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at Sat, 27 May 2006 12:00:44 GMT in ,
(Dee Randall) wrote : "Alex Rast" wrote in message .. . at Fri, 26 May 2006 16:23:41 GMT in What are your favorites to accompany red wine? A nice Bordeaux or pinot noir, say. -aem ... In that case you should make a very soupy warm gruel out of coarse cornmeal (such as polenta or hominy grits) and take sips between chocolates. It sounds wierd and off-putting but it's classic and time-honoured. This is what the indigenous Mesoamericans did long before the advent of Columbus. -- Alex Rast Interesting. 1. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans were tasting various chocolates and used the gruel to cleanse their palate between tastes of various chocolates? 2. Are you sayin that the Mesoamericans preferred to use gruel to cleanse their palate between tastes of any one particular chocolate they were eating. 3. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans preferrred to have gruel with chocolate, just as some might prefer it with wine/port today? 4. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans preferrred to have gruel with chocolate, just as some might prefer it with wine/port today, but that it was later discovered that it cleansed the palate. I don't think there's been much research into why this was done. The arriving Spaniards observed the practice and weren't necessarily interested in the detailed theory, and today it's difficult to reassemble from antique texts and modern indigenous practice exactly what the theory might have been. However, it does seem clear that the Mesoamericans of the period did like to try different chocolates in a sitting. I don't think we can assume, necessarily, that they would have had the same motivations for doing so that we might today, but what I do notice is an astounding ability in any culinary tradition you care to name for identifying things that work and things that don't. My point in bringing it up is to note that it's not something that turns out disgusting. -- Alex Rast (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply) |
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Alex Rast wrote:
if anything, to use compound coating rather than mixing any paraffin in. I sometimes see it in recipes (home-cooking). What this would be is the percentage of cocoa solids that was cocoa butter. This would then roughly be an indication of how much extra cocoa butter they needed to add in addition to that naturally present in the beans. There is a very marginal benefit possible in couverture applications, and it would be this: added cocoa butter can be more carefully standardised for melting properties and viscosity. The exact composition and behaviour of cocoa butter varies from bean to bean. But bulk cocoa butter has usually been carefully homogenised to a specification and has very predictable melting characteristics. So the more added cocoa butter you have, the more you can expect your chocolate to behave consistently. So maybe that is why the chef prefers it for coating. This would be as ridiculous as, e.g. replacing a Burgundy Pinot Noir with a Bordeaux Cabernet. Not too bad a switch for my taste, though ;D There are some Californian and Australian Pinot Noirs I love, though. Now, Valrhona did recently introduce Palmira while dropping Chuao - because Amedei has the Chuao supply now - but they didn't suggest it was a replacement. Meanwhile they continue to produce Ampamakia and your store needs to know that they're not serving customers well if they're arbitrarily replacing one chocolate with a totally different one. Well, I wont miss the Chuao ![]() Chocolate has exploded onto the market-visibility stage - it was, I suppose the next "big thing" once coffee had gotten itself established. You can criticise Starbucks for much but one benefit they did bring is increase public awareness of the possiblity that a common comestible can be had in better than commodity quality. I mean this in the most general way - it wasn't just coffee that they helped to spur forward, but in fact *any* food where quality differences are real, because, now that people accepted that in coffee it was possible to get better than the standard fare, they started to ask if that was also true with other things. I actually think Starbucks is OK. I'd go into Peet's if one is nearby, but otherwise I wouldn't think twice to enter the Starbucks. By Danish standards it is good. I do love a dark roast "BOLD" coffee I don't care for there "mild" types. I do know that Peets and Starbucks started as the same, but the owner of starbucks had bigger ambitions for expansion rather than coffee quality. Ther's a Danish copy of that type of coffee shop called Barossa, but they only have one Coffee of the Day, so I can't choose a Bold type. The aged Sulawesis I've tried have been my favourite coffees of all - it must be said that I prefer straight espresso, generally a pure double-shot. Peet's as a brand isn't as good IMHO as some of the brands in Seattle - but ironically the very best of them, Caffe D'Arte, doesn't do varietals. Aged Sulawesi I would describe as "syrupy" - just what I hope for in a coffee. The Yellow Catuai from Brazil has an aftertaste of dark chocolate, you should try it out ![]() Well there I'm not the expert. Fortunate thing too! Wine is one of the quickest ways to break the budget... My wine store has free tastings once a month, so that is excellent ![]() Yes, I've seen his site and discussed chocolates with him a bit too. It's easy to compare notes since we both live in Seattle. The ratings he has are a bit dated now, but it's one of several useful sites. There are several sites with ratings, with varying degrees of comprehensiveness, personal bias, and detail. I am making one with a bias towards complex fruitiness ![]() http://www.sequoiagrove.dk/reviews.p...ate%2C+or+wine I use the same grading as we use for the students in Denmark, the "13 scale". 