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| Sourdough (rec.food.sourdough) Discussing the hobby or craft of baking with sourdough. We are not just a recipe group, Our charter is to discuss the care, feeding, and breeding of yeasts and lactobacilli that make up sourdough cultures. |
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I've have tried several times over the past couple of months or so to
make genuine sourdough bread but have only met with limited success. I'm looking for any help and suggestions anyone can offer to overcome my principle difficulty: insufficient rise, particularly the final rise. Let me apoligize in advance for the length of this post. Normally, I'd keep things brief; however, I want to be sure to provide a fairly comprehensive overview of what I've done so far. Hopefully, it will be easier to spot the mistakes I am obviously making. I've also given references to the recipes I've used, indicating the books and pages where they appear. I know that many of you have these books so I thought that would be useful. Since these recipes are rather long and involved, I thought I'd try this approach rather than making a long post even longer! g If you need further details, I'd be happy to provide them. As the subject line indicates, I am new to sourdough although not to baking bread. Over the last couple months, I've made two different starters, both using only flour and water. The first was made using the "Mild Starter" (levain) recipe found on page 79 of Peter Reinhart's book, "Crust & Crumb." It was made following the formula without any variations. I used this starter to make the pain au levain (basic) recipe found beginning on page 81 of the same book. Again, I followed the recipe without significant variation. At stage 8 (final rise), the loafs had not come near to doubling in size after 4 hours. They had risen a little, but not much from the point of forming the loaves. I let them rise for about an hour more and then baked them. There was a fairly good "push" in the oven and the final loaves were about 4 or 5 inches high. The oven was a bit hot and there was a small amount of burning on the crust, but not much. Bottoms were dark but not burned. The crust was a bit thick but about what I would have expected for a typical sourdough. The crumb, however, was quite moist, and a little "gummy." It was very dense. There was no raw dough or flour, just seemed a bit underbaked. The taste was good and only mildly sour as expected. My second starter was made using the Seed Culture recipe and then the Barm recipe beginning on page 229 of Reinhart's Bread Baker's Apprentice. I used coarse whole rye to begin the seed culture and then did the refreshments with KA bread flour. The barm was also made with KA bread flour and, up until recently, all the refreshments have been with KA bread flour. During the last week, I switched to Arrowhead Mills AP. I've been feeding this starter generally twice a week or a little less frequently for about a month. This starter seems to be healthy...smells good and shows signs of activity. I generally refresh half of the old starter, doubling it with each feeding. Once I tripled it. It usually remains on the counter after feeding for about 4 or 5 hours until some noticeable activity starts to happen and then is refrigerated. It's kept in a clear covered plastic covered "cannister" which is washed out after removing the starter to a bowl during the feeding process (done in a stainless steel bowl.) The consistency of the starter I would describe as like wet bubblegum left in the sun. g I first used this starter about 3 or 4 weeks ago to make the Basic Sourdough recipe from page 233 in BBA. This recipe calls for making a firm starter from the barm and then using 4.5 oz. high-gluten flour. I used 4 oz. of KA bread flour and .5 oz of wheat gluten (55% protein) to bring up the total protein level slightly. For the final dough, I used 20 oz. of KA bread flour and 1 tsp. of gluten. The rest of the ingredients were as indicated in the recipe. Once again, I followed the recipe directions to the point of the final proofing (step 9.) I did retard the loaves overnight as suggested and then let them rise the next morning out of the refrigerator for about 4 hours. There was no noticeable rise. I baked them anyway. The results were disappointing. There was very little rise in the oven and the loaves were dense and had a very thick crust. The taste was good but the mouthfeel was not as it was much too dense. My third attempt was a disaster and I'm pretty sure I know at least one of the reasons why. I'll describe what I did so you can either confirm my suspicions and/or let me know what other mistakes I made. g The recipe comes from The VIllage Baker by Joe Ortiz. It's the one for Pain de Campagne found beginning on page 82 of that book. The first mistake I think I made was right from the beginning. I didn't make either the chef or do the first refreshment. Instead, I started with second refreshment using my starter that had been refreshed a few hours before. I then followed the rest of the recipe pretty much as is up through the shaping of the loaves. The final rise was supposed to take 10 hours. After 10 hours, there was no visable rise at all. The dough had become slightly more slack but not much else. I let it rise for about 