Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Nose begins with ripe dark berry and cherry fruit, but quickly the
fruit fades and leaves that characteristic rubbery smell that one often
sees in Brunelli. As a highlight, the rubber is nice. In monotone, it
ain't so nice. On the palate, the wine seems tired and lacks any of
the acid brightness I would like. Fruit is faded and thin on the
midpalate and the finish is abbreviated. Another bottle a month ago was
much, much better. I have reason to suspect this may have suffered some
heat damage before I got it and it certainly drinks like it has. Sorry
folks.

*1997 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany,
Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Nose is reserved and still a little hemmed in when poured, but shows
nice small elements of an array of flavors - sweet black fruit, a
whiff of classic sour cherry, some leather, some floral perfume, and a
little wood. With time, these become a little bigger and more
pronounced, but never really explode. The palate is much more active,
with largely smooth but still very evident tannins, a good core of ripe
but elegant cherry and black raspberry fruit, and notes of spice and
tar. A nice balance between elegance and sweet fruit, this is drinking
well enough now that I see little reason to wait. This was the
group's wine of the flight. Based on tonight's showing I might
agree, but a slightly short finish and a little lack of acid brightness
makes me wonder whether the Banfi won't outpace it in time.

***'97 Second Round -- The Bigger Boys***

*1997 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy,
Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico Riserva

Not noticeably lighter or softer in color, but the nose immediately
gives off a bright cherry fruit and higher-toned floral element that
says we're drinking something different. All the leather and tar and
a little darker fruit sweetness are there, but this just has a
brightness and acid penetration that the last three wines didn't. On
the palate, there are tannins that need a little time, but the cherry
core, wild berry highlights, and chiseled acid definition make it
lovely to drink tonight. Don't mistake me; this is not a light wine,
but it remains deft on its feet while the midpalate fills up with a
little darker fruit and the strong finish shows the slightest hints of
leather, pine, tobacco, and wood. I love it now, but it will be much
better with time for the tannins to smooth out and the secondary
nuances to become more than just hints. I think I voted for this as
wine of the flight. If I didn't, I certainly would forty-eight hours
later. Thanks Oliver.

*1997 Az. Agr. due Portine (Gorelli) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy,
Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

What's going on here? A tasting of '97 Tuscans and I haven't
written "roasted" or "overmature" once and have only used
"ripe" a few times! Here we go. Nose shows very ripe and very dark
sweet fruit with some coffee hints. Palate still has some slightly
scratchy tannin, but speaks mostly of dark, dark sweet cherry and
partially dried plums. Very open and drinking very well right now in a
forward modern style. Sure, there's a little tar on the finish, but
this is really about fruit, fruit and more fruit. Not something I'm
likely to be buying, but it did a good job of representing its style
and the ripe, drink-young side of the vintage. No need to wait on this.

*1997 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy,
Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

At first whiff, this shows more than a bit of funk, with a dominating
air of Brunello rubber and wet leather. After about five minutes of
hopeful sniffing, the rubber recedes into the background and leaves
very ripe dark fruits, lots of vanilla sweetness, and a shot of
espresso. On the palate, the fruit is similarly dark and sweet. This is
no wallflower, with the ripe fruit strongly present at entry, midpalate
and on the finish. Yes, there are slightly raspy tannins, but I have to
focus on them to remember they're there. Some complexity comes out on
the finish, with more dark notes - tar, coffee, chocolate - all
wrapped in a little more oak than I'd prefer. Given how lovely the
'90 Riserva has become, I might hold out hope for this to grow into
something a bit more Brunello-like, but right now it is all fruit and
dark nuances. Looking back, I'm just not sure. It never had the
cherry fruit or acid spine I look for in younger Brunelli. This was the
group wine of the flight. (I can't remember if I voted for it based
on sheer current ripe pleasure, but I think the Rancia is the more
balanced wine and certainly more true to type.) Thanks Oliver.

