What Chinese restaurants do people recommend in Melbourne?

Hate to say it, but I think the old Flower Drums and Masks of China
have had their day. Does anyone agree? It doesn't cut it any more to
say 'Chinese food is all about ingredients and Flower Drum has fresh
bok choy, beautifully presented'.

And somehow the Good Food Guide seems to recommend Chinese restaurants
with fawning service!

I reckon some *great* places have sprung up recently:

Dainty Sichuan, Smith St, Collingwood. Noisy, lots of family groups,
really fabulous Sichuan food (much better than Post-Deng or Spicy
Fish!). Authentically hot and numbing (good cold dishes too).

Shanghai Family, Russell St. Nice interior upstairs! Good buns,
dumplings and fritters. Interesting vegetable dishes.

Shanghai Village, Little Bourke. Some dishes are patchy but *great*
dumplings and simple dishes like deep-fried beans.

Any comments? Have I just been lucky? Any more recommendations?

Cheers

James