Sunday Betsy made a batch of char sui (Chinese BBQ pork) from new Gourmet
cookbook, then used part of it for a chow fun recipe than also used snow peas
and bean sprouts. I thought I'd try a Grüner Veltliner with it, but the '00
Brundlmayer was corked, dammit. Next try was the 2002 Hexamer "Quartzit"
Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling QbA (Nahe). Quite the floral nose, on
the palate sweet white peach fruit, though with hints of red fruit. There's
enough minerality in the finish to match with with the wine's name. B+, nice
value.

When I first started German wines, I thought that the hierarchy was absolute,
and that QmP wines were always superior to QbA. Now you might notice that I
drink almost as many QbAs as kabinett/spatlesen(especially as German wine
prices in US have pushed up 30-80% over lastfew years, between increased
popularity- both WS and WA started paying more attention - and weak dollar).
It's not that I ignore the prädikat wines, those are the ones I cellar. But for
everyday drinking I'll take a QbA from a good producer (Leitz, Dönnhoff,
Schaefer, Hexamer as examples) over an equivalently priced Kabinett from Joe
Schmuck anyday. A little chaptalization never hurt anyone. Just my $.02.


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a
good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where
it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy,
and certainly not of consistency
Dale

Dale Williams
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