The Zierfandler 2006 is made by Johann Stadlmann VII. It is a
Qualitatswein Trocken LW 683/07. It comes from the Traiskirchen in the
Thermen region of Austria. The estate has been in the same family
since 1780. It was imported by Frederik Wildmann & Sons of New York.

The back label states that Zierfandler is one of the oldest and most
unique varietals of Austria. It is described as full bodied and
dominated by fruity acidity with quince and citrus aromas. It is
suggested as perfect with intensely flavored, spicy food such as Pan
Asian and Nuevo Latino. The description of the web site where I bought
the wine claims that there are only 100 - 200 ha of these grapes
planted in the world.

The color was very light yellow. There is considerable bouquet, and
the description quoted from the label seems as good as any. Despite
being a trocken that is completely dry with considerable acidity, the
body is fairly full and rounded enough so that it drinks very well. I
doubt if it would gain much from more age. I rather liked the wine,
and the price was right at US$ 12 marked down from $ 16. I hope Parker
does not decide he likes Zierfandler, or the price likely will go up
greatly because so little is produced.

Interesting note. For the record, the resemblance in names between
Zierfandler and Zinfandel is no accident. It is believed that Zinfandel
arrived in the US in a shipment of grape vines from Vienna to Long
Island in 1829. Somehow, labels got mixed up and the Crljenac
Kastelanski from Croatia got labeled as "Black Zinfardel of Hungary,"
probably in reference to the name Zierfandler which is a white grape.
The rest, as they say, is history.

Mark Lipton


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