After a very half-hearted Internet search, I found a traditional recipe
for Pumpernickel bread that has been sitting on my computer in the
"MealMaster" database since about 1993. It reads as follows:

,----[ Pumpernickel.txt ]-
| Title: Pumpernickel Westfalen Style
| Categories: Breads, German
| Yield: 2 servings MM#: 2356
|
| 1500 g Flour, rye 1 tb Salt
| 750 g Sourdough 150 g Molasses
| 900 ml Water, 30øC/ 85øF
|
| Mix sourdough with a part of the flour and let rest for 5 min. Add water
| and the rest of the flour and knead well. Cover and let rest for 2 1/2 - 3
| hours at a warm place. Add salt and molasses and knead well. Part in two
| halves and give in oven-forms. Bake for 12 hours at 100 øC/ 212 øF. Let
| cool down for one day before cutting.
|
| "Wie man eyn teutsches Mannsbild bey Kraefften haelt." (Historic recipes)
`----
While the list of ingredients is refreshingly simple, the
instructions are too cryptic for me.

I therefore forward the recipe for comment.

Felix Karpfen
--
Felix Karpfen
Public Key 72FDF9DF (DH/DSA)

In article ,
Felix Karpfen wrote:

After a very half-hearted Internet search, I found a traditional recipe
for Pumpernickel bread that has been sitting on my computer in the
"MealMaster" database since about 1993. It reads as follows:

,----[ Pumpernickel.txt ]-
| Title: Pumpernickel Westfalen Style
| Categories: Breads, German
| Yield: 2 servings MM#: 2356
|
| 1500 g Flour, rye 1 tb Salt
| 750 g Sourdough 150 g Molasses
| 900 ml Water, 30øC/ 85øF
|
| Mix sourdough with a part of the flour and let rest for 5 min. Add water
| and the rest of the flour and knead well. Cover and let rest for 2 1/2 - 3
| hours at a warm place. Add salt and molasses and knead well. Part in two
| halves and give in oven-forms. Bake for 12 hours at 100 øC/ 212 øF. Let
| cool down for one day before cutting.
|
| "Wie man eyn teutsches Mannsbild bey Kraefften haelt." (Historic recipes)
`----
While the list of ingredients is refreshingly simple, the
instructions are too cryptic for me.

I therefore forward the recipe for comment.

Felix Karpfen



There's a recipe for Black Pumpernickel in Hamelman's book that has a
more complex list of ingredients (whole rye in various forms, a liquid
rye starter, a couple of different soakers and only 4% total molasses).

I think the more important bit of info that applies and is not clear
from the above recipe is that the bread was baked in an oven that starts
out at 350-375F for about an hour and then decreases over time. He
states that In a commercial oven which would have pretty good heat
retention, the oven could be turned off after an hour. He suggests
lowering the home oven to 275F after the first hour and then turning the
oven off.

"Due to the lengthy bake, a great amount of the natural sugars in the
dough will have caramelized and these will contribute greatly, not only
to the aroma, but also to the deep, almost black, color of the baked
bread....Resist any urge to slice it; it should rest at minimum for 24
hours..."

this is the bread that would have been last-in in a bakery and would
have baked overnight in the cooling wood-fired oven.

He cautions against using anything but blackstrap molasses.

Hope that's helpful.

--
Mary Beth
Orientation::Quilter
http://www.quiltr.com
http://www.fruitcakesociety.org
http://homepage.mac.com/mbgoodman/bread05/

Felix Karpfen wrote:
After a very half-hearted Internet search, I found a traditional recipe
for Pumpernickel bread that has been sitting on my computer in the
"MealMaster" database since about 1993. It reads as follows:

,----[ Pumpernickel.txt ]-
| Title: Pumpernickel Westfalen Style
| Categories: Breads, German
| Yield: 2 servings MM#: 2356
|
| 1500 g Flour, rye 1 tb Salt
| 750 g Sourdough 150 g Molasses
| 900 ml Water, 30øC/ 85øF
|
| Mix sourdough with a part of the flour and let rest for 5 min. Add water
| and the rest of the flour and knead well. Cover and let rest for 2 1/2 - 3
| hours at a warm place. Add salt and molasses and knead well. Part in two
| halves and give in oven-forms. Bake for 12 hours at 100 øC/ 212 øF. Let
| cool down for one day before cutting.
|
| "Wie man eyn teutsches Mannsbild bey Kraefften haelt." (Historic recipes)
(how to keep a teutonic honcho strong) - must be a teutonic Brunhilde's
desire.

