BEEF CHOW MEIN

This authentic Cantonese version of chow mein features fresh egg
noodles, which are fried into a cake that softens slightly when topped
with a meat and vegetable sauce. Be careful not to mistake wonton
noodles for Chinese egg noodles - although they look similar, wonton
noodles don't have the same rich texture.

8 oz fresh thin Chinese egg noodles* (also called Hong Kong noodles;
not wonton noodles)
1 (1/2-lb) piece flank steak
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine (preferably Shaoxing) or medium-dry
Sherry
2 tablespoons oyster sauce*
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
3 scallions, cut into 2 1/2-inch pieces (1 cup)
5 oz fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps quartered (2
1/2 cups)
6 oz choy sum, cut into 2 1/2-inch pieces (2 1/2 cups) or 1-inch-wide
broccoli florets
Special equipment: a well-seasoned 14-inch wok (preferably
flat-bottomed)

Bring 8 cups unsalted water to a boil in a 6- to 8-quart pot, then add
noodles, stirring to separate, and cook 15 seconds. Drain in a colander
and rinse under cold water until noodles are cool, then shake colander
briskly to drain excess water.
Cut steak with the grain into 1 1/2- to 2-inch-wide strips. Cut each
strip across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices and put in a medium
bowl. Using your hands, toss beef with sugar, sesame oil, 1 tablespoon
soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine, 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, and 1
teaspoon cornstarch. Let beef marinate at room temperature while
preparing remaining ingredients.

Stir together remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine,
1 tablespoon oyster sauce, and 1 teaspoon cornstarch with 1/4 teaspoon
white pepper in a small bowl until smooth, then stir in chicken broth.

Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates within 1 to 2
seconds of contact, then add 1/2 cup peanut oil and heat until just
smoking. Carefully add noodles all at once, flattening top to form a
9-inch cake. Cook until underside is golden, 4 to 5 minutes, rotating
noodle cake with a metal spatula to brown evenly and lifting edges
occasionally to check color. Carefully flip noodle cake over with
spatula and tongs, then cook, rotating cake, until other side is
golden, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer noodle cake to a large
paper-towel-lined plate to drain excess oil. Discard any oil remaining
in wok and wipe out wok with paper towels.

Transfer drained noodle cake to a platter and loosely cover with foil
to keep warm.

Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates within 1 to 2
seconds of contact. Pour 1 tablespoon peanut oil down side of wok, then
swirl oil, tilting wok to coat sides. Add beef, spreading pieces in 1
layer on bottom and sides as quickly as possible. Cook, undisturbed,
letting beef begin to brown, 1 minute, then stir-fry until meat is just
browned on all sides but still pink in center, about 1 minute. Transfer
meat and any juices to a plate.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok over high heat. When oil just begins to
smoke, add ginger and garlic and stir-fry 5 seconds, then add scallions
and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add mushrooms and stir-fry until softened,
about 3 minutes. Add choy sum and stir-fry until leaves are bright
green and just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes (if using broccoli, cook until
almost crisp-tender). Stir broth mixture, then pour into wok and
stir-fry until sauce is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Add beef
and stir to coat. Return mixture just to a boil, then pour over noodle
cake.

*Available at Uwajimaya (800-889-1928).

Makes 4 main-course servings.