***On to the '90s***

*1990 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti,
Chianti Classico Riserva

In the glass, showing more evolution than any other wine with plenty of
that dusty orange sunset that mature sangiovese takes on. Nose is wide
open and immediately shows lovely light-toned sour cherry, dust,
slightly aromatic dried wood and a bit of floral perfume. Palate has no
hint of remaining tannins, but maintains some structure with a still
bright beam of cherry acid. Every last ounce of baby fat is gone, but
this hasn't dried out yet. That cherry acid is still a little juicy
and picks up some earth and baking spice on the finish. Completely
integrated and holding well, but seems to be perched on the edge of a
gentle downward slope. They've now purchased vineyards, but Carpineto
was still just a negociant in 1990. Oliver and I threw this in just for
completeness and didn't necessarily expect a lot, but this was a
helluva showing from a modest wine among much bigger company. I wish
this hadn't been my last bottle. If you've got it, drink now before
the gentle beauty of this classic Chianti fades. Stunning QPR.

*1990 Terrabianca Campaccio Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Nose shows base note of broad dark cherry fruit, with secondary notes
of dark berries and a little cassis. Oak shows via a slightly spicy
vanilla note, but is not at all overpowering. Fruit is fine and the
spice is nice, but this seems to lack the leathery, earthy sangiovese
notes one would hope to see. Perhaps there is a touch of cedar, but
that could also be power of suggestion because I know what the wine is.
Palate shows some remaining traces of tannin, but they are mostly
resolved. Broad cherry and berry fruit on entry and a midpalate that
doesn't drop away entirely but seems a bit subdued. These lead to a
moderate finish with some tar and graphite. Drinking very pleasurably
right now and the oak has integrated very well, but the sangiovese and
cab seem not to have integrated quite as well. There's a broad,
low-acid cherry fruit from start to finish, with cabernet aromatics and
highlights. They really only seem to come together on the finish when
the tar and graphite appear together. Probably more an issue of
preference than a flaw, but somehow this feels a little schizophrenic.
Blind, I'm not sure I would have been so clear, might have guessed a
restrained and well-made but slightly disjointed Cali cab. My
difficulty figuring this one out is probably clear from my wandering
note, so I hesitate to guess where this is going. This would be very,
very nice if the cab and sangiovese came together a little more, but
I'm not sure this has the structure to get there. Thanks Oliver.

*1990 Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany,
Toscana IGT

I'm not sure why I'm writing a note as Michael McKinney, who was
tasting double blind, nailed it immediately with a comment that this
tasted like sangiovese that had seen a lot of oak. And that's really
the story. Both the nose and palate - all the way up to and through
the finish - are dominated by a very heavy oak character. That's a
shame, because there's a lot hiding behind the oak. The nose shows
leather, earth, smoke, tea, and cherry fruit. The palate suffers a bit
from wood tannin, but shows nice sweet cherry and plum notes
underneath. Has a full midpalate and a finish with (again, under the
oak) a good dose of earthy spice and mocha. If the oak ever integrates
this will be a beauty, but I don't know if it will get there. Thanks
Oliver.

*1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva -
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Brightness. Depth. Purity. Complexity. What more does one want? This is
lovely and complex on the nose, with a beautifully solid foundation of
ripe cherry fruit supporting notes of orange peel, pine, perfumed
exotic wood and warm earth. There's a lot more there, but this is
such a beautifully shifting kaleidoscope of aromas that it would be
futile (and limiting to the wine) to try to name it all. If I didn't
before, I now understand the importance of apophatic descriptions to
the Orthodox. Palate has maintained that acid brightness that supports
all my favorite sangiovese, though in an appropriately deep Brunello
base tone. Strong solid dark berry and cherry fruit provide a pleasant
sweetness to the entry and full roundness to the middle. The finish
picks up some of the aromatic notes from the nose and combines them
with a bit of anise and a coffee and spice richness that goes on and
on. My red of the night and the group's red of the night (though I
could be argued into picking the Rancia). Thanks Oliver.