6 more hours which is where I think I made the next mistake. There was only slight rise and I went ahead and baked the loaves. They came out almost like bricks...very hard, dense and heavy. The taste was ok, but generally these were doorstops! They got thrown away. Before attempting another full blown sourdough recipe, I decided to try out the New York Deli Rye recipe from BBA, page 236. This recipe uses a rye sponge made using the sourdough starter (barm) but then uses instant yeast in the final dough. This recipe came out perfectly and produced two large and very tasty loaves of bread. Finally, yesterday, I tried once more to make a straight sourdough recipe. This time I attempted the San Francisco Sourdough from page 190 in The Village Baker. This time, however, I carefully followed the recipe throughout up to the final proof. The only modification was that I used about 1/8 cup less water in both the second refreshment and in the dough as the dough seemed far too moist and slack. Another point I need to make is that all the flour and water were measured by volume and not by weight...I usually measure strictly by weight which is what I did in all my previous attempts. This recipe calls for a two stage proofing (before and after shaping) which, according to the instructions is supposed to take approximately 10 hours or so for both stages. The commentary in the recipe suggests that you split the time as seems appropriate depending on how the dough is reacting. For me, the first stage was about 7.5 hours by which time the dough had rised noticeably, if not quite doubled. It was a hot day here in LA yesterday and the temperature in my kitchen was in the high 80's to around 90f. After shaping the loaves and placing them in bannetons to rise, I loosely covered them with plastic wrap and then a kitchen towel. I also followed the hint to put a small ball of dough in a mason jar full of water to help gauge when to bake the loaves. The temperature in the kitchen at this point was around 75f. After fours hours, there was no visable rise and the test dough was still at the bottom of the jar of water. After 2 more hours, there was only the slightest hint of a rise along with some slackening of the dough and the test ball remained at the bottom of the jar of water. At this point, it was about 2 am and I decided to go to bed. The temperature overnight never got below 70f. This morning, around 8 am, I got up. The test ball of dough had begun to liquify and was still mostly on the bottom of the jar. The loaves had slackened a bit more but hadn't risen much if any. I heated the oven as directed by the recipe, placed the loaves on a dusted peel, glazed them with egg white wash, slashed them, and, after spraying water several times in the hot oven, baked the loaves on a baking stone in the lower 1/3rd of the oven for 45 minutes. During the baking, the loaves spread out a bit and came out of the oven looking more like ciabatti than round loaves. They were about the thickness of ciabatti, too...about 3 inches high, maybe a bit less. After cooling, I tasted the loaves. The taste is very sour and very authentic to what I've had before as SF sourdough, maybe even a bit more sour than usual. Given the extended proofing time, this is what I'd expect. The crust also seems to be as it should; however, the crumb is, once again, too dense and a bit too moist. A few final points. I do use an oven thermometer. My oven is gas, but not convection. I try to preheat the oven for around an hour when I'm using the stone, which is what was used for all of these sourdough attempts (except the NY Deli Onion Rye.) As noted, I live in Los Angeles (nearly at sea level) and, with the exception of the final recipe from yesterday and today, all of the prep and risings have been done at temps between 70f and 75f. Finally, I've been lurking on r.f.s. for a couple of months and have read all the faqs and visited several websites mentioned in posts several of which have been very useful. OK, now I need your help to correct whatever mistakes I've obviously been making. I really want to improve and start making better loaves. I know I have a lot to learn and am looking forward to all comments and suggestions for which I thank you in advance! |
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jeff higgins wrote:
I've have tried several times over the past couple of months or so to make genuine sourdough bread but have only met with limited success. .... looooong story ... Apparently recipes don't do the trick for you. You were successful when you used a yeast recipe and you tried several pure sourdough recipes which more or less failed. Of the books you mention, I have only the Village Baker and the recipe you did is fairly complex over a very long period of time. Also, it appears that you are trying several recipes, one after the other instead of sticking with one, fairly simple and get this going first. If you do one and change one or two things at a time, you can see the effect better. Maybe it would be worth considering this approach? To me it looks you have a starter issue. There are two main possibilities - either over or under (not enough developed or too much), but you probably don't know which way it is going. I think it is helpful to know about the phases a starter goes through and be able to recognize