00,03, and 5 are flunk grades. 6,7,8,9,10,11,13 pass, 7-8 is average, 9-10 good, 11 excellent independent performance, 13 is the unique exceptional performance. (for some reason I tend to give grades lower than 6, but I think I am often given the exams with "bad" students because I am low in the hierarchy and people do not like to flunk people). The tasting notes I added to the database yesterday were done very fast, just to get something in it for my php code. the search criteria are not finished either. It only works for criteria "any". What I think he found in the US on Valrhona is a little different - his problem is that the chocolate wasn't fresh. For some years, Valrhona was one of a tiny number of high-end European manufacturers you could buy in Seattle. However, the problem, back then, is that market visibility was low, and so shelf lives were high. Bars sat gathering dust. In Davis, CA (a university town) they had Valrhona and it was cheap (-er than DK) and good. I bought the "noir amer 71%" a lot. They did not have the single region stuff. I'm not fond of Valrhona Jivara 40%. In milk chocolate there's not much difference between cheap stuff and expensive stuff. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Music, Recipes, Photos, and mo http://www.sequoiagrove.dk "You donīt frighten us, English pig-dogs! Go and boil your bottoms, sons of a silly person. I blow my nose at you, so-called Arthur-king, you and all your silly English kaniggets. Thppppt!" -------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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"Alex Rast" wrote in message ... at Sat, 27 May 2006 12:00:44 GMT in , (Dee Randall) wrote : "Alex Rast" wrote in message . .. at Fri, 26 May 2006 16:23:41 GMT in What are your favorites to accompany red wine? A nice Bordeaux or pinot noir, say. -aem ... In that case you should make a very soupy warm gruel out of coarse cornmeal (such as polenta or hominy grits) and take sips between chocolates. It sounds wierd and off-putting but it's classic and time-honoured. This is what the indigenous Mesoamericans did long before the advent of Columbus. -- Alex Rast Interesting. 1. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans were tasting various chocolates and used the gruel to cleanse their palate between tastes of various chocolates? 2. Are you sayin that the Mesoamericans preferred to use gruel to cleanse their palate between tastes of any one particular chocolate they were eating. 3. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans preferrred to have gruel with chocolate, just as some might prefer it with wine/port today? 4. Are you saying that the Mesoamericans preferrred to have gruel with chocolate, just as some might prefer it with wine/port today, but that it was later discovered that it cleansed the palate. I don't think there's been much research into why this was done. The arriving Spaniards observed the practice and weren't necessarily interested in the detailed theory, and today it's difficult to reassemble from antique texts and modern indigenous practice exactly what the theory might have been. However, it does seem clear that the Mesoamericans of the period did like to try different chocolates in a sitting. I don't think we can assume, necessarily, that they would have had the same motivations for doing so that we might today, but what I do notice is an astounding ability in any culinary tradition you care to name for identifying things that work and things that don't. My point in bringing it up is to note that it's not something that turns out disgusting. -- Alex Rast Alex, your information on chocolate has become a source of amazement to me. I've saved all your postings under "Chocolate - about" but today I'm making a new sub-folder under Chocolate About, entitled, "Alex Rast postings - rfc." Thanks for sharing your interest in chocolate with us. Dee Dee |
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at Thu, 01 Jun 2006 09:43:40 GMT in
, (Michael Archon Sequoia Nielsen) wrote : Alex Rast wrote: .... I do know that Peets and Starbucks started as the same, but the owner of starbucks had bigger ambitions for expansion rather than coffee quality. Ther's a Danish copy of that type of coffee shop called Barossa, but they only have one Coffee of the Day, so I can't choose a Bold type. *$ didn't have a connection to Peets, at least not AFAIK, except for, perhaps, inspiration. *$ started in Seattle as an enterprise of a trio of partners IIRC who wanted to have decent coffee in the city. They were a bean seller primarily rather than a coffeehouse. Then one of the owners decided that the espresso-bar concept was one that could really take off and realigned the business along those lines. Later he also recognised the franchising possibilities, and a star was born, so to speak. *$ really hit the big time about 1995, when they decided to expand nationwide and from there things have never been the same. BTW, you should see the density of *$ in Seattle these days. We are getting to a point very similar to the Shoe Event Horizon described in Douglas Adams' "Restaurant at the End of the Universe" In this case, it would be the Coffee Event Horizon. We'll rename Seattle Frogstarbucks. .... There are several sites with ratings, with varying degrees of comprehensiveness, personal bias, and detail. I am making one with a bias towards complex fruitiness ![]() Be sure on your site that you describe your personal preferences. That way it makes it easier for someone to know where you're coming from on ratings. I use the same grading as we use for the students in Denmark, the "13 scale". 