We did a very pleasant garden dinner last afternoon, with some wines
blind and others not. We somehow managed to get good weather!

With pat=E9, olives and artisanal breads:

1994 Bourillon d'Orleans Vouvray La Coul=E9e d'Argent - a dry
Chenin blanc Loire wine, it was showing lots of colour, an orangey
nose, smooth texture and ended quite dry. It was better a couple fo
years ago, but still quite pleasant.

1983 Hohe Domkirche Scharzhofberger Auslese - we so seldom drink
German wines and yet they are so good - this was in far better shape
than many cabernets of the same age. Excellent readily identifiable
petrol Riesling nose, in the mouth not quite dry, but certainly not
sweet, and very well balanced with excellent terminal acidity and a
long finish. Completely enjoyable and in great shape. I picked this
Mosel to echo the final wine of the night.

With Gazpacho (chunky and somewhat spicy)

2002 Thornhaven Gewurztraminer - this sort of soup (more a cold
vegetable stew, really) is a very challenging match for wine,
especially if you forego the easy Sherry option. I chose a BC Gewurz
with some residual sugar to combat that acidity of the tomatoes.
Readily identifiable by the nose, the normal perception of sweetness
muted by the soup, only a fair match.

With Tarte l'oignon with Gruye

2000 Clos de St. Landelin Tokay Pinot Gris - an amazing 14% alcohol
in this wine from a producer I had never heard of was not evident in
the nose or on palate. The nose was slightly Riesling-like, but more
typically Pinot Gris, so I called that one right. The wine was soft but
had sufficient terminal acidity to match with the tart quite well, I
thought.

With marinated Mojo Chicken with BBQ'd marinated veggies:

1982 Ch. Gloria - I chose this as an entry to Bordeaux, knowing what
the next wine would be. The nose wasn't what it should have been,
which gave concern for what would present to us on palate, but no
worries - it was quite full flavoured in the mouth and ended with a
slight sweetness. Much better in mouth than in nose.

1982 Ch. Gruaud Larose - wow - what a difference. A big wine, with
lots of dark fruit and spice in the nose, big sweet entry, full bodied
in the mouth, great concentration and a surprising peppery finish. No
rush here!

With cheeses:

1993 Tenuta Farneta Bongoverno - I thought I'd switch to something
completely different to throw them with this one and it worked as they
were still thinking it might be a rustic Bordeaux. The nose was indeed
consistent with a Bordeaux, although this dry Tuscan wine is made with
Sangiovese - a remarkable imitation indeed. The nose was a bit warm
and definitely a bit sweet, and while there was good acidity, it
wasn't of such magnitude as to provide a clue to the national origin
of this wine.

Finally, served on its own as befits this sort of wine:

1981 Wegeler Deinhard Bernkasteler Doctor Beerenauslese Eiswein -
this wine was only 7% alcohol, and at 24 years of age was in fine
shape. The colour made you think of apricot juice, and the nose was so
complex with hints of caramel, molasses, and pears and honey
underneath. Very well balanced, and also very long. I would put this on
par with any dessert wine in the world, Sauternes included. The fact
that some people don't know any better than to lump new world
icewines into the same category as this, either means that they've
never tasted a real eiswein, or if they have, that they have flannel
instead of taste buds.....this was quite wonderful. Unfortunately they
are also seriously expensive, the new vintages usually topping $100 US
a half bottle.

1982 Ch. Gruaud Larose - wow - what a difference. A big wine, with
lots of dark fruit and spice in the nose, big sweet entry, full bodied
in the mouth, great concentration and a surprising peppery finish. No
rush here!

Great news, thanks Bill

This wine has always impressed, each of my notes on it always stresses the
darkness and extract, goes on and on,

I have three bottles left.

Compare GL with LLC at twice the price, no contest, LLC is dire.

Happy summer
John

wrote:

1982 Ch. Gruaud Larose - wow - what a difference. A big wine, with
lots of dark fruit and spice in the nose, big sweet entry, full bodied
in the mouth, great concentration and a surprising peppery finish. No
rush here!

As always, thanks for the great notes, Bill. As I have only bottle of
this stuff (an early gift from Jean), I rely on your occasional updates
to gauge when to open my own (although no doubt mine is more evolved
than yours owing to its variable storage conditions these past 2
decades). Would you say that the tannins have now resolved, or does it
have more mileage yet to go?

Mark Lipton

wrote:

2000 Clos de St. Landelin Tokay Pinot Gris - an amazing 14%
alcohol in this wine from a producer I had never heard of ...

Note that the producer is René Muré, "Clos St. Landelin" being the
name of the estate in Rouffach, Alsace.

M.