them. With white flour starters it is easily possible to be too quick and have it overdeveloped and then it's a drag. You mention that it's fairly warm where you live. When you feed your starter, can you tell in which phase it was, how it is taking it, when it peaks? My approach to bread is not by following other recipes to every detail, but to get the idea and then make it fit to my environment. I follow formulas. One way for white bread, it's about 20 % of starter to full dough weight (which is about 17 % starter flour in baker's %), 2 % salt, between 60 % and 68 % hydration and fermenting time is 2 + 2 - 3 + 3 hours with punch down at half time. Starter is grown in three steps to target weight by tripling (or doubling the last step to get target weight) always before stage 5 at 100 % hydration. This approach lets the starter determine the next step. I don't know if this approach helps, but sourdough works, that's a fact. If you haven't, you may look at may web page (URL in footer), under References, SD-Definition, there is the sourdough growth curve with phases and under Playing Around, there is the No-Mind White bread, which is showing a somewhat alternative way of doing this. Samartha -- remove -nospam from my email address, if there is one SD page is the http://samartha.net/SD/ |
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On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 22:27:31 -0600, Samartha Deva
wrote: .... looooong story ... Yes, I'm sorry about that. Apparently recipes don't do the trick for you. Not sure what you mean, Samartha. I try not to be a slave to the recipe but to understand what's going on. As you know better than me, bread cycles require you to adjust and, even with my very limited experience, I can see that that holds true in spades for sourdough. You were successful when you used a yeast recipe and you tried several pure sourdough recipes which more or less failed. Of the books you mention, I have only the Village Baker and the recipe you did is fairly complex over a very long period of time. Also, it appears that you are trying several recipes, one after the other instead of sticking with one, fairly simple and get this going first. Of course, you are absolutely right about sticking with a single recipe and working on that until I get it right...thanks for the reminder! I guess I've just been casting about for a decent recipe to work with for my maiden voyages with sourdough. I'm open to any suggestions. If you do one and change one or two things at a time, you can see the effect better. Agreed. Maybe it would be worth considering this approach? Considered, agreed, and accepted as the preferred approach. To me it looks you have a starter issue. There are two main possibilities - either over or under (not enough developed or too much), but you probably don't know which way it is going. I think it is helpful to know about the phases a starter goes through and be able to recognize them. With white flour starters it is easily possible to be too quick and have it overdeveloped and then it's a drag. Thanks, I'll look more closely at that. I have been to your website and it's been very helpful. I'll return and look at the reference you give below. You mention that it's fairly warm where you live. When you feed your starter, can you tell in which phase it was, how it is taking it, when it peaks? Only to a degree as I'm still really new to all of this. I obviously haven't paid enough attention to this important aspect. As far as the weather here, it is generally very mild with occasional hot spells where I live (LA basin.) Normally, my kitchen stays between 66f (nights in winter) and 78f (days in summer). Most of the bread development is done at temps in the low to mid-70's. My approach to bread is not by following other recipes to every detail, but to get the idea and then make it fit to my environment. I follow formulas. One way for white bread, it's about 20 % of starter to full dough weight (which is about 17 % starter flour in baker's %), 2 % salt, between 60 % and 68 % hydration and fermenting time is 2 + 2 - 3 + 3 hours with punch down at half time. Thanks for describing this. I'm familiar with using formulas and making adjustments. I'll try to pay a bit more attention to this approach. Starter is grown in three steps to target weight by tripling (or doubling the last step to get target weight) always before stage 5 at 100 % hydration. This approach lets the starter determine the next step. I don't know if this approach helps, but sourdough works, that's a fact. I certainly agree...not anywhere near losing faith! g If you haven't, you may look at may web page (URL in footer), under References, SD-Definition, there is the sourdough growth curve with phases and under Playing Around, there is the No-Mind White bread, which is showing a somewhat alternative way of doing this. Samartha Thank you very much. I'll seriously work on this using your suggestions. I appreciate your guidance and patience very much. And, of course, I'll report back to the group how things go! |
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* jeff higgins Tue, 21 Oct 2003 at 20:02 GMT:
This starter seems to be healthy...smells good and shows signs of activity. Signs of activity is not enough. A healthy active starter should nearly triple in volume in 5 or 6 hours after feeding, if kept at warm room temperature. I think you are getting ahead of yourself. You need a good working starter before trying to make bread. I believe the best approach for a newbie is to begin with a known good starter. I like Carl's: http://home.att.net/~carlsfriends You can make your own starter but don't waste your time trying to make bread until your starter is at least doubling in volume after feeding. I generally refresh half of the old starter, doubling it with each feeding. Once I tripled it. Tripling (one part starter, one part flour, one part water by weight) is better than doubling. It usually remains on the counter after feeding for about 4 or 5 hours until some noticeable activity starts to happen and then is refrigerated. I would keep it warm, feed (triple) every 8-12 hours until it is showing strong activity (at least doubling in volume). Discard all but about a Tablespoon of starter each time. The idea here is to let each cycle go long enough so that culture reaches maximum activity but not long enough to become very acidic. good luck! -- Steve W s (dot) wal (at) verizon (dot) net |
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 05:49:44 GMT, jeff higgins
wrote: where I live (LA basin.) I read that a home baker could make sourdough starter anywhere along the California coast except the LA basin. He said he never could get a starter going there. For people like that the solution is simple - buy a sourdough starter, e.g., the "LA-4 French sourdough starter" from King Arthur Flour for $6.95 postpaid - which they claim has the San Francisco sourdough organism present. www.kingarthurflour.com 800-827-6836 I chose KA because they have true experts on their staff, so if I get into any trouble they can help me by email. Also I use KA bread flour, so I am familiar with the company. You will have a known product that will work and you can spend your time and energy on baking bread. If you still want to experiment with homegrown starters you still can in background - while you enjoy eating homemade sourdough bread. |
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:40:07 GMT, Steve W
wrote: snip some very helpful advice Steve, Thanks for some very useful advice. I do plan to order the starter from Carls; however, I still want to experiment some more with homemade starters. I've never seen a doubling or tripling of my existing starter after feeding, although I have seen activity (slow bubbling.) Given the hydration level (100%), I find it hard to believe my starter could ever sustain a doubling or tripling for long without swiftly collapsing. I'll pay closer attention, though. I'm going to try to work a bit with this starter on a couple of different theories: it is either not active enough (probable, given your comments) or I'm allowing it to go too far beyond it's peak before using to bake. I'll be running experiments on both hypotheses with portions of the starter, although not simultaneously. In addition, this morning I began another starter using the instructions from Samartha's website. I'll keep this going as a rye starter as his instructions indicate. Assuming this works out, I'll probably try to convert some of this to a wheat starter at some point after it's established, hopefully in a week or two. In all cases, I plan to pay a lot closer attention to what's going on and to document things in writing as I go along. I think this is probably the best way for me to learn. I'm in no particular hurry with any of this. I can certainly work at it until I eventually have some success, whether it's with my own homemade starters or by using the Carl's starter. In the meantime, the experiments will be fun and I can reliably continue enjoying the yeast breads that I already know how to make! g Thank you, again, for your very useful advice! |
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On 22 Oct 2003 16:36:58 GMT, Ignoramus7261
wrote: Not all starters are created equal. Some starters are better than others. It could be that your homegrown starters are lousy starters. Try buying some known good starter that is known for reliability and the ability to survive being dried and mailed. If you live in Chicagoland, I can give my own super reliable starter. i Thanks for your reply. Steve made this suggestion also...please see my longer reply to his post. P.S. While I used to live in Chicago, and I appreciate your offer sincerely, I now live in Los Angeles. |
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On 22 Oct 2003 20:19:29 GMT, Ignoramus7261