00,03, and 5 are flunk grades. 6,7,8,9,10,11,13 pass, 7-8 is average, 9-10 good, 11 excellent independent performance, 13 is the unique exceptional performance. That's a truly bizarre system. Why did they choose a prime numbering system? And am I given to understand that the numbers 1, 2, 4, and 12 are never used? What you end up with in that case is an effective 10-point scale, which is much more rational. Intuitively most people think on a broad 5-level scale and then on a more fine-tuned 10-point scale. the 5- level scale is the one people think of when asked just to give a subjective opinion - and it pretty much goes bad, mediocre, fair, good, great. (or any combination of qualitatives embodying that sort of thinking). The 10-point scale is the one people think of when asked for an objective rating. Generally speaking this one is also thought of as having some Gaussian distribution, so that a 10 is (essentially) never given, nor is a 0. Actual grading/ranking/rating systems of course use an enormous variety of descriptions, point systems, etc. but generally you can reduce them pretty quickly to something similar to the 2 systems I just described. (for some reason I tend to give grades lower than 6, but I think I am often given the exams with "bad" students because I am low in the hierarchy and people do not like to flunk people). Of course, don't overlook the possibility that you're more ready to be critical. In some ways the comment "people do not like to flunk people" says that. At least IMHO any grader should feel no hesitation about assigning a failing grade if a failure is warranted. It's appropriate for them to be *disappointed* when someone fails, and perhaps seeing this person failing might spur the grader to offer assistance, but (and you'll excuse me for being very blunt) assiging grades isn't a place to get sentimental. On the flip side of the coin is the perfectionist grader who expects far more from people (or manufacturers, or whatever), than can realistically be expected. One needs to have a firm grasp on what effort level is required to reach what quality standard, and not be harsh on people if the quality level that can be achieved with reasonable effort doesn't match up against the quality level that can be achieved with Herculean effort. What I think he found in the US on Valrhona is a little different - his problem is that the chocolate wasn't fresh.... In Davis, CA (a university town) they had Valrhona and it was cheap (-er than DK) and good. I bought the "noir amer 71%" a lot. They did not have the single region stuff. I'm not fond of Valrhona Jivara 40%. In milk chocolate there's not much difference between cheap stuff and expensive stuff. No - it's quite possible to get excellent milk chocolate. Just like with dark chocolate, however, the correlation between price and quality isn't particularly strong, so it's equally easy to find bad expensive stuff as it is bad cheap stuff. But there are milk chocolates highly worthy of consideration. First on the list should be Michel Cluizel's Mangaro Lait. Here is a first - a single-estate milk chocolate. And he's done an outstanding job with it, too, creating a great milk chocolate indeed. At 50% you can't argue with the cocoa solids percentage either. Guittard also has an origin milk chocolate - Cru Sauvage Lait. In spite of the name this is *not* related to Felchlin's Cru Sauvage - a dark chocolate produced from so-called wild cacao. The truth of that claim is hard to judge, however, the quality of the chocolate is impossible to dispute. In any case, back to Guittard's milk chocolate - it, too, has quality that's impossible to dispute. A little lower percentage (45%) than the Cluizel but still very good. Bonnat makes a line of 65% milk chocolates. IMHO the winner among them is the Asfarth which tastes remarkably similar to Cluizel's old Chocolat Grand Lait Cacao Pur Ile de Java (now replaced by the even better Mangaro Lait). Domori's LatteSal is very distinctive, and with a bit of salt has an unusually addictive character. That's right - salt - it doesn't diminish the flavour in the slightest. This one is 44%. Scharffen Berger's milk chocolate may seem comparatively mild at 41% but explodes with power - another excellent choice and surprisingly strong overall. Slitti makes the most intense milk chocolates - the Lattenero line, with percentages of 45%, 51%, 62%, and 70%. Quality and flavour generally improve as you step up in percentage in this line, just as you would expect. In spite of the awesome percentage, the 70% isn't quite as good as Cluizel's Mangaro, however, it definitely shows how strong you can go with milk chocolate. I don't know how many you will be able to find of these locally but they should be available with a bit of determined searching. -- Alex Rast (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply) |
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Alex Rast wrote:
