A few of us from my tasting group got together for a small casual
dinner at Spoon Thai, one of my favourite places in Chicago. They've
got a terrific menu of Northern Thai food, are incredibly inexpensive
in terms of prices and are very BYO friendly - perfect place to bring
lots of Rieslings and CdP.

The whites:

1990 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Auslese ***
Light golden-yellow colour - surprising given the age. Incredibly
elegant, vibrant and complex - the nose is a mix of slate, white
peach, apple, melon and tropical fruits with faint petrol and smoky
notes. Feels very youthful on the palate with refreshing acidity and
very complex, seamless flavours of white fruits, currants, melon and
spices over lots more slate. A real wow wine for me - the first time
I've had Riesling with this much age on it, and a reason why I need to
buy a lot more than I'm buying right now - so that I can keep drinking
them young while they're pleasure bombs and still have enough to drink
when they're more mature and nuanced.

1990 Charles Schleret Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (the only non
German/Riesling white at the table)
Turned out this was maderised. Bummer.

1997 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) Bernkasteler Doctor
Riesling Spatlese
This had an absolutely stunning nose that kept evolving through the
night with a very slatey character and lots of white fruits, flowers
and some petrol. Silky and medium bodied on the palate with bright
citrus and yellow fruits over lots of slate. Incredibly elegant and
balanced - this and the 1990 Christoffel were the first bottles
emptied at the table, which should say something.

1999 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
Elegant but rather quiet, particularly on the nose which seemed very
restrained with soft aromas of flowers, white fruits and slate over
faint herbal notes and hints of sulphur. Lighter and not as sweet as I
expected on the palate with a little spritz, bright sweet white fruits
and slatey minerals. Moderate acidity and a medium length finish. A
lovely Riesling - but not the blow-away I was expecting, this being JJ
Prum. It may sound like heresy (or just my inexperience with Prum),
but I've found Prum's wines a little underwhelming on the few
occasions that I've tried them - while they are very charming and
enjoyable, I don't see why they get the hype/price tags they do.

2000 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannnshohle Auslese
On the other hand, I can understand why Donnhoff gets the hype he
does. Lousy vintage in 2000 (nobody told him)... and he produced THIS.
Quiet nose at first but it opened up with time to show aromas of
spice, minerals, yellow and white fruits and hints of petrol. Smooth,
round, polished mouthfeel with low acids, nice minerality, spices and
sweet citrus, apple and peach flavours. Gorgeous.

2005 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese *
Very shy and restrained on the nose at first with very soft mineral,
peach and strawberry notes initially - I thought it was a little
closed when I smelled it. Then I tasted it and was proved very wrong.
Very forward and intense on the palate with a very full, glossy
mouthfeel and incredibly bright, complex flavours of strawberries,
white fruits and citrus over flowers, slate and honeyed notes. Long,
smooth finish.

The reds
Or almost a rose in this case...
2002 Ch. Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
This was an incredibly light, clear red colour - looked more like a
slightly dark rosé in the glass. The nose was all Chateauneuf though -
red fruits (although a little light), spice and leather, but the
palate was very light with sour cherries, raspberries and some spicy
notes. No tannin at all and not too concentrated (given the vintage) -
this worked fairly well with the Thai food pairings at first, but the
alcohol really started to show as it warmed up.

2001 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale Les
Hautes Brusquières
Wasn't paying as much attention to this as I should have - the 05
Christoffel had just started to open out on the nose a little more,
and I was nursing the 1990 in another glass. But this was quite lovely
- an intense nose with the typical CdP flavour profile I love -
kirsch, dark fruits, spices and lots of Provencal herbs. Full bodied
and velvety-textured on the palate with lots more bright red and dark
fruits, spice and a savoury earthy character underneath. Went very
well with the slightly-spicy pork and noodles we were having
alongside.

A very fun night and I'm looking forward to our next Thai and Riesling
dinner here.

Cheers,

Salil

"Salil" wrote in message
...
A few of us from my tasting group got together for a small casual
dinner at Spoon Thai, snipped

This guy can really write!: "elegant, vibrant and complex - the nose is a
mix of slate, white
peach, apple, melon and tropical fruits with faint petrol and smoky
notes." I will buy a case or two.

Evan

Salil wrote:

1990 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Auslese ***

1997 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) Bernkasteler Doctor
Riesling Spatlese

1999 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

2000 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannnshohle Auslese

2005 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese *

A diabetic's dream tasting.

On Feb 13, 6:51�pm, Salil wrote:
A few of us from my tasting group got together for a small casual
dinner at Spoon Thai, one of my favourite places in Chicago. They've
got a terrific menu of Northern Thai food, are incredibly inexpensive
in terms of prices and are very BYO friendly - perfect place to bring
lots of Rieslings and CdP.

The whites:

1990 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Pr�m) Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Auslese ***
Light golden-yellow colour - surprising given the age. Incredibly
elegant, vibrant and complex - the nose is a mix of slate, white
peach, apple, melon and tropical fruits with faint petrol and smoky
notes. Feels very youthful on the palate with refreshing acidity and
very complex, seamless flavours of white fruits, currants, melon and
spices over lots more slate. A real wow wine for me - the first time
I've had Riesling with this much age on it, and a reason why I need to
buy a lot more than I'm buying right now - so that I can keep drinking
them young while they're pleasure bombs and still have enough to drink
when they're more mature and nuanced.

