Hello
The gerontenophiliacs met Wednesday. The theme was St Émilion, as being the
remaining relatively affordable (for a given value of affordable) apellation
in the Bordeaux area.
As a starter, presented in a flute:
[c] slightly oddly colored, darkish, greenish
[n] fresh mushrooms, overripe apples, smoke
[p] magnificent acidity is followed by well-integrated sweetness, sweeter
than a modern brut. There is even a lingering touch of fizz.
This appetizer was a pre-war (late 1930's) NV Champagne from Henri Grevin,
in Epernay. For those of you who do not believe that older Champagnes are
enjoyable - send you bottles to me, I'll put them out of their misery!

Started the tasting, a flight of 5. Colors rather similar in #1-4, slight
brick edge, but not de-colorised. #5 much darker, opaque, but, also with
brick.

1. [n] tar, coffee, all-spice, flowers, yes indeed, flowers, white aromatic
flowers ...
[c] opens witha decided sweetness in the attack, followed by a refreshing
acidity, and bracing tannines - more structure than taste, in a manner of
speaking, a very physical wine
Vieux-Guinot 1964 (1964 was a good year on the right bank)

2. [n] A rich nose of dill, cold cuts, toast, new-ground coffee, vanilla,
and blackcurrantleaves
[p] A quite acidic attack, a well-rounded structure, long aftertaste, sweet
tobacco, more tannic even than #1. A certain bitterness in the aftertaste.
Cardinal Villemaurine 1955

3. [n] starts with a fleeting sniff of white meadiwflowers, then hits with
dill, and burnt rubber - sulphurisation?
[p] alcoholic. Sweetness in the attack, too much sweetness. Gives an
impression of being unbalanced, and falls apart.
Heavily chaptalised?
Monbousquet 1990

4. [n] A wealth of dill, prunes, tar or asphalt, spicy, very complex
[p] While the attack is acidic, it paves the road for a body that is
decidedly perfumed, with a chalkiness that is only pleasant
Figeac 1975.

5. I had this one down as a Pomerol because of its darkness and
concentration. To my mind, it stood out in the group and was one of the best
wines I have tasted for a long time ...
[n] The nose has a wonderful maturity without any signs of approaching
dementia. There is a note of melting brown sugar which translates into
tobacco, lightly smoked pork sausage, dried dark fruit.
[p] It is extremely forceful, with deep concentration of the fruit, yet in
no way unbalanced. While tannines are marked, the integrate very smoothly
with the fruit, and an acidity that comes almost as an afterthought. It has
power, yet it is not some roaring monster, some Winezilla with plenty of
muscle and no style. Rather, it is like a wale, or a dolphin, strongly yet
seemingly effortlessly gliding through the seas ... sorry.
This wine comes, as a matter of fact, from the border between St Émilion and
Pomerol.
Le Bon Pasteur, 1955.
For the rivet counters, Michel Rolland was 8 years when this wine was
harvested. His contribution would appear to be minor.
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6. As an afterthought, Mårten brought forth a bottle of his house wine,
Ruffino Riserva Ducale 1966 (Chianti Classico). They were still using the
Governo method - a second fermentation is started by the addition of
dried grapes IIRC, and not much used after the 60s. We had tasted this
before, but it can take several re-runs.
[n] Creamy fudge, vanilla, liquorice.
[p] A mouthful of tobbacco, sweetness, tannines, some oxidation notes, and a
finale of violets.
What a difference from the other wines. What a wine. What an evening.

Cheers

Nils