... I do know that Peets and Starbucks started as the same, but the owner of starbucks had bigger ambitions for expansion rather than coffee quality. Ther's a Danish copy of that type of coffee shop called Barossa, but they only have one Coffee of the Day, so I can't choose a Bold type. *$ didn't have a connection to Peets, The story I heard was that Peet's started in Berkeley (Christine Dabney showed me the location). Then the owners of Peet's fought about the future of Peet's and broke up. One owner continued Peet's with quality in mind, while the other owner started Starbucks with the same basic concept but with the ambition for world domination in mind, compromising quality. Although, I think Starbucks is not as bad as its rep. If I gave Peet's an 11 (on the 13 scale), Starbucks would get 9-10. Barossa in DK would get 9 but that is because it feels kinda dirty. I see on google, that Starbucks founders were just friends of Alfred Peet, not co-owners and the link between Peets and Starbucks is that Starbucks bought their coffee from Peets, hmm. there things have never been the same. BTW, you should see the density of *$ in Seattle these days. We are getting to a point very similar to the Shoe Event Horizon described in Douglas Adams' "Restaurant at the End of the Universe" In this case, it would be the Coffee Event Horizon. We'll rename Seattle Frogstarbucks. There's a joke about martians coming to earth and the first thing they do is to look for the nearest starbucks ![]() Be sure on your site that you describe your personal preferences. That way it makes it easier for someone to know where you're coming from on ratings. OK. I see in seventypercent that Hans Peter Rot's taste is very different from mine. That's a truly bizarre system. Why did they choose a prime numbering system? And am I given to understand that the numbers 1, 2, 4, and 12 are never used? Yes, the gaps reflect a larger difference. I grew up with the system, so it is quite intuitive to me. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(education)#Denmark The "new system" is truly strange... Of course, don't overlook the possibility that you're more ready to be critical. In some ways the comment "people do not like to flunk people" says that. At least IMHO any grader should feel no hesitation about assigning a failing grade if a failure is warranted. It's appropriate for them to be *disappointed* when someone fails, and perhaps seeing this person failing might spur the grader to offer assistance, but (and you'll excuse me for being very blunt) assiging grades isn't a place to get sentimental. Some of them are - I've voted for flunk while the supervisor of the group voted for a high grade, and we are talking about students who knew nothing of the topics in the project or from the lectures. Even the equations in the report they wrote were unknown to them. They couldn't even explain the basic principles of the terms. No - it's quite possible to get excellent milk chocolate. Just like with dark chocolate, however, the correlation between price and quality isn't particularly strong, so it's equally easy to find bad expensive stuff as it is bad cheap stuff. But there are milk chocolates highly worthy of consideration. I don't know how many you will be able to find of these locally but they should be available with a bit of determined searching. The Mitchel Cluitzel might be available. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Music, Recipes, Photos, and mo http://www.sequoiagrove.dk "You donīt frighten us, English pig-dogs! Go and boil your bottoms, sons of a silly person. I blow my nose at you, so-called Arthur-king, you and all your silly English kaniggets. Thppppt!" -------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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Alex Rast wrote:
Neuhaus (Belgium) is boring to eat pure, but fine for cooking. The new Neuhaus origin chocolates are in a completely different stratum from their regular chocolates... I've seen some new Neuhaus stuff at the wine store, I should give them a try. Be careful, it's only the origin bars, in distinctive wrappers that look a lot like a sleeve for an airplane ticket, that are genuninely good. Now I've reviewed them: http://www.sequoiagrove.dk/reviews.p...ate%2C+or+wine Name Grade ---------------------------------------- Madagascar Vanille Bourbon 32%: 10 Occumare Venezuela 71%: 11 Sao Tome 75%: 9 West Africa 73%: 13 -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Music, Recipes, Photos, and mo http://www.sequoiagrove.dk "You donīt frighten us, English pig-dogs! Go and boil your bottoms, sons of a silly person. I blow my nose at you, so-called Arthur-king, you and all your silly English kaniggets. Thppppt!" -------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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jacqui{JB} wrote:
I haven't found Valrhona in large, cooking-sized bars here; I see the occasional "eating" bar, but consider those to be too expensive to cook with. I wish I could find the couverture. I am going to censor some exams in copenhagen the 26th and 27th of June. I might be able to bring some chocolate. valrhona vintage origin bars are 29 kr for 80 gram, mitchel cruitzel is 12 kr for 30 gram, 1 kg of valrhona cooking chocolate is 175 kr. Neuhaus origin bars are 35 kr for 75 gram. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Music, Recipes, Photos, and mo http://www.sequoiagrove.dk "You donīt frighten us, English pig-dogs! Go and boil your bottoms, sons of a silly person. I blow my nose at you, so-called Arthur-king, you and all your silly English kaniggets. Thppppt!" -------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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