1990 Charles Schleret Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (the only non
German/Riesling white at the table)
Turned out this was maderised. Bummer.

1997 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben M�ller-Burggraef) Bernkasteler Doctor
Riesling Spatlese
This had an absolutely stunning nose that kept evolving through the
night with a very slatey character and lots of white fruits, flowers
and some petrol. Silky and medium bodied on the palate with bright
citrus and yellow fruits over lots of slate. Incredibly elegant and
balanced - this and the 1990 Christoffel were the first bottles
emptied at the table, which should say something.

1999 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
Elegant but rather quiet, particularly on the nose which seemed very
restrained with soft aromas of flowers, white fruits and slate over
faint herbal notes and hints of sulphur. Lighter and not as sweet as I
expected on the palate with a little spritz, bright sweet white fruits
and slatey minerals. Moderate acidity and a medium length finish. A
lovely Riesling - but not the blow-away I was expecting, this being JJ
Prum. It may sound like heresy (or just my inexperience with Prum),
but I've found Prum's wines a little underwhelming on the few
occasions that I've tried them - while they are very charming and
enjoyable, I don't see why they get the hype/price tags they do.

2000 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannnshohle Auslese
On the other hand, I can understand why Donnhoff gets the hype he
does. Lousy vintage in 2000 (nobody told him)... and he produced THIS.
Quiet nose at first but it opened up with time to show aromas of
spice, minerals, yellow and white fruits and hints of petrol. Smooth,
round, polished mouthfeel with low acids, nice minerality, spices and
sweet citrus, apple and peach flavours. Gorgeous.

2005 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese *
Very shy and restrained on the nose at first with very soft mineral,
peach and strawberry notes initially - I thought it was a little
closed when I smelled it. Then I tasted it and was proved very wrong.
Very forward and intense on the palate with a very full, glossy
mouthfeel and incredibly bright, complex flavours of strawberries,
white fruits and citrus over flowers, slate and honeyed notes. Long,
smooth finish.

The reds
Or almost a rose in this case...
2002 Ch. Rayas Ch�teauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
This was an incredibly light, clear red colour - looked more like a
slightly dark ros� in the glass. The nose was all Chateauneuf though -
red fruits (although a little light), spice and leather, but the
palate was very light with sour cherries, raspberries and some spicy
notes. No tannin at all and not too concentrated (given the vintage) -
this worked fairly well with the Thai food pairings at first, but the
alcohol really started to show as it warmed up.

2001 Domaine de la Charbonni�re Ch�teauneuf-du-Pape Cuv�e Sp�ciale Les
Hautes Brusqui�res
Wasn't paying as much attention to this as I should have - the 05
Christoffel had just started to open out on the nose a little more,
and I was nursing the 1990 in another glass. But this was quite lovely
- an intense nose with the typical CdP flavour profile I love -
kirsch, dark fruits, spices and lots of Provencal herbs. Full bodied
and velvety-textured on the palate with lots more bright red and dark
fruits, spice and a savoury earthy character underneath. Went very
well with the slightly-spicy pork and noodles we were having
alongside.

A very fun night and I'm looking forward to our next Thai and Riesling
dinner here.

Cheers,

�Salil

Very nice notes, thanks!
I think with Prum the deal is they really don't shine till they have
some real age. And '99 isn't much of a "blow-away" vintage in any
case. . I do think you captured the wine well. I actually don't buy
much Prum, as I'd rather have earlier drinkers for less.

Salil wrote:

1990 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Auslese ***
Light golden-yellow colour - surprising given the age. Incredibly
elegant, vibrant and complex - the nose is a mix of slate, white
peach, apple, melon and tropical fruits with faint petrol and smoky
notes. Feels very youthful on the palate with refreshing acidity and
very complex, seamless flavours of white fruits, currants, melon and
spices over lots more slate. A real wow wine for me - the first time
I've had Riesling with this much age on it, and a reason why I need to
buy a lot more than I'm buying right now - so that I can keep drinking
them young while they're pleasure bombs and still have enough to drink
when they're more mature and nuanced.

Great note, and that last statement is all too true. Start buying in
quantity now so that you don't have to shell out the big bucks later on.

Or almost a rose in this case...
2002 Ch. Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
This was an incredibly light, clear red colour - looked more like a
slightly dark rosé in the glass. The nose was all Chateauneuf though -
red fruits (although a little light), spice and leather, but the
palate was very light with sour cherries, raspberries and some spicy
notes. No tannin at all and not too concentrated (given the vintage) -
this worked fairly well with the Thai food pairings at first, but the
alcohol really started to show as it warmed up.

2002 as you probably know was the year from Hell in the S. Rhone:
torrential deluge, flooding, rot, you name it. Virtually all crops but
the Grenache were lost that year, but since Rayas is typically mostly
Grenache, not such a problem for them. Still, the few wines I've had
from that year were very dilute.

Great notes, Salil, and a good group wines that your group assembled.
I'm jealous!

Mark Lipton

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