`----
While the list of ingredients is refreshingly simple, the
instructions are too cryptic for me.

I therefore forward the recipe for comment.

Well, there is really not much to it - mix the stuff together, let it
sit for maybe two hours**, fill it in bread pans, cover the pans keep
the oven moist - maybe let the baking pans sit in boiling/simmering
water and you should be cooking.

With pumpernickel style bread, there is no dough development, much
rising, shaping, slashing, window paning, stretch&folding, punch down
and what have you. Much simpler.

** two hours prefementation is maybe wrong with that amount of starter,
putting

Assuming you have 100 % hydration in your starter, your starter flour is
20 %, the pumpernickels I figured together from two sources is less
than 10 %. Reason being is the long time in the oven and with more
starter it gets too sour.

(I am not pulling this out of my nose, that's from Spicher/Stefan's
German Sourdough manual - the low starter % to prevent mouth contractions).

Also - the 12 hours don't really qualify for Pumpernickel credentials,
minimum is 16.

Maybe Brunhilde was in a hurry..

Since you are down under and really need all the support you can get for
your rye adventures, the PP can maybe talked into letting it slip this
time;-)


Samartha

Mary Beth Goodman wrote:


There's a recipe for Black Pumpernickel in Hamelman's book that has a
more complex list of ingredients (whole rye in various forms, a liquid
rye starter, a couple of different soakers and only 4% total molasses).

I think the more important bit of info that applies and is not clear
from the above recipe is that the bread was baked in an oven that starts
out at 350-375F for about an hour and then decreases over time. He
states that In a commercial oven which would have pretty good heat
retention, the oven could be turned off after an hour. He suggests
lowering the home oven to 275F after the first hour and then turning the
oven off.

"Due to the lengthy bake, a great amount of the natural sugars in the
dough will have caramelized and these will contribute greatly, not only
to the aroma, but also to the deep, almost black, color of the baked
bread....Resist any urge to slice it; it should rest at minimum for 24
hours..."

Huh - seems to be another spelling error in Hamelmans???

The main factor in browning pumpernickel is the Maillard reaction.

Caramelization happens at higher temperatures - according to one source,
it's 150 - 190 (C), 302 - 375 (F), light brown at lower, dark brown and
bitter at the higher.

Does a bread ever get into that range? Never at the crumb. Maybe on the
outer layer of it's crust and that's where main taste components are
coming from - with regular bread loafs.

With pumpernickels, with getting brown throughout, not just on the
crust, a caramelization temperature is never reached where it gets brown
the most: inside.

That totally contradicts the caramelization idea being the cause for
browning of pumpernickels.

I doubt if a pumpernickel with it's high hydration is ever reaching
caramelization even for the first hour of 350-375F and then declining as
mentioned above.

During the first couple of hours, the pumpernickels (at least mine) stay
pale and slowly turn brown in the last third of the 24 hours of cooking.

From: http://www.agsci.ubc.ca/courses/fnh/410/colour/3_81.htm

Caramelization occurs in food, when food surfaces are heated strongly,
e.g. the baking and roasting processes, the processing of foods with
high sugar content such as jams and certain fruit juices, or in wine
production.

Hardly a pumpernickel steam boiling environment.

Also form the

Q: How is caramelization different from Maillard reaction?
A: Maillard reaction proceeds at temperatures 50 (C), 122 (F)is
favored at pH 4-7, i.e. in the pH of food.


The lower pH with sourdough seems to be counterproductive with Maillard
but, from the

http://www.agsci.ubc.ca/courses/fnh/410/colour/3_82.htm

Pentose sugars (e.g. ribose) react more readily than hexoses (e.g.
glucose) which, in turn, are more reactive than disaccharides (e.g.
lactose).

Well, the gas containing component in rye are pentosans.

Anyway, forget about caramelization with pumpernickels, that's
misleading, as may other publications are.


Samartha

"Mary Beth Goodman" wrote in message =
...
=20
[ ... ]

He (Hamelman) cautions against using anything but blackstrap molasses.

So much for expertise and the veracity of the bake-book writers.

Hope that's helpful.

It should be enough to mobilize the Pumpernickel Police.