***Scrubbing Bubbles***

A surprise bottle pulled by Steve to clean up the palate for the sticky
to come.

*1990 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Brut - France,
Champagne, Epernay, Champagne

I enjoy the challenge of writing notes on Champagne, as I find it more
difficult to capture their essence than I do with most still wines.
Occasionally, though, the dominant impression is of a great wine that
just happens to have bubbles. This has a bit of honeying to the yellow
in the glass and a mousse that is much broader and much less pointal in
texture than the Salon. On the nose, it has a central core of apple
fruit, with strong notes of nuts and a pastry element that develops
with time. On the palate, it is deep and pleasantly hefty, but with the
acid to keep it all structured and composed. There's more of the
apple fruit, along with some white stone fruit and plum, all wrapped in
a hint of honeyed sweetness. On the finish, there's a touch of
wildflower, maybe some truffle, and a little more pastry. Again, this
is big and structured and presents like a still wine, but has a
sexiness and opulence that says Champagne. A nice counterpoint to the
Salon, but I might have enjoyed a bit more freshness and bite - then
again, I'm certainly not complaining. Thanks Steve.

***It's very old, but is it wine?***

This was ex-domaine and came through a very reliable merchant to my
cellar, so storage is not an issue. Damn corks!

*1947 Domaine Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray Moëlleux - France, Loire
Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

The very darkest gold tending to brown when decanted. The nose leaps
out of the decanter, but what leaps out is a nose of sweet apple cider
and a little sherry. The nose shows additional notes of toffee and
candied orange, but remains basically a sweet cider nose. No volatile
acidity and no brown fruit elements, but this is clearly oxidized and
doesn't even suggest the Loire or chenin blanc. On the palate, there
is no botrytis zing, no acidity, and none of the fresh honey or lanolin
texture that one so loves in old chenin. Forgetting what it should have
been, it is perfectly pleasant to drink. In fact, I had two glasses.
Some of the best flat cider I've ever had, but not exactly what we
were looking for. What a shame!


A pleasure to see everyone and taste through some very nice wines. I
was quite disappointed by the Vouvray showing, but that was offset by
the overall quality of the wines, two great Champagnes, and the awesome
underdog showing by the Carpineto. Follow up task = find some of that
'97 Rancia.

Jim

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Tom S
 
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Default TTG#2 -- 10 1990/97 Sangiovese, 2 Champagnes, 1 Old Vouvray


"Jim" > wrote in message
oups.com...
***'97 Second Round -- The Bigger Boys***

*1997 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy,
Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico Riserva

Not noticeably lighter or softer in color, but the nose immediately
gives off a bright cherry fruit and higher-toned floral element that
says we're drinking something different. All the leather and tar and
a little darker fruit sweetness are there, but this just has a
brightness and acid penetration that the last three wines didn't. On
the palate, there are tannins that need a little time, but the cherry
core, wild berry highlights, and chiseled acid definition make it
lovely to drink tonight. Don't mistake me; this is not a light wine,
but it remains deft on its feet while the midpalate fills up with a
little darker fruit and the strong finish shows the slightest hints of
leather, pine, tobacco, and wood. I love it now, but it will be much
better with time for the tannins to smooth out and the secondary
nuances to become more than just hints. I think I voted for this as
wine of the flight. If I didn't, I certainly would forty-eight hours
later.

Don't get me wrong; I _love_ the '97 Rancia! I'm just not sure it's
Chianti Classico. IIRC, it's from outside the DOC (or is it DOCG?)..

I snagged a bottle of it a couple of years ago and after tasting went back
for more. As I recall, it didn't really show it's stuff until the bottle
was nearly gone - about 3 to 4 hours after opening. Wonderful, deeply
complex wine. This is what great Italian wines are all about.

Tom S


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