Shimogamo still wins for style, but it's being given
a run on the issue of authenticity and breadth.

Sushi Ken just opened near 40th street in Ahwatukee,
and the fact that it's on my way home from, well, just
about everywhere, was a good reason to give it three
tries.

The first time I went basic, scallop nigiri (my current
must-do), a couple of others, an ebi tempura roll.
Decent enough. I wondered if the decor - basic strip-mall
modern with a few maneki-neko and a flat-screen - was going
to drag the place down.

Second visit I noticed the place was half Japanese folks.
Word had apparently got around. Shimogamo attracted
the expatriates, but this crowd seemed enthusiastic and
more relaxed, probably because the price was lower.

I ordered off the menu, a spicy beef. Not bad, but
nothing to cheer about. Sushi was good again as well.

Third time, the charm in spades. As the second visit
was ending I noticed a few things I must've glossed
over the first several times I looked at the sushi
menu.

I got marinated baby octopus (e-dako, formerly only
to be found at Shimogamo, and then only on special,
and here it's a daily thing!), which can also be had
fried. For 6 bucks they handed me a bowl with some
daikon and 8 or ten of the little buggers. Red with
the traditional nutty sauce. Tasty and a perfect
starter.

I also got the natto-maki. Yes, natto, in a traditional
"small" roll with the seaweed on the outside. I'd had
natto only once before, and found it scary, so I wanted
to see if maybe that was a mistake. It was. This was
much better. Not terrific, not so it will join the hotate
on my fetish list. But it redeemed one of Japan's comfort
foods. Next time I'll try the oshinko roll or ume-shiso roll.
The list is littered with things like this.

Hotate nigiri, of course. Two fat slices per finger.
Buttery and chilly, with a dab of masago and a belt of
nori.

And a tempura-squid roll. Darn tasty, tender, still warm.

I also ordered "karroke". Which right after I ordered it I
realized was japanglish for "croquette". No miracle, just
a ball of mashed potato with a little cooked beef in it,
panko-fried. Fun enough. Something for the kids, maybe.
But hey, bring the kids. It's Ahwatukee; they're almost
mandatory at dinner. And revenue keeps restaurants alive.

Shimogamo will still be there for the ankimo and the
sake and the atmosphere and the tone and the occasional
miracle.

The menu goes at least as deep at Sushi Ken. So bring
your swim fins.

--Blair

As I have noted here before, the new Sushi Ken restaurant in the
Phoenix area is owned by the former owner of Sushi Ten in Tucson. I
haven't been there yet, but hopefully it will be as great as S10 used
to be before it was sold. Looking forward to getting some of that
fantastic old S10 chirashi!

Sushi Ken is the new restaurant opened up by the former owner of the
formerly great Sushi Ten in Tucson.

Sushi Ken is the new restaurant opened up by the former owner of the
formerly great Sushi Ten in Tucson.

Blair P. Houghton wrote:

Shimogamo still wins for style, but it's being given
a run on the issue of authenticity and breadth.

Sushi Ken just opened near 40th street in Ahwatukee,


I don't get up to Phoenix very often, but I love the name.

--
Ken Blake
Please reply to the newsgroup

wrote:
As I have noted here before, the new Sushi Ken restaurant in the
Phoenix area is owned by the former owner of Sushi Ten in Tucson. I
haven't been there yet, but hopefully it will be as great as S10 used
to be before it was sold. Looking forward to getting some of that
fantastic old S10 chirashi!

That seals my next meal there. Chirashizushi for sure.

--Blair

That seals my next meal there. Chirashizushi for sure.

--Blair



If you want your chirashi a la werewolf, have the man add uni to it!