Saturday morning found Jean, baby and myself guests of some friends at
the Williams-Selyem winery in the Russian River Valley for their
semi-annual release party.

2003 Chardonnay RRV ($32)
nose: butter, alcohol and stones
palate: buttery on entry, with a creamy mouthfeel and hints of pineapple

Not my style of Chardonnay, alas. Rather undistinguished.

2003 Pinot Noir Central Coast ($29, 14.0% ABV)
n: bright cherry fruit, with buttery hints and a bit hot
p: slightly tannic entry, with firm acids, more butter and tart
cherryish flavors

2003 Pinot Noir Russian River ($42, 14.2% ABV)
n: berries, cherry, hints of cedar
p: tart entry, deep berry and cherry fruit, medium body, long finish

2003 Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors ($62, 14.3% ABV)
n: dark cherry, minerals, slightly alcoholic
P: rich, dark fruit, slightly oaky, long finish

Of the three Pinots, the RRV was our favorite, as it had great varietal
character and fruit without being overdone. Our friends preferred the
Westside Road.

At lunch (crabcakes, crab salad and crab dip), our friends opened:

'91 J. Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet
c: golden yellow
n: oak and sulfur, initially, turning into minerals and stone fruits as
the wine opened up
p: minerals, apple, lemon

Completely fresh and alive, this 13-year old wine was an eye-opener for
several of us. Jean, who normally objects strenuously to aged white
wine, had no problem with this wine at all, finding it youthful.
Although not profound, it was an absolutely delicious Chardonnay with
more years ahead of it.

Mark Lipton