wrote: i can mail you some starter... i In article , jeff higgins wrote: On 22 Oct 2003 16:36:58 GMT, Ignoramus7261 wrote: Not all starters are created equal. Some starters are better than others. It could be that your homegrown starters are lousy starters. Try buying some known good starter that is known for reliability and the ability to survive being dried and mailed. If you live in Chicagoland, I can give my own super reliable starter. i Thanks for your reply. Steve made this suggestion also...please see my longer reply to his post. P.S. While I used to live in Chicago, and I appreciate your offer sincerely, I now live in Los Angeles. Thanks for the generous offer. I may very well take you up on this; but, first, I think I'd like to get my footing a bit with the Carl's starter that I just ordered and, hopefully, with at least one of the two homemade starters I have going at the moment. Frankly, in the long run, the most I would want to keep going at one time would be two starters, one rye and one wheat. More than that I neither have the time nor the space to accomodate. I'm also trying to cut down on the number of variables and to concentrate on a single recipe/formula and a single starter (the others are only for backup at this point) until I am able to get consistently satisfactory results. As Samartha suggested, in the past I failed to do that with, I suppose, predicable failing results. So, this time, I'm regrouping and trying to keep things simpler. I'll certainly keep your offer in mind and will let you know if I can use that sample! g Thanks, again! |
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:35:01 GMT, jeff higgins
wrote: Given the hydration level (100%), I find it hard to believe my starter could ever sustain a doubling or tripling for long without swiftly collapsing. Howdy, This depends, in part, on the shape of the container. A while back I experimented a bit with such expansion in a graduate cylinder from a lab. I could get a rise of 5X easily... HTH, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:48:41 -0400, Kenneth
wrote: On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:35:01 GMT, jeff higgins wrote: Given the hydration level (100%), I find it hard to believe my starter could ever sustain a doubling or tripling for long without swiftly collapsing. Howdy, This depends, in part, on the shape of the container. A while back I experimented a bit with such expansion in a graduate cylinder from a lab. I could get a rise of 5X easily... HTH, Ooops... at 100% I should add. -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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Ignoramus7261 wrote:
if yu have one good starter, concentrate on it, do not try to make your own. I have a totally different opinion. If the reason to do something is not so much the final product - bread, but the process which leads to it, it can be a fun and rewarding experience and it changes the whole perspective. That's only one reason out of many possibilities IMO. Also, I find that nobody should be discouraged to make his/her own starter from scratch, especially on this newsgroup. On the opposite, they should be helped. It's much less an affair than generally perceived and reflected here. Samartha -- remove -nospam from my email address, if there is one SD page is the http://samartha.net/SD/ |
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On 23 Oct 2003 03:14:02 GMT, Ignoramus7261
wrote: In article , Bob wrote: On 23 Oct 2003 00:58:39 GMT, Ignoramus7261 wrote: if yu have one good starter, concentrate on it, do not try to make your own. Why not? Because of the difficulty or because it's not necessary - or both? Because of the principle that first things go first. With a good starter, he will be able to bake good bread. Without one, he won't be able. Once he is on track and baking good bread, he can experiment with new stuff without feeling frustrated. To me this sourdough thing is just like any other food. You make it to supply you with nutrients in a pleasant fashion. It is a practical product. You can have fun with it etc, however some useful output (bread) is required or the process is more or less a waste of time. Damn Straight! Take a well-deserved bow for your articulate representation of common sense. |
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On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 23:11:05 -0600, Samartha Deva
wrote: Ignoramus7261 wrote: if yu have one good starter, concentrate on it, do not try to make your own. I have a totally different opinion. If the reason to do something is not so much the final product - bread, but the process which leads to it, it can be a fun and rewarding experience and it changes the whole perspective. That's only one reason out of many possibilities IMO. Also, I find that nobody should be discouraged to make his/her own starter from scratch, especially on this newsgroup. On the opposite, they should be helped. It's much less an affair than generally perceived and reflected here. Samartha The original poster was not attempting to discourage people from having fun by experimentation, and that includes making their own starter from scratch. What the original poster was attempting to do, if I read the original post correctly, is to point out that experimentation is not fun if it never leads to making any bread or leads to making bad bread. Make bread first and foremost, even if it takes using a known good starter supplied by someone else. Now that you have good bread coming in at a steady rate, you can experiment all you want in background. That is what I intend to do - I have ordered a starter from KA and when I get it I plan to use it immediately. Once I get some bread baked with it, I will have the opportunity to continue my kitchen experiments making starter from scratch. Actually it would be advantageous to have a known good starter, like the one from KA, because not only do you get to make known-quality bread, but you can compare it with whatever results you get from your experimentation. |
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