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 22:02:31 -0600, Samartha Deva wrote
(mailman.1123558336.14824.rec.food.sourdough@www. mountainbitwarrior.com):

Felix Karpfen wrote:

,----[ Pumpernickel.txt ]-
|
| 1500 g Flour, rye 1 tb Salt
| 750 g Sourdough 150 g Molasses
| 900 ml Water, 30øC/ 85øF
|
| Mix sourdough with a part of the flour and let rest for 5 min. Add water
| and the rest of the flour and knead well. Cover and let rest for 2 1/2 - 3
| hours at a warm place. Add salt and molasses and knead well. Part in two
| halves and give in oven-forms. Bake for 12 hours at 100 øC/ 212 øF. Let
| cool down for one day before cutting.
|
| "Wie man eyn teutsches Mannsbild bey Kraefften haelt." (Historic recipes)
(how to keep a teutonic honcho strong) - must be a teutonic Brunhilde's
desire.


Well, there is really not much to it - mix the stuff together, let it
sit for maybe two hours**, fill it in bread pans, cover the pans keep
the oven moist

I note that yours are wrapped in aluminium foil. What about a
covered ceramic casserole dish (as used for oven stews)?

- maybe let the baking pans sit in boiling/simmering water and you
should be cooking.

** two hours prefementation is maybe wrong with that amount of
starter,

Assuming you have 100 % hydration in your starter, your starter flour
is 20 %, the pumpernickels I figured together from two sources is less
than 10 %. Reason being is the long time in the oven and with more
starter it gets too sour.

Disguised by 150g (blackstrap) molasses?

(I am not pulling this out of my nose, that's from Spicher/Stefan's
German Sourdough manual - the low starter % to prevent mouth
contractions).

Also - the 12 hours don't really qualify for Pumpernickel credentials,
minimum is 16.

This was the other feature - apart from the simple list of ingredients -
that caught my eye (compared to the Hamelman recipe). Is it possible
that Hamelman went out of his way to transform something very simple into
something that is forbiddingly complicated?


Maybe Brunhilde was in a hurry..

If my texts are correct, she may be flogging a dead horse.

My textbooks say that Pumpernickel is geared for geriatrics because it
is easy to digest. They make no mention of other (side-)benefits that
may flow from the consumption of Pumpernickel.

Felix


--
Felix Karpfen
Public Key 72FDF9DF (DH/DSA)

Felix Karpfen wrote:
[...]

I note that yours are wrapped in aluminium foil. What about a
covered ceramic casserole dish (as used for oven stews)?

The aluminum foil method is not ideal - SD acid corrodes it. I got
stainless steel baking pans and they work ok.


- maybe let the baking pans sit in boiling/simmering water and you
should be cooking.

** two hours prefementation is maybe wrong with that amount of
starter,


Assuming you have 100 % hydration in your starter, your starter flour
is 20 %, the pumpernickels I figured together from two sources is less
than 10 %. Reason being is the long time in the oven and with more
starter it gets too sour.


Disguised by 150g (blackstrap) molasses?

could be - never tried it.



(I am not pulling this out of my nose, that's from Spicher/Stefan's
German Sourdough manual - the low starter % to prevent mouth
contractions).

Also - the 12 hours don't really qualify for Pumpernickel credentials,
minimum is 16.


This was the other feature - apart from the simple list of ingredients -
that caught my eye (compared to the Hamelman recipe). Is it possible
that Hamelman went out of his way to transform something very simple into
something that is forbiddingly complicated?

No, in the book, there is actually a story which is behind how he came
to this recipe.


Maybe Brunhilde was in a hurry..


If my texts are correct, she may be flogging a dead horse.

Don't know, never met her.

My textbooks say that Pumpernickel is geared for geriatrics because it
is easy to digest. They make no mention of other (side-)benefits that
may flow from the consumption of Pumpernickel.

More bulk - from partial cracked whole grain kernels. One disadvantage:
destruction of Vitamin B1 by this process.

Felix

"Samartha Deva" wrote in message

My textbooks say that Pumpernickel is geared for geriatrics because it
is easy to digest. They make no mention of other (side-)benefits that
may flow from the consumption of Pumpernickel.

More bulk - from partial cracked whole grain kernels. One disadvantage:
destruction of Vitamin B1 by this process.

That's alright, we drink lots of beer and stout :-)